two canoe catamaran kit

The Fusion 40 "Kit Cat" is revolutionising the boatbuilding industry. This vessel has been designed from the beginning as a high performance cruising catamaran that can be stacked into 40 foot containers and freighted anywhere in the world.

Construction Flexibilty:

By producing this modern catamaran in modules, which in turn fit in containers, it has meant delivery is simple and it has opened the doors to worldwide marketing of the Fusion 40. The cost savings on overseas shipping as deck cargo, is in excess of $40,000.00. Private contractors are available to assist with assemblies to any stage if you desire.

For more information on this fabulous product, or even where the closest one to you is, please click here to contact us .

[email protected]

Category: Our Catamaran Build Kits

Recommended equipment.

Quality suppliers & manufacturers

The schionning team have a lot of contact with equipment suppliers and manufacturers, and hear feedback on certain brands or systems from our many customers. there are many schionnings cruising the world and testing products longevity and the customer service offered by the manufacturer., on this page we will list products and companies that we know to provide above average quality and service. it is always growing, and if your company provides equipment used on our designs and you would like to be included - please contact us., engines & drive systems.

Visit:  https://oceanvolt.com

Batteries, Power Management

LITHIUM POWER (VIC)

Back in 2013 I knew that my boat batteries were reaching the end of their lives, I had been researching LiFePO4 cells for a few years and decided that I should install them. Unfortunatly I was unable to find a local supplier. So Lithium Power was established.

Technical Information

The technical information page is a collection of documents (mostly in pdf format) on the materials and systems used in schionning catamarans. including data sheets, engineering information, strength comparisons of each core material and informative articles from jeff outling the design of certain system such as engine choices and main sheet systems., detailed engineering data for your research, we understand that getting your head around the process of building your own boat, or having one built, can take a little while. to gain a greater understanding of the materials used in our designs, the below data sheets have been supplied by atl composites, and contain all of the technical data you could need regarding the composites we use. in addition are articles or documents written by jeff about certain systems used on our designs and why., all technical information and data sheets on west system/duflex/durakore provided courtesy of atl composites. for more information please see the atl composites website here., documents library.

Information Sheet – CE CERTIFICATION PROCESS

• Mainsheet Systems for Catamarans
• Motor Choices for Schionning Designs
• Weight and Weight Distribution Schionning Designs
• Schionning Designs Sailing Performance and Tips
• Hull Shapes and Performance – Power Designs
• Outboard Engines VS Diesels – Written by Ross McCombe
• An Outboard Installation That Works – Ross McCombe Follow up
• Data Sheet – DUFLEX BALSA for Catamaran Kit Builds
• Data Sheet – DUFLEX FOAM
• Data Sheet – FEATHERLIGHT Paper Honeycomb
• Data Sheet – WEST SYSTEM R105
• Data Sheet – PUMP SYSTEMS
• Data Sheet – MICROFIBRE BLEND 403
• Data Sheet – MICROLIGHT 410
• Data Sheet – MICROSPHERES 411
• Information Sheet – USING FILLERS
• Data Sheet – KINETIX RESIN Thixotropic
• Information Sheet – DURAKORE PLANKS 413
• Data Sheet – DURAKORE PLANKING 414

Kit Materials Contents

Kit materials' contents, so if you order a schionning kit, what exactly is going to arrive see an overview of the materials you will receive, and what each is used for during the build process. fibreglass cloth or tapes microspheres, microballoons or microfibers take a closer look and you can answer these questions., our schionning kits are a no nonsense, common-sense approach to building a boat. we offer great service, fast delivery and access to anything you could need for your boat straight from the supplier to your door. our construction plans and kits are sold with 100% professional boatbuilder support via phone and email, any time you're unsure or just need a second opinion, we're here..

Our kits contain all of your basic materials to build your boat to a faired shell stage, ready for painting and fit-out. We have sail-away costing estimates available for all of our standard designs, and this will give you an accurate idea of the overall cost of your project. This costing varies depending on your level of finish, as you can imagine different options vary greatly in price.

Below is a quick glance at what your Schionning Kit will include and what each item is primarily used for, we hope this is helpful and if you should require more detailed information please don’t hesitate to contact our office.

What do I actually receive?

DUFLEX PRE-LAMINATED PANELS

DuFlex pre-laminated panels are the main and most important material used in our kits, predominantly in the flat panel designs, however they are used in Strip-planked designs also, though to a lesser extent. These panels are 2400mm x 1200mm and are CNC routed to speed up build time on our Wildernes X Series, as well as some of our power designs. For internal furniture, a paper honeycomb core is used instead of the end-grain balsa wood core that is used for main structural areas. The use of this is purely to save weight in the shell and therefore produce a faster, more responsive catamaran.

KINETIX LAMINATING RESIN & HARDENER

WEST SYSTEM EPOXY RESINS

FIBREGLASS TAPES (DOUBLE BIAS)

CARBON FIBRE CLOTH

FIBREGLASS CLOTH

The kit process, building your own boat can be a daunting prospect, however to demonstrate each step in the kit assembly process, we've created this guide for you to study. as you can see our kits are the ultimate in building efficiency and have been streamlined over 30+ years to ensure that you're on the water faster and with less effort., how does it all go together.

The first step to building your dream catamaran begins with a strongback – this is a square frame used to position the temporary frames that will be used to form the hull shape. This frame will be set up and must be square and accurate, a string or laser level can be used to achieve this.

The forebeam is now installed along with the striker attachment fitting, as shown above. The bridgedeck is installed shortly after and taped onto the bulkheads with webs installed, this now completes what is a quite stiff and strong platform to work on.

Now that the bridgedeck is in place, the forward webs and dash will be fitted. At this stage, all furniture and internal work begins, with the main panels left off for ease of access when working.

Material Choices

Schionning material choices, solutions that work best for catamarans & why, our designs are based on cored composite construction techniques using west system epoxy resin and knitted fabrics. but given the range of today's composite technologies, which solution works best for catamarans and why written by jeff schionning, selecting the correct materials, resin choices.

It also fully protects the boat against water absorption and it can not develop the dreaded Osmosis.

We choose ATL Composite’s resin systems for their superior quality, reliability and value for money.

Having worked closely with the ATL Composites team and their products for many years, we know we can stand by their material solutions, and rely on great service should something unexpected happen.

This may not seem important but when working with a material for an extended period of time, the small things make all the difference.

CORES Which One to Use?

• End-Grain Balsa – 150kg per cubic metre
• Superlight Balsa – 94kg per cubic metre
• Western Red Cedar – 360-380kg per cubic metre
• Foam – 80kg per cubic metre

BALSA END GRAIN (150 kg/cubic metre)

Balsa  has very good values and we can produce a shell using a very light laminate. It will be very stiff and very resilient to fatigue.

It has exceptional qualities including very high compression strength, extremely good sheer capabilities and fantastic sheer stiffness.

Compressive strength is the resistance to collapsing when pressure is applied perpendicular to the surface as when pushing directly onto the material with the point of your finger. Balsa is far stronger than Foam (80kg/cubic metre) in compression.

Balsa is also very strong in shear. This is when the core sample is held flat between your hands, one hand slid one way and the other slid the opposite way, when the core tears through the middle the core has failed in sheer. The amount of stretch you feel before the core shears is shear stiffness. To compensate for sheer weakness the core is made thicker. So 13mm Balsa may be equal in sheer to 19mm Foam.

(80 to 200 kg/m³)

There are many boats sailing that are built from foam as it’s mechanical properties are good for boat building.

• Initially one would expect this cat shell to be lighter as it is ½ the weight of Balsa. We do have to compensate for its weaknesses and will then add to the reinforcement the reinforcement on the outside to spread that compression load over more core and need a triaxial type weave to compensate for the veneer content that runs fore and aft on the Durakore.
• Secondly, we need to increase the Core thickness to compensate for the shear value, usually neutralizing the weight advantage.
• We only use structural foam core that is closed-cell and cross-linked.

The end result using foam core amounts to a very similar total boat weight. Professional builders can achieve a good result but usually use vacuum bagging and very good molds to achieve this.

Secondary Issues

Balsa can absorb water. It needs extreme neglect to rot (very unusual). Water soaks along the end grain quickly. It travels very slowly across the grain. We use balsa under the waterline especially because of it’s high compression strength for beaching etc. any core type must be sealed. Damage to all cores results in the same sort of repair. Notice a damp spot remaining when drying out to anti-foul… simply grind back the surface glass exposing the core, dry it out and re-glass – it’s that easy.

Timber cores are cheaper than Foam in most cases.

A light, high tech cat returns a far better (often 2 – 3 times) re-sale than lower tech materials. Often saving $10,000 on materials initially, loses $200,000 on re-sale – a serious reality.

Our boats can be built using Balsa, Foam or Western Red Cedar. Combine strength, stiffness, lightness and cost, with ease of use – it just makes good sense!

About John P.

One Man's Blog

Specialization is for Insects.

CatamaYak: How to Build a Kayak Catamaran

August 14, 2013 By John P.

We happen to own four identical kayaks, we bought the Equinox 10.4 kayaks at Costco, and we started working on ways to hack them to make them even better! First, I hacked a motor onto my kayak , and then I thought I’d give it a shot and see if we could build a catamaran out of a couple of em.

The CatamaYak Concept

When we go out on the water there is usually a group of us. Some are faster than others, and some just enjoy a leisurely time on the lake. We wanted to be able to turn a couple of kayaks into a floating relaxation station and give it a motor so that a couple of people could simply sit back and relax while still being able to tag along.

The CatamaYak needed to have a few important characteristics:

• be light and easy to assemble at the lake
• be extremely waterproof and not get slippery
• be durable enough to take a pounding from the waves
• be rigid enough to deal with the forces encountered

Given the design considerations I took a few measurements and drew up a quick sketch of the components and how I imagined they would fit together.

If you are going to design your own there are a few important things to keep in mind.

• The bow (nose) of the kayak is generally narrower than the stern (rear). So don’t just make the front and rear crossbeams the same length or it will look funny and not perform as well.
• You could substitute wood 2x4s for PVC in my design, but its not going to last as long and its going to flex and expand as it takes on water. Its also going to be a LOT heavier.
• If you intend to add a motor like I did you must make sure that the distance between the two kayaks in the center is sufficient for the motor to turn 360 degrees without the blades hitting the side of the watercraft.

The Kayak Catamaran Parts List

Everything I used for this experiment came from Lowe’s. I’m sure you could also find it at Home Depot or other home improvement stores.

• 3 – 10′ sections of 2″ PVC pipe
• 4 – 2″ PVC T sections
• 4 – 2″ PVC end caps
• PVC cleaner and cement
• 1 – 18″ x 72″ wood board
• 4 – 2″ stainless steel U bolts with lock nuts and washers
• 4 – 5″ stainless steel eye bolts with lock nuts and washers
• 1 – 8′ 2×4 (or a couple of 8″ scraps)
• 2 – 8″ 5/8×16 bolts with lock nuts and washers
• 4 – Ratcheting straps

I also needed a rubber mallet, wrenches, a drill, a set of drill bits, and a table saw. You could do without the table saw by having the store cut the wood for you.

Building the Kayak Catamaran

The first thing I did was set the two kayaks beside one another and lay the crossbeam PVC pipes on top of it. This allowed me to take measurements and make sure my design was roughly accurate.

It turns out that the exact finished dimensions worked perfectly for my kayaks and particular brand of trolling motor (Minn Kota 30 pound unit). See the design sketch above if you have Equinox 10.4 kayaks and want to exactly duplicate this build.

I then cut all the PVC pipes and dry fit the pieces. I used my table saw to cut the PVC, but you could use a hacksaw and do it by hand, or you could use a reciprocating saw or basically anthing with a blade long enough to go through 2″ of PVC. Its a very soft material so its easy to cut – but keep your cut very straight as you go. The pieces won’t fit properly if the cuts are all crooked.

Then it was time to attach the pieces. First, you must start with the rectangular center frame, and you have to be VERY careful when assembling this piece to make sure you get it extremely straight!

I carefully cleaned and cemented each fitting and lightly attached a T union to one end of the support frame. I then VERY QUICKLY laid it on the flat piece of wood to make sure the T’s were pointing straight. After a little adjusting I took a rubber mallet and pounded the T’s on as far as they would go.

You’ll know when the pieces are fully inserted because there is a little ridge in each connector or end cap that won’t let the pipe go any farther. So you don’t need to worry that you put it in too far. In fact, if you follow my design its extremely important that all PVC is assembled as tightly as possible for proper fit and structural integrity.

If done right you can look inside the T fitting and see there are no gaps and some of the cement is pretty much sealing all the way around the tube where they meet.

First glue up both end pieces, then attach the two long PVC supports to one end, and follow up by attaching the other end piece – which will require you to glue up two pipes at the same time. Work quickly as the PVC cement drys fast! And remember – HAMMER EVERYTHING TOGETHER WITH A RUBBER MALLET!

After that you’re in the home stretch. Time to glue on the cross beam pieces. These are the most critical joints so make sure they are very clean and you have plenty of cement. You don’t want these to break on the water! Also, notice again that in my design the front and rear are different lengths. Here is a photo showing just one side glued up.

Once you’ve finished connecting all the PVC joints and adding end caps, you can lay the frame back down on your kayaks and begin attaching the connecting hardware. First up, the wooden platform needs to be connected on top. This serves two purposes. First, it provides a lot of torsional rigidity. And secondly, it gives you a spot where you can put stuff!

I used 4 long eye bolts pointing upwards to connect the wood to my PVC frame by drilling down through the wood and directly through the center of each of the 4 T-connectors in the corners. By using the eye bolts it gives connection points in each of the 4 corners that can be used for lashing things to the top, or could even be used for lifting / hanging the platform.

You’re going to attach 4 eye bolts pointing downward from the end of each crossbeam. These are going to be used for connecting the ratcheting strap to hold the kayaks in place.

The other end of the strap mounting is a U bolt mounted directly on the platform. Make sure and leave enough room that the ratchet can be entirely on top when its mounted securely. This does a couple of things, but most importantly it allows you to ratchet it up a little while on the water if it loosens up, which it will do a bit when it gets wet. I’ve already proven out this point on the Lake, so don’t skip it.

You’re about done at this point! Now if you intend to mount a motor on it you need to add a wood block that will fit it. I accomplished this by cutting two 2×4″s down to 8″ wide. These were attached with several stainless steel screws and an L bracket (found near the fencing stuff in the lumber department) for some added rigidity. I wanted to make sure there was NO flex with the motor so all of the power translated to forward momentum instead of any wiggle in the mount.

At this point you should be done and ready to simply slip a ratcheting strap under each mounting point, front and rear, on both Kayaks and secure them tightly.

We took the double Kayak Catamaran out on the lake for the day and it performed FAR better than I ever expected! The little 30 pound Minn Kota trolling motor was able to EASILY push the watercraft! By the way, you need to really watch the video I did about the single Kayak motor mount in order to see how to wire it up and which battery to use, etc. But even with the little trolling motor battery I used we were out on the lake messing around with the motor in use for over an hour and only used 20% of the battery life.

Not only was this rig able to easily push and steer the CatamaYak, but we were able to even TOW both of the other Kayaks without any issue! Amazing.

A couple of last little things. You’ll see in all of the photos that the wood panel in the middle is exposed untreated wood. That’s because we bought some special textured extremely waterproof paint to cover it with, but I didn’t do it before the first trip out to the lake. We’ll be painting it for long term durability soon.

Finally, if you do this, you’re technically changing your kayak into a home built motor boat. And in Texas, and probably most states, you’re going to have to register it as a watercraft. It costs like $30 in Texas to do it, but be warned that if the lake police come by you could be ticketed for taking this on the water without registration. So make sure you’re covered so you don’t worry about it.

Oh, and be prepared for a LOT of attention on the water! Because no one has ever seen anything like this before so they’ll all want to be checking it out!

So, that’s it! I hope you guys enjoy the hack / build. Let me know if you have any questions in the comments below and I’ll help as best I can. This is a project that you can build in just a couple of hours if you have the right tools, and the entire cost was around $100 including PVC, wood, bolts, paint, etc. So that’s a pretty good value!

John P. is a former CEO, former TV Show Host, and the Founder and Wizard behind Texas Metal Works . You can find him on Twitter , Facebook and LinkedIn . Feel free to send shoutouts, insults, and praise. Or Money. Money is good.

May 11, 2016 at 9:30 pm

This is awesome! I am with Robert on the straps..confused about the role of the U bolts. I thought the ratchet strap hooked back to the platform eye bolt. Please clarify. By the way John, why did you take yours apart?

May 12, 2016 at 10:32 am

I used the u-bolts on the platform so that the base of the ratchets could lay flat against the wood once everything was tightened up. This way when you’re on the water you can use one hand to ratchet it tighter if need be.

You may be able to use the same I look somewhere and put both ends of the ratchet on it. You just want to make sure that you have enough room for the straps to Route Around everything and still be accessible when you’re on the water. It could be fairly disastrous to have anything separate with your stuff on that Central platform. It would pretty much just think…

I disassembled mine because I wasn’t going to register it as a watercraft, and it takes up too much room in the garage for something I’m not using constantly. If we had a lake house I would have definitely left it hooked up. It was great! :-)

December 14, 2015 at 5:37 pm

This is something I have been wanting to do for a long time. Great instructions. One thing that isn’t clear to me is how the ratchet straps attach to the u-bolts. Could yo show a top view picture to make it easy to see? Thanks.

January 5, 2016 at 10:59 pm

Sorry Robert, I took it apart a while back so I can’t take a photo any more. But since the ratcheting straps have hooks on them, as long as you get them hooked into the eye bolt and just tighten them up, they’ll stay! :-)

April 10, 2015 at 10:53 am

Great modification! I have 2 identical Perception Sport Pescador 120 kayaks and this has definitely inspired me to build a similar setup. I also own a Hobie Adventure island and love the extra space gained from the trapoline sides between the kayak and the amas (just like your wooden platform has done). You could also add additional cargo space to the void formed between the wooden platform and the front of the two kayaks from a lightweight water repellent material. Great work, thanks for sharing!

July 14, 2014 at 9:27 am

I wanted to say thank you for posting this project. My son is handicapped and i had wanted to take him our on my kayaks and could not imagine how to make it safe for him to enjoy. This is perfect. We even got a thumbs up from the Vessel Assist Boat Crew on our Maiden Voyage. The stability is amazing even in Lake Washington with the chop and larger motorized vessels. Your measurements were spot on for our boats. High Five! Would love to share a pic. This has opened up a whole new world to a boy and his dog. Thank you!

July 23, 2014 at 11:30 pm

Yeah! I’m so happy to hear that this was helpful! :-)

August 15, 2013 at 8:33 am

That definitely seems easier than I thought.

August 14, 2013 at 2:40 pm

I was going to say if John built it a Catastrophe but it looks pretty good. Cali has large feet or John has small ones. :)

August 14, 2013 at 1:10 pm

BOAT and CANOE KITS USA for StorerBoats, Precut Plywood, Epoxy, Glass, Sails.

JO Woodworks make and ship boat and canoe kits for Storer Boat Plans in the USA. From precut plywood to the works. We specialise in Sailboats, sailing canoes, paddling canoes and electric canoes.

We use quality materials and ship to the Lower 48 states and far beyond.

Our boat kits can be any level you request, precut Plywood Panels, plus timber, plus sails.

For any boats listed below but without links use OUR CONTACT PAGE

Boat and Canoe Kits for Michael Storer Boat Plans

Mini Outriggers for Sailing Canoes and Narrow Dinghies – Allow experts to be more adventurous and learners avoid some capsizes. Outrigger hulls and crossbeam only .

Viola 14 Sailing Canoe Kit – A light 14′ sailing canoe that sails like a performance dinghy – modern and lug rig options

Storer Quick Canoe Kit – a simple canoe kit that performs well and can be built in two or three weekends.

Eureka Paddling Canoe Kit – Classic 16ft wooden Paddling Canoe

Kombi Sail and Paddle Sailing Canoe Kit – A canoe that paddles and has excellent sailing performance. Good as a two person touring canoe or a one person performance sailing canoe.

Oz Goose Sail Boat Kit – A stable, simple and affordable sailboat with excellent performance

Drop In Outriggers Kit – Make a canoe or narrow dinghy into an awesome sailboat or make an unstable boat easier to sail.

Quick Canoe Electric Kit – A light cargo canoe kit for efficient speed with an electric trolling motor or small outboard

Kits – In house PDRacer adaptations by J.O Woodworks

Texas PD Racer Sail Boat Kit – Developed to fit the class rules of the Puddle Duck Racers. A very smart performer with two rig options.

JO Woodworks have been building boats and boat parts for 25 years and building quality furniture for 40. John Owens

What is in our Boat and Canoe Kits

Our kits have all the plywood pieces cut out to shape. 

There are several options:

• Complete boat or canoe kits with plywood components cut to shape, all timber, fiberglass, epoxy, sails and more.
• Foil kits preshaped for the centreboard or leeboard and rudder blades
• Plywood components only kits
• Plywood components precut plus all timber

To Order a Boat Or Canoe Kit or Discuss Options Phone (USA) : 903-894-6293 Email: [email protected] Facebook Messenger: Facebook Message

Our goal is for you to only make simple cuts that can be done with an inexpensive handsaw.

The only exception to this is that occasionally there is one that has to be cut to fit a special location that just can’t be done ahead of time.  These pieces are cut oversized so they can be trimmed and fit accurately. 

We include all the timbers you need to build the boat including any temporary items. Such as spreaders to push the sides of the boat apart while building if required in the plans.

Some of the timbers are cut to length but most are left long for you to cut to an exact fit. 

Why Start with a Boat Kit?

You might ask yourself.  Why should I spend the extra money to buy a kit when I can go down to the local lumber yard and get everything I need?

That is a good question so here’s my answer. 

The simple answer is,  IT GETS YOU ON THE WATER FASTER.  But three good additional reasons below.

1/ Building a boat from scratch is very rewarding and just plan fun!  There are many out there, however, that have never done any serious woodworking so want a head start so the building goes quickly.

2/ Building a boat is a great family project.  A well thought through boat kit will eliminate all the tedious layout work that makes most children bored and lose interest.   

3/ We have already spent the time to tweak the shapes so they fit together properly.   The boats will go together easily and before long you will be painting or varnishing and getting out on the water to use it. 

Joining Timber – precut joints and a simple jig to glue up straight.

If pieces need to be scarfed together due to the length we have taken care of that cut too.  A jig for gluing up the scarf joint will also be included in the kit. 

Labelling all the Boat Kit Components

All pieces have labels on them so you know what they are.  We also include the dimensions on many of the labels just in case a label happens to separate from the wood during shipping. 

Epoxy and Fiberglass

We supply Epoxy and Fiberglass for the comprehensive kit. We can also supply to any level that you want. With or without these items.

Ropes, Fittings and Sails

We can supply these items at reasonable prices as well. Please be aware that while we endeavour to have sails available quickly, at some times of year there can be delays because of high demand.

Shipping Kits Throughout North America.

Our kits are created in a way that they can be shipped by UPS Ground to the lower 48 states.  This saves money and time for you plus eliminates the problem often created by trying to get a large truck to a residence.  Especially if you live in a rural area like I do. 

We work with the boat designer for any modifications that this might require from their original plans.

We Supply Plans or you can buy from Duckworks

Plans for most of our boats can be purchased either with our kits or through Duckworks Boat Builders Supply.  

We do include information for piece locations to ease your construction.  As mentioned above, we will have fiberglass and epoxy kits for our boats that can be shipped to you or you can order specific items for yourself. 

Duckworks is your best source for fiberglass and epoxy as well as various hardware items you may need for your new boat.  Chuck and Sandra are very helpful folks and have built many boats themselves.  So they know what you are accomplishing and will help in everyway they can.

Contact Details for JO Woodworks.

If you need more information, please contact me.

John Owens 870 C.R.3812 Troup, Texas 75789 Phone: 903-894-6293 Email: [email protected] IM : Facebook Message Why Build From One of Our Boat or Canoe Kits.

See our Current Work … … or drop us a line on Facebook.

Our Facebook photos of current work are here.

• Canoe Sailing
• Kayak Sailing
• Dinghy Sailing
• Snark Car-Topping Sailboats
• Canoe Stabilizers (Outriggers)
• Rowboat & Porta-Bote Sailing
• Parts and Accessories
• Boats (without sail rigs)
• Motor Mounts
• Portage Carts
• Small Outboards
• Specialty Boats
• Shopping Guide
• Testimonials

Kayakamaran

One sail rig for two kayaks makes a catamaran!

See  Item 6008  for the basic kit.  For Deluxe and Super Deluxe packages see item 6010 and item 6011 .

Customer Feedback

"Hello,I just want to tell you that I had a great weekend of sailing my kayakamaran!" Ellen (June 2014)

"Hi Jim & Betty,

We took our new Kayakamaran out for a nice sail at a local lake which was totally not suitable for sail boats! But the large Lateen sail still had us trolling right along at over a knot!!   And the few spots where  the wind got down to us we really took off!! :)

Thanks again, Smitty!! " (August 2022)

"Subject: Fun, Fun, Fun!

My wife and I are enjoying sailing with the kayakamaran sail kit. It is a lot of fun. - Dave L." (June 2010)

See the Many Configurations You Can Create With The Kayakamaran Sail Kit

Two different hard-shell kayaks.

Two identical hardshell kayaks.

Two different inflatable kayaks.

See Kayakamarans in action with these video links:

Click  Here for another video clip of the above kayakamaran in action.. 

And  Here  for a whole folder of video clips you can watch.  

More Photos 

Why is this better than the sail rig on one kayak?   (a) More room. (b)  More stable, which also means it's faster because the mast stays more upright, presenting more sail area to the wind.  Consider getting the Super Deluxe Package that makes a Kayakamaran or a sail kit for just one kayak -- use it as a kayakamaran in the morning and a single-kayak sail kit in the afternoon, for example.

Questions?  Email:   [email protected]

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$ 1,249.99 – $ 1,329.99

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14ft Long, Excellent Stability, Dry Cockpit with Scuppers.

Stitch and glue Construction, Plywood-Epoxy, Everything included

• CNC-cut  Okoume Marine Plywood
• Epoxy Resin, Fiberglass Cloth, Wood Flower
• Plan Set and Assembly Manual
• Seat, Foot Rests, Deck Hatches, Hardware
• Plastic Ties, Filleting Tool

• Description
• Additional information

With the purchase of this kit, you will receive:

• CNC precision-cut Okoume marine plywood parts to assemble the boat
• CNC-cut temporary frames
• 96″x3/4″x3/4″[2500x18x18mm] (4x) Western red Cedar or similar for sheer clamps
• 12″x3/4″x1/2″[300x18x12mm] (±20x) Western Red Cedar or similar for cleats
• 4″x1-1/2″x1-1/2″[100x38x38mm] (4x) Western Red Cedar or similar for scuppers
• 1 gallon [4l] of epoxy laminating resin
• 1/2 gallon [2l] 2:1 epoxy-activator
• 5Qt [5l] of wood flour
• 10 yards [9m] of 4oz/sq.yd. Fiberglass cloth
• 40yd [36m] 6oz cloth tape x 2″wide
• 10ft [3m] carbon tow
• Seat and backrest.  You choice of basic or premium (select at check out).  Kayak shown in pictures with Premium Seat
• Harmony keepers foot braces (or equivalent, depending upon availability) NOTE: Braces shown on picture are not the ones that come with the kit
• 6″ Hatch Cover Deck Plate (2x)
• Nylon webbing, bungee chord and hardware
• Plan set (excluding full-size templates)
• Assembly manual
• BYD bow stickers

What is NOT included in the kit:  Varnish and paint, as this varies by builder’s preference

*We cut the F1430 kits on demand, so kindly allow us two weeks from purchase date to get your kit assembled and ready for shipping, or contact us to discuss your specific timeline requirements.

**The shipping charge applied at check-out is only an estimate intended to speed up the checkout process and is the amount we’ll hold on your credit card, but we’ll only charge you the actual shipping charge + $5 for S&H, once this is determined, either via final capture or refund.  Prices and kit content can change without notice.  Contact us for a precise shipping quote before ordering. Shipping fees are out of our control, it is therefore understood that shipping price could potentially be higher than the amount held on credit card.   In this case, we will contact you to validate before applying any charge to your CC.

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James Wharram Designs

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Mana 24 - self-assembly 'cat-kit', wharram's first kit boat.

Introducing the CNC-cut self-build 'Cat Kit', a trailable family camping boat. All plywood parts are pre-cut - just take it out of the box and assemble it yourself! Keep it at home, trail it and sail it anywhere. MANA is the Polynesian word for 'spirit' given to an object by its maker or the person that uses it.

An Economical Way To Enjoy Sailing

Due to the present period of financial austerity and increasingly high marina costs, a large number of would-be sailors are having a hard time financing the dream of sailing their own boat.

However, there is an economical way to enjoy sailing, by building your own small lightweight boat, keeping it at home and trailing it to the waters you want to sail in , chasing the good weather. This gives the opportunity to explore many more sailing areas than if based on a permanent mooring and at a much lower cost.

In designing the MANA, we explored this idea and looked sideways into the world of camping and have combined the innovative CNC cut "flat pack" boat-building concept with the philosophy of outdoor living to create the unique MANA camper-sailer, specifically designed for trailer sailing.

All these ideas have come together, resulting in the new MANA 24 design, a catamaran specifically designed for trailer sailing. The MANA kit is sold with all the plywood cut out by CNC cutter , so building the boat at home will be a bit like assembling a flat-pack . All the parts slot together perfectly so a hull can take shape in a day.

Building from such a kit takes away the worry of measuring and cutting all the boat parts, which can be quite daunting to many first time builders and saves a lot of time in the early stages of building. As she is built from a pre-cut kit, we have been able to give the Mana more complex and beautiful shaping , giving her more interior volume than the Tiki designs. During construction all the kit parts slot together and are locked with wooden wedges, so no room for error. Even all the stitch holes (for fastening joints with cable ties) are drilled and lines scribed where to glue on bearers and stringers.

MANA's 23'6" hull length has a special significance for James Wharram . In 1956 he made the first successful catamaran voyage across the Atlantic in his first catamaran, the 'Tangaroa', also 23'6" long.

In trailer/sailer design every increase in length equals harder launching and recovery work. At 23'6"- 7.15m hull length MANA 24 sits between our TIKI 21 and TIKI 26 designs (both very popular trailer sailers), with easier launching and handling like the smaller TIKI 21, but an interior space close to that of the Tiki 26 . Her new chined hullshape gives more width for the bunks, which are placed aft where the hulls are widest, and where there is least motion.

For speedy assembly the hulls and beams of the MANA are connected with quick-fit webbing straps with over-centre buckles, which are very strong and much easier to fit than bolts.

With the main mast of the MANA placed well forward the platform gives ample flat space for a low cost dome tent or a custom-made pramhood tent, which can double as spray hood when sailing. Adapting camping habits to a sailing lifestyle gives wider sailing opportunities at minimum cost and lots more family fun!

MANA uses the well proven Wharram Wingsail rig in a new Catrig configuration. The Wingsail rig is a modern version of a high aspect Dutch style gaff rig, sleeved round the mast for maximum aerodynamic efficiency.

In this new Catrig configuration the mainsail gives the drive with a very clean leading edge. The small mizzen aids with balance, steering and tacking . Having no jib, there is no need for a very tight forestay. The standing rigging uses the latest dyneema rope, which is light and easily set up. The mizzenmast can be used as sheer pole for single-handed assembly.

Mana 24 Design Data

What You Get In A Mana Kit

CNC cut plywood parts, timber parts, epoxy materials, fastenings, ropes, blocks and fittings are all included in the kit. See the price list .

Transporting The Mana Kit

The entire kit can fit and be transported in the back of a van with ease. The van in the photos is a VW Transporter.

Boat In A Box

Your Mana 24 kit will arrive in a box like this!

We're Taking Orders

The Mana 24 kit is now available and we are taking orders. We will be handling each order individually due to different options and shipping costs, so if you would like to discuss ordering a Mana kit, please contact us , we will then be able to work out shipping details to your building site and supply you with a pro forma invoice.

Cost of complete kit, including all fittings, masts and sails is £12,750 (if bought complete, separate costs below). All prices excluding VAT, and excluding shipping costs (shipped FOD, Freight on Delivery).

If your budget is tight, it is possible to buy the kit in two stages , buying masts, sails, rigging, ropes and fittings later. Or you can buy just the basic Boatbuilding Kit which includes the building rights and plans, and source fittings, rope and fasteners yourself as all are detailed in the plans.

1. Boatbuilding Kit - Total Cost £9,975

• Complete set of plywood parts to build two hulls, crossbeams and motorbox, CNC precision cut. All plywood Robbins Elite BS1088 Marine Plywood, guaranteed for 15 years, manufactured from selected Gaboon (Okoume) veneers throughout
• Platform panels, 2 large, 2 small, prefabricated from 40mm plastic honeycomb, glassed top and bottom
• Small hardwood timber parts, CNC cut to size, ready for final shaping, sanding and fitting
• Perspex windows and washboards, CNC precision cut
• WEST Epoxy kit, includes all resins * , pumps, fillers and glass cloth, mixing sticks, 1 box vinyl gloves, 1 rubber squeegee
• Sikaflex 295 for fitting windows
• Sikaflex 221 for bedding fittings etc
• Neoprene rubber for sealing hatches
• Rubber for padding beam mounts
• Gripfast nails, stainless steel machine screws, cable-ties and roller-sleeves (to be cut into paint/epoxy-pads), 2 paint-pad handles.
• Douglas Fir timber for stringers, framing etc and hardwood for hatch coamings (mahogany) and keel strips (iroko), all in long lengths to be cut to size by builder *

* N.B. For overseas customers Boatbuilding Kit should be bought excluding the long lengths of Douglas Fir and hardwood timber for easier transport. Cost deducted by £1100. We can also not include the epoxy resin and hardener as these are hazardous products with freight restrictions. You will need to buy these through your local dealer. Cost for these deducted by £900. (i.e. Cost of Boatbuilding kit excl. long timber and epoxy £7,975).

2. Blocks, Fittings And Rope Kit - Total Cost £1,200

• All blocks, cleats, shackles and other fittings to rig the Mana
• All ropes for sheets, halyards, lanyards and standing rigging (Dyneema)
• Stainless steel buckles and webbing straps for crossbeams
• Shockcord for tillers and hatches
• Aluminium boathook/mizzen boom
• Set of fittings for both mastheads and hinging unit for base of main mast, fabricated from aluminium and stainless steel

3. Sails, Made By Jeckells Of Wroxham - Total Cost £1,530 (Specify Colour)

• Mainsail with two reefs
• Mizzen with 1 reef

4. Masts * - Total Cost £510

• Aluminium mast tubes. 4 ½” OD x 10swg for main mast, 2 pieces @ 5m and 2.30 long, plus sleeve. 3” OD x 10swg for mizzen, 4m long.

* N.B. For overseas customers we suggest you source your mast tubes locally as shipping long lengths will be costly.

Building Time Estimate

We kept precise building hours while building the prototype. We built to a high quality standard with excellent finish, i.e. a lot of time spent on precision sanding, fairing etc. Building time in the early stages of building is greatly reduced by the CNC cut plywood parts, which takes away all the worry of measuring and cutting and lets the builder assemble the hulls very quickly.

Summing Up Of The Times We Took

• All construction work; hulls, beams, gaffs, tillers, hatches, including epoxy coating all interior surfaces: approx. 500 hours
• All exterior glassing work; hulls and crossbeams: 90 hours
• All sanding of glassed surfaces: 45 hours
• Painting, two coats epoxy primer, two coats 2-pack topcoat incl. non-slip decks and antifouling: approx. 80 hours

N.B. What should be noted is how many hours it takes to do sanding and painting compared to the building time. Glassing, sanding, fairing and painting add up to 30% of the total building time. On our basic building time estimates in our Design Book, final finishing and painting are not taken into account. Working from a kit does save many hours.

Transport Sizes And Weights

• The plywood kit, including made-up platform panels will be in labeled bagged bundles measuring in total approx. 2.5m x 1.20m x 0.3m and weighs around 300kg
• Fastenings, blocks, fittings and ropes, 1 box, approx. 60 x 40 x 30cm . Weight 25kg
• The WEST epoxy kit measures approx. 1.3m x 0.6m x 0.45m and weighs around 100kg

For overseas transport the above items have to be packaged in one special wooden pallet crate - 2.62m x 1.29m x 0.77m - at additional cost of £250.

• Timber will be a long parcel (around 3.5m - 4m long) and will weigh around 50-60kg
• Aluminium masts, in max. 5m long sections , weight incl. fittings 40kg

For overseas customers we advise them to source the timber and masts locally.

You will be able to collect the complete kit from Cornwall, UK yourself on a trailer or in a van saving on a lot of shipping costs and paperwork.

Interested in building a Mana? Contact us now:

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12′ Outrigger Kit – 2 sided

$ 1,230.00

Outriggers to stabilize your kayak or canoe. Expandacraft Outrigger Kits come in 2 lengths for one or  two sides.

10 in stock

Description

Additional information.

• Reviews (0)

This 12 foot outrigger kit for 2 sides includes:

• 4 bow/stern sections
• 4 low or high risers
• 2 six ft aluminum cross tubes with holes drilled on both sides
• 4 nylon bolts and cotter pins (quick release system)
• 4 plastic end caps for aluminum crossbeams
• 4 wood keeper pegs

Option to upgrade to 8 foot or 8 foot spliced cross tubes available at an additional cost.

Does NOT include decking or anything shown on the decks in photos. Aluminum decking is available for additional purchase at $85/plank measuring 6′ x 11.5″. We have seen customers rig 1-3 decks on one side depending on their set up. Please specify in your order request form if you would like to use Expandacraft deck planks and how many you want.

Note: Since kayaks and canoes come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, we recommend you read our How to choose the right outrigger for me post and watch related videos:  here  and  here .

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Catamaran SUP Frame

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NEW PRODUCT - COMING AROUND OCTOBER

• Description
• More Pictures
• Attachments

Inflatable Platform to Join 2 SUPs into Catamaran.

Convert 2 paddle boards into an electric catamaran..

Transform Your Paddle Boards into a Sleek Catamaran with Our Inflatable Platform!

Elevate your water adventures by converting two SUP paddle boards into a powerful, electric catamaran. Our upgraded inflatable drop-stitch platform replaces the old aluminum frame, offering quicker assembly and disassembly without sacrificing functionality.

Perfect for leisurely cruising or fishing, this inflatable platform is designed to seamlessly join two paddle boards, creating a stable, catamaran-style vessel. It's incredibly easy to inflate, install, and deflate, and comes equipped with a folding plywood transom to accommodate an electric trolling motor.

Key Features:

• Versatile Seating: The platform includes two built-in back supports, but for those who prefer a custom setup, you can easily remove them and use your favorite beach chairs instead.
• Stability & Capacity: Ideal for two people, yet capable of supporting up to four, thanks to the impressive buoyancy of the combined paddle boards and platform. Once fully assembled, it’s nearly impossible to flip over and extremely rigid.
• Secure Attachment: The platform attaches to the paddle boards using provided tie-down straps, which run under the hulls and secure to D-rings on the platform. A foam layer on the bottom ensures a non-slip experience.
• Enhanced Performance: For added rigidity, inflate the paddle boards to 60-80%, secure the tie-downs, and then finish inflating. This minimizes any movement, ensuring smooth performance even over waves.
• Customization Options: Install an electric trolling motor (up to 1HP) on the motor mount, and secure a cooler or battery in the middle using the provided tie-downs or bungee cords.

Whether you're seeking a relaxing cruise or a sturdy fishing platform, this inflatable platform transforms your paddle boards into the ultimate catamaran experience.

SPECIFICATIONS:

• 1100 denier, UV and abrasion resistant 9mm PVC Material.
• 80mm drop stitch, same as air floors in inflatable dinghy boats.
• Motor mount for trolling motor.
• Built in back supports for comfortable sitting.
• Scotty mount for rod holder or other accessories installation.
• Multiple handles for easy carry.
• 2 valves for faster deflation. 

PRODUCT DIMENSIONS

• Approx Length: 40"
• Approx Width: 60"
• Thickness: 4"
• Chair width: 18"
• WEIGHT: approx 25 lbs
• MATERIAL: 1100 denier UV resistant PVC
• MAXIMUM CAPACITY: 2 - 4 passengers.
• INCLUDED: hand pump and all straps to install over 2 SUPs.
• Trolling motor, battery, paddle, carry bag - not included.

Video of SUP Catamaran Platform using similar 140mm drop stitch. 

Old aluminum frame to convert 2 inflatable SUPs into catamaran.

Assembly Instructions:

1. Inflate Components: Begin by inflating both SUPs and the platform to the recommended pressure.

2. Position the Platform: Place the platform over the paddle boards, ensuring it is centered.

3. Secure with Straps: Run the four provided straps under the hulls of the SUPs and secure them to the four lashing tie-down locks on the platform. Pull the straps tightly to ensure the platform is firmly attached to the top of the paddle boards. Double-check that the locks are fully engaged.

4. Adjust Motor Mount: Unfold the motor mount and adjust the lashing tie-down to ensure it is in a vertical position. The shaft of the trolling motor should rest on the outer edge of the platform, with the motor propeller positioned clear of the inflatable SUP surfaces.

5. Safety Check: Always wear Personal Flotation Devices (PFDs) while using the platform.

6. Adjust Back Rest: If needed, you can increase the recline angle of the backrest by releasing some air. The backrest doesn't need to be as firm as the platform and can be softer for added comfort.

Quick Tip: For optimal rigidity:

• Option 1: Install the platform on top of the SUPs while they are slightly under-inflated. Once the platform is secured, fully inflate the SUPs. The boards will expand, creating a highly rigid structure.
• Option 2: Alternatively, install the slightly under-inflated platform on fully inflated SUPs, secure the straps, and then add more air to the platform. This will allow the platform to expand further, enhancing rigidity.

IMPORTANT: Please email with questions before ordering, is something is unclear.

Assembly Manual (Catamaran-Frame-Assembly-Manual.pdf, 507 Kb) [ Download ]

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