sailboat head plumbing

• Build A Boat
• Find A Dealer

• Guide To Head Systems and Maintenance

Choosing a marine toilet, also known as a head system, is not an easy feat. There are a variety of marine sanitation systems that all work a little differently and come at a range of price points. Once you’ve chosen the head system for your boat, you need to keep up with maintenance — while the overall upkeep is similar, the specifics ultimately depend on the type of system you choose. Plus, you need to know the laws surrounding head systems and when and where you can and cannot dump waste.

The best thing you can do is educate yourself on the types of head systems available, how they work and the laws surrounding the use of head systems. We’ve included information on all this below to help you get started.

Types of Head Systems

While there seems to be an endless number of head systems, we can group the majority of them into three main categories based on their structure and function — self-contained portable toilets, fixed plumbing systems with holding tanks and marine sanitation systems.

Self-Contained Portable Toilets

If you’re limited on space and need a way to hold a small amount of waste — usually a maximum of six gallons — and aren’t feeling disgusted by the thought of manually taking that waste off the boat and onto shore to dump, a self-contained portable toilet may work for you. This type of marine toilet is a small porta-potty for your boat — no permanent plumbing needed, low risk of clogging and the most inexpensive type of marine toilet.

The cons? Deodorizing chemicals may not be able to tackle the smell, and you’re going to have to physically carry the container with the waste off the boat to dump — either in a marina toilet or to a pump-out facility where personnel will dispose of it for you.

Fixed Plumbing Systems With Holding Tanks

If you aren’t keen on the upkeep of the porta-potty, the next step would be a fixed plumbing system with a holding tank. Within this category, there are a few different options. All of them share a few things in common — a holding tank and a system of hoses and valves. Where each of them differs is in the operation and discharge options.

• Manual pump:  A manual pump, like the Jabsco units in some of our Formula Boats models, uses raw water, requiring you to open an inlet seacock. The manual pump brings in fresh water and pumps wastewater to the holding tank, depending on which direction the pump handle is facing.

• Electric pump:  These pumps, like the Vacuflush units available in the majority of Formula Boats models, use the freshwater system of your boat for their water supply and flush using a vacuum generated by an electric pump and a vacuum holding tank. To use this type, you need to turn on the waste system and/or the head pump breakers at the cabin electrical panel. Lift up on the flush lever to draw some fresh water into the bowl. Then, to flush, push down on the flush lever. The vacuum draws the waste through a constricted opening at the bottom of the head, fragmenting it before it travels to the holding tank.

Once you’ve decided which type of operation you prefer, the next step is to choose a plumbing system configuration — that is, what discharge options you want to have.

• Pump-out holding tanks:  Holding tanks may exclusively come with a pump-out option. This type — sometimes referred to as a coastal holding tank — is meant for those who use pump-out facilities 100 percent of the time and do not have a need for a self-discharge option. If you use your boat within three miles of the coast, you can’t legally discharge your waste overboard, so this option may be the perfect match for your use. It’s important to look into pump-out facility locations and to plan accordingly — if the holding tank is full, you can no longer use it.

• Pump-out holding tanks with overboard discharge option:  If you’re choosing a marine head system for your boat, travel in areas where dumping waste is legal and want to have the option to discharge overboard, this is a great option. Sometimes called an offshore or coastal hybrid tank, this model has a Y-valve located between the toilet and the holding tank, giving you the option to switch it to discharge overboard if and when it’s legal, or keep it switched to the holding tank when you’re in areas where dumping is illegal. The downside to this model is the risk of accidental discharge, which authorities don’t like to see. Plus, if the holding tank is full, your head will be out of order.
• Holding tanks with multiple options:  This one is the most versatile holding tank head system and the one we’ve chosen as the standard in all our Formula Boats Cruiser and Super Sport models. In this type, all waste goes from the toilet through a hose and into the holding tank. The Y-valve gets installed after the holding tank, giving you the opportunity to store waste in the holding tank and then either use a pump-out facility or discharge through a macerator pump when you legally can. Many wonder, “How does a macerator pump work on a boat?” The answer is that when you switch the Y-valve to discharge the holding tank, it goes out through a macerator pump, which grinds up all the waste before discharge. This option is available in Formula Boats models through the addition of the optional macerator system.

Marine Sanitation Systems

The third type of head system is marine sanitation systems — these systems do not need a holding tank because they treat the waste to eliminate harmful bacteria and contain a macerating pump, which grinds the waste into sludge and discharges it overboard. Due to the complexity of these marine sanitation systems, and their price tag, they are usually on large, live-aboard boats. Despite the fact that these systems sanitize the waste, and make dumping waste legal in most cases, boaters with these systems are still required to observe the No-Discharge Zones designated by the Environmental Protection Agency.

Tips for Dealing With Holding Tanks

Unless you’re interested in a porta-potty or own a large, live-aboard yacht, choosing a marine toilet often involves learning how to use and maintain a holding tank, also called a waste tank. While these tanks are certainly manageable, they are not something boat owners can afford to neglect. Here are a few key things to keep in mind if you have a head system with a holding tank.

Monitor Your Holding Tank Level

This may seem like a no-brainer, but make sure you are aware of how full your holding tank is and pump it routinely. While tank indicators may differ slightly, all of them clearly show when your tank is full. In Formula Boats models, we’ve equipped them with a safety mechanism that shuts down the head pump, which disables the toilet’s flush when the waste tank is full. While it may seem like a nuisance, the purpose is to protect you from overfilling the tank and creating a mess.

Recharge with Waste Treatment Chemicals

After you pump out your waste, don’t forget to recharge the holding tank with the approved waste treatment chemical. While your holding tank system isn’t a marine sanitation system, there is still some level of sanitation and breakdown involved when you’re dealing with waste. Flushing it through the head system can also help. For specifics, follow the instructions in your marine toilet manufacturer’s operation manual.

Don’t Forget About the Seacock

If you can discharge through a macerator pump legally, don’t forget to open this valve. Otherwise, your macerator will be trying to pump waste with no place to push it. The result could be a burned-out macerator — or, if a fitting gives out, the creation of a brand-new holding tank: your engine compartment.

Use Deodorizers Regularly

It shouldn’t come as a surprise that smells can accumulate in a holding tank over time. Rather than waiting until a smell develops, use deodorizers regularly to help prevent a problem from arising. Again, for specifics on what to use and how often, it’s best to consult your marine toilet manufacturer’s operation manual.

Marine Head Maintenance Tips

Regardless of which marine head system you have, keeping your marine head in the best possible shape comes down to proper use and regular maintenance — and replacement, as needed. If you are diligent in these areas, you will be able to avoid marine toilet problems and extend the life of your head system. Here are a few specific tips we have for maintaining your marine head.

Educate Guests On Marine Head Etiquette

Yes, toilet talk before you head out on a boating adventure may be awkward, but what’s even worse is having to pick your guests’ unmentionables out of a clogged head in the middle of your fun getaway. If they don’t own a boat with a head, chances are they don’t know — and so it’s your job to educate them. Just like with a toilet on land, you shouldn’t flush anything except toilet paper and human waste. Period.

Flush Waste Using Freshwater

If you have a Vacuflush head, this tip is easy because your unit uses the freshwater system of your boat for its water supply. For all others, it’s tempting to use raw water — it surrounds your boat and doesn’t require any additional effort. Unfortunately, all the microorganisms that live in raw water, combined with waste, creates a stench that will leave your friends running in the opposite direction. Instead, use freshwater. Keep a few jugs of water in the head compartment and set the intake level to “dry” or “dry flush.” Then use about half of a half-gallon jug for liquid waste and one entire half-gallon jug for solid waste.

Keep It Clean

Whenever you dump out the holding tank, fill the toilet bowl with clean water and flush. Next, pump out the holding tank. If you have a macerator pump, use it. Every so often — especially when leaving the boat for a long time — use more water and diluted, biodegradable detergent to clean the system. A gallon or two will suffice for a self-contained portable toilet. For Formula Boats models, five gallons is enough for the manual pump head and Vacuflush heads. Run it through all the parts of your system to remove sludge and debris and to prolong the lifespan of your equipment. In your cleaning efforts, never use harsh chemicals like commercial drain cleaners, which will corrode your seals and hoses.

Get A Repair Kit

Purchase a repair kit with parts specifically for your make and model of marine head — it’ll contain flapper valves, joker valves and seals, plus other parts that could fail. Then, whether you’re in the middle of a day on the water or in between seasons, you have the parts you need to complete a repair and won’t get stuck without a working marine head.

Winterize It Properly

If you’re getting your boat ready for winter, make sure to fully drain all water from all freshwater lines, as well as the head and holding tank. Add non-toxic RV antifreeze to the freshwater tank and flush a sufficient amount of antifreeze through the hoses and into the holding tank. Avoid using alcohol-based antifreeze, as it can create tiny holes in the sanitation hoses and lead to an odor problem. When you’re getting your boat ready for a new season, check the tightness of all hose clamps, install a new holding tank vent filter and scrub holding tank sensor probes with a hard-bristled brush.

Replace Parts Wisely

At some point, you’ll need to replace the parts of your marine head system. When you do, make sure you do your homework. While it may be tempting to choose a cheap option, investing in the high-grade hoses can make a big difference, as they will not absorb the smell as easily.

Discharge Laws

As a boater, it is your responsibility to know the federal regulations, as well as any local regulations regarding marine head systems and discharge in your area. We can’t speak to all the local laws where you live, but we can give you an overview of the federal regulations.

Federal regulations on marine head systems came from concerns regarding the bacteria and pathogens in human feces. Many people swim in and drink the water inland and in coastal waters — so the federal government determined it would not permit the presence of this untreated sewage in these areas.

In 1972, the government banned the discharge of untreated sewage into inland waters — including rivers, lakes, etc. — or coastal waters within three miles of the shore. That means unless you have a marine sanitation system, which translates to treated sewage, you are not allowed to discharge any waste within three miles of the coast and in rivers, lakes and other inland waters.

The EPA has also established  No-Discharge Zones , where no discharge of any waste — treated or untreated — is permitted. Make sure you know the No-Discharge Zones in your area and avoid discharging any waste in those areas.

If you have a marine head system with a Y-valve between the toilet and the holding tank, the U.S. Coast Guard and most marine law enforcement agencies require the Y-valve to be padlocked to the holding tank position while in use in coastal waters. This requirement is meant to protect against accidental discharge in an area where the discharge of untreated sewage is illegal.

By familiarizing yourself with the federal and local regulations, you can ensure you’re operating your marine head system safely and legally and doing your part to keep the environment clean.

Choosing a Head System for Your Custom Boat

Selecting a head system for your boat is essential, as you want to make sure you have one that gives you what you need to abide by the regulations, but also to add convenience to your boating adventures with family and friends. As a boat manufacturer for more than 40 years, we have experience with a variety of head systems and have selected those that are the best balance of convenience, affordability and safety for our customers.

Formula Boats gives you the ability to customize boat models, empowering you to choose everything from the head system to the paint. Get started with our  online boat builder . When you’re ready to take the next step,  find the dealer  closest to you to begin bringing your custom boat to life. Have questions in the process? Our team is here to help. All you have to do is  contact us .

Contact Dealer

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply

• BOAT OF THE YEAR
• Newsletters
• Sailboat Reviews
• Boating Safety
• Sails and Rigging
• Maintenance
• Sailing Totem
• Sailor & Galley
• Living Aboard
• Destinations
• Gear & Electronics
• Charter Resources
• Ultimate Boating Giveaway

Upgrading Your Marine Toilet

• By Jen Brett
• Updated: July 7, 2020

Just about every sailor has a head story, which is usually humorous and quite likely fairly gross. These stories typically include massive clogs, holding-tank issues, or pump malfunctions that occur at just the wrong time (really, is there a right time?), followed by a debate over marine and environmental issues and the merits of replacing the whole marine toilet system with just a bucket. And while a bucket may eliminate plumbing and holding tanks, the experience of using and dumping said tub leaves something to be desired. Fortunately, sailors today have more boat toilet choices than in the past, and those choices are more reliable and cost efficient than ever.

Unlike household toilets, which are all pretty much the same, marine toilets come in different shapes and sizes and have different flush mechanisms and tank options, so you can design a system that works for your boat, budget, and cruising plans. While the emphasis here will be on what’s available in marine heads, this is also the time to take a look at what the experts refer to as the marine-sanitation-device system. New, high-quality, sanitation-grade hoses, a clear vent hose, and a new or scrubbed-out holding tank will go a long way to ensuring that the system operates as efficiently and as free of odor as possible. If replacing your head and related sanitation gear is in your future, you may want to consider an upgrade to an electric head, a vacuum head, or even a composting head. Or if you’re on a tight budget, you can always go back to basics, so to speak.

Manual Boat Toilets ($200 to $1,750)

Keeping it simple certainly has its merits, and manual boat toilets have done the job for years. From the venerable (but now hard to find) Wilcox-Crittenden Skipper head to the widely available Jabsco manual head ($200), cruising sailors have relied on these due to ease of use, simple system designs, readily available rebuild kits, and, in the case of the Jabsco, low replacement cost. If you’re going to replace your head with another manual boat toilet, consider looking for one that’s pumped with a back-and-forth motion, such as the Groco K-H manual head ($1,750), because many people find this easier than an up-and-down motion. A bronze base is more robust than a plastic one and may hold up longer, too, and a large joker valve clogs less frequently.

Electric Marine Toilets ($550 to more than $1,600)

A common marine toilet upgrade is to go electric, which can sometimes be as simple as installing an electric pump in an already compatible system. An electric marine toilet eliminates the need to manually pump, pump, pump to clear the bowl. Electric heads also typically include a macerator as well, which is similar to a garbage disposal and grinds up waste and paper before discharge into the holding tank (or overboard, if you’re offshore). All you do is push a button. This simplicity is nice if you frequently have landlubbers aboard. “They’re easy to use for those who come on board and aren’t familiar with a marine system, and they do a good job of chopping up any solids before it enters the sanitation hose, reducing the possibility of a clog,” says John Corbishley of Ocean Link ( oceanlinkinc.com ), a marine-systems specialist with an office in Portsmouth, Rhode Island.

Some electric marine toilets, such as the Jabsco Lite-Flush ($659), are designed as a direct replacement for a specific manual head, which typically makes for easier installation. “When choosing a macerating electric head, another element that we consider is access to the moving parts,” Corbishley continues. “If they’re located in more than one area, like a locker or under a platform, they’re much harder to service. The macerator blades are one of the major components to fail when the wrong thing is introduced to the toilet, so they need to stand up to the job.”

Electricity consumption, which is almost always a concern on cruising boats, is something to think about when switching to an electric marine toilet. Corbishley says that the draw on the electrical system is minimal on a typical modern cruising boat. However, he notes that when the head is used, there is a brief load burst of between 20 and 30 amps, so each head should have its own breaker, either at the boat’s panel or a separate breaker somewhere else.

An electric macerating toilet that Corbishley recommends to his customers who are looking to upgrade the head on their sailboats is Saniflo’s SaniMarin (from $670). He notes that the parts are all located under the china bowl and that by undoing three screws, you can pivot the unit and gain access to those inner workings. The macerator blade is stainless steel, and the pump is quite powerful, which reduces clogs.

If nothing’s too good for your boat and you’re truly looking for a throne, Tecma’s X-Light carbon-fiber head may suit your fancy. It’s the most expensive head that we could find (not to mention the coolest-looking one!), at prices that start at just over $10,000.

Vacuum Marine Toilets ($400 to $2,000)

Vacuum systems have been used on larger poweryachts for many years. They work well; however, since the systems are usually large and use fresh water to flush, many sailors have stayed away from them. A new product from Dometic may change that.

The SailVac holding-tank system, when paired with one of its VacuFlush marine toilets ($1,670 for both), is specifically designed for the small spaces typically found on most sailboats ( editor’s note July 2020: Dometic does not seem to be producing the SailVac any longer ). The SailVac combines a vacuum pump, vacuum reservoir, and holding tank into one unit. A real benefit of vacuum systems is that although they use fresh water to flush, they use only a very modest amount, usually around a pint or so. They also typically use much less power (three amps at 12 volts DC for the SailVac) than a standard macerating electric head.

Popular among sailors for its reliability, the Lavac head (from $440) also uses vacuum pressure to clear the bowl, but it works differently than the SailVac system. When you close the lid on the Lavac, a seal forms. A diaphragm pump, the only moving part, then creates a vacuum, which pulls out the waste and draws in the flush water. After a few seconds, the vacuum breaks, and the toilet is ready to be used again.

After using a Lavac head on some other boats, cruising sailor Brian Cole decided to install one on his own vessel. After using it for a couple of years, he offers a few thoughts. On the plus side, since the pump is external and has simple gaskets, the Lavac is easy to fix and rarely clogs.

However, Cole finds that the Lavac uses more water for a full flush than does a manual head, and the normal installation requires a user to wait about 30 seconds before being able to open the lid, which can be a problem if there’s an ill person on board. “Other than that,” Cole says, “I’d recommend the Lavac over any head that we’ve ever had or used on board. The simplicity is wonderful. The installation does require a little more thought, but the long-term repair benefits are worth it.”

Composting Toilets ($800 to $1,000)

A relative newcomer to the marine-toilet marketplace, composting heads are starting to make their way onto more boats. Such composting heads as the Air Head ($1,030) or Nature’s Head ($925) offer a major benefit over other systems in that they require no through-hulls. Both toilets work in the same way: Moist, crumbled peat moss is put in the composting chamber at the bottom portion of the toilet. When the toilet is used, liquid waste is channeled into a separate tank, while solid waste goes into the composting chamber. You turn a crank handle, which agitates the contents; the process to transform it all into compost begins immediately. An integral 12-volt vent fan keeps the compost dry and hastens the process. According to Air Head, the solid tank has enough capacity for a couple to use it during a month of living aboard before needing to empty it; however, the liquid tank needs to be emptied every two or three days.

Although sailors switching over to a composting head will definitely have to deal with a learning curve—not to mention the job of removing all parts of the previous system—the composting head, when set up and maintained properly, should be free of odor, and you’ll never have to worry about clogged hoses or finding pumpout stations again.The marine head has certainly come a long way from its beginnings as a hole in the bow of a ship, and while you’ll still probably need to give thorough instructions on head procedures to all your onboard guests, with the many advances in toilets and M.S.D. systems, those gross, though amusing, head stories may become a thing of the past.Installing a new marine toilet is within the skill set of most do-it-yourselfers, but if you’re completely redesigning your system or, say, upgrading from a manual head to a vacuum system, you may want to consult with someone who has experience with marine plumbing.

Jen Brett, CW senior editor, is a liveaboard sailor who’s somehow managed to convince her husband to do all of the head rebuilds—so far.

• More: How To , plumbing , ship's systems , systems
• More How To

Grease the Wheels of Your Boat: A Guide to Proper Lubrication

A Bowsprit Reborn: A DIY Renovation Story

Rigging Redo: Our Switch to Synthetic

Top Tools for Sailboat Cruising: Must-Have Gear for 2024

Galápagos: A Paradise Worth the Paperwork

Around Alone

• Digital Edition
• Customer Service
• Privacy Policy
• Terms of Use
• Email Newsletters
• Cruising World
• Sailing World
• Salt Water Sportsman
• Sport Fishing
• Wakeboarding

• Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email
• What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media
• Media New media New comments
• Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com
• Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale
• Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday
• Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe

Head plumbing

• Thread starter fred1diver
• Start date Jan 10, 2020
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

Don S/V ILLusion

Search marine head plumbing  

Attachments

I know, not sure how I’m going to remedy that on  

In the first picture it appears as though the hose from the pump to the toilet rear for rinse water goes up to a siphon break. This is wrong! It should go from the pump directly to the toilet back. I can see no reason not to remove the Y and get rid of that hose to the through hull, but keep both as a buyer may wish to revert to the other system and it will help the sale (that's what we've done, only in reverse). However, I would most strongly suggest you get that plastic tail piece out of the through hull (it shouldn't be there anyway) and replace it with a proper metal pipe plug. The black ridged hose should be the water intake (necessary), a bit light duty for my taste, but commonly used. The large green should be discharge to Y valve, and necessary. Big black hose may be fuel fill and necessary, but reroutable if you please. Could the last braided hose be a cockpit drain? Again, you could reroute it if you wished, to neaten up things down there.  

Peggie Hall HeadMistress

capta said: In the first picture it appears as though the hose from the pump to the toilet rear for rinse water goes up to a siphon break. This is wrong! It should go from the pump directly to the toilet back. Click to expand

Peggie is right. (as usual, she's what you call... an expert) Particularly with rip it all out and starting with new hose. For any boat that isn't commonly where direct discharge is OK, a Y valve is useless. So lose that. Pay attention to where the vented loop goes. That congregated hose.. I hate that stuff, it's weak and unsightly. If you cannot remove the big through hull that the Y valve connected to (the correct thing) - at least plug it so that opening that valve doesn't sink the boat.  

Thanks Peggy, I’ll definitely get in touch when this project comes up in the spring, I have a better pic of the toilet, maybe you can make it out  

Between now and then, give this idea some thought: On any boat much smaller than about 28', a self-contained system—an "MSD" portapotty-- makes a lot of sense. Yes, it IS a portapottty, but the "MSD" designation in the model name/number means it has fittings for a pumpout line and vent line, and is designed to be permanently installed (actually just sturdier brackets than portables, so you could still take it off the boat if you absolutely have to), which means that although it's still called a PORTApotty, you don't have to carry anything off the boat to empty it. A 5-6 gallon model holds 50-60 flushes...you'd need at least a 30 gal tank to hold that many from a manual marine toilet. No plumbing needed except a vent line and pumpout hose--so no new holes in the boat...and -0- maintenance needed except for rinsing out the tank--which you can do with a bucket while it's being pumped out. Total cost including the pumpout hose and vent line is about $200--a fraction of what you'd spend for toilet, tank and all the related plumbing needed. And the best part is, you have all the advantages of a toilet and holding tank without giving up a single square foot of storage space. Check out the Thetford 550P MSD and the Dometic/SeaLand 975MSD Sanipottie . Thetford has discontinued the 550PMSD, but it’s still available from most retailers…the Dometic 975MSD is still in production. They’re comparable, and not much can go wrong with either one, so if you like the Thetford find out if sbo.com still carries it before shopping for it elsewhere. Sbo.com does have the Dometic 975MSD. A number of people here have opted to go with an MSD portapotty...hopefully some of 'em will chime in with their experience with it. --Peggie  

I have the domestic version that peggie describes. It is not. Plumbed with a pump out and my marina does not have that service so I prob won’t put it on my 2do list but I can say that it is a very functional unit. I have no complaints  

Peggie Hall HeadMistress said: Sorry Capta, but the intake vented loop DOES belong between the pump and bowl... Click to expand

Charlie Jones s/v Tehani

I also have the Dometic MSD- I installed in in Boot Key Harbor- the rules there were pump out or leave after 7 days. Has worked flawlessly for me since 2010. The only time I have used it as a "porta potty" was in the Bahamas where at that time, there were no pumpouts. All round the coast, from Annapolis to here in Port Lavaca, pump out stations were readily available at reasonable costs. many were free- i got told- we'd rather you pump than dump. And I'll tell you- Boot Key was a WHOLE lot more pleasant (water wise) than when I was there in 1981 when the was zero pumpout facilities  

capta said: In more than 5 decades on boats of all types, I have never once seen a siphon break between the pump and the bowl. Not once! Click to expand

Peggie Hall HeadMistress said: Then you haven't read very many manual toilet owners manuals . See Figure 1 on page 3 in the Jabsco manual Jabsco 29090 Manual Twist & Lock owners manual , figure 2 on page 5 in the Raritan PHII manual... figure 5 on page 5 in the PH SuperFlush manual Raritan SuperFlush Owners Manual But it's not only installed between the pump and the bowl on manual toilets...that's where it belongs on sea water electric toilets...see page 7 in the Raritan SeaEra owners manual Raritan SeaEra owners manual Jabsco shows it in the line between the thru-hull and the pump motor assembly on their 37010 sea water toilet, but putting there requires an electric solenoid valve on the loop (see page 2 in the owners manual Jabsco 37010 owners manual ) that would not be needed if the loop were installed between the pump and the bowl...which isn't possible on all electric toilets, only those that have a connecting hose. Click to expand

I had a Nature’s Head installed this last summer. It’s a functional, “green” alternative way to go, no real mess and no fuss. For two people, it’s efficient and only needs to have the liquid tank dumped every few days and the solid bin dumped every three to five months. The ventilation system provides an odorless situation and the construction appears to be long lasting (of course only time will tell) but so far, I’m impressed. It’s not the cheapest system, but I’ve spent $1,000 on lesser satisfactory products. Other sailors I’ve talked to in our marina pretty much agree with my assessment (that includes boats ranging in size from 22’ to 50’).  

• This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…

JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser. For the best experience on our site, be sure to turn on Javascript in your browser.

We Ship Worldwide.

• Testimonial
• Create an Account

Boat Toilet Systems, Soap Dishes and Parts

Keep life aboard clean, comfortable, and convenient with boat head and toilet systems and fittings from Great Lakes Skipper's inventory of new and replacement discount boat parts. We carry boat vacuum flush toilets and vacuum tanks, ceramic boat toilets, gravity toilets, portable camping toilets, toilet system control boxes, and boat waste management systems. Check out our great discount prices on boat toilet systems from Dometic, Galley Maid, Hydra Sport, Jabsco, Springfield Marine, and many more manufacturers.

Shop Products

Items 1 - 12 of 42

• You're currently reading page 1

• Privacy Policy
• Terms of Use

• New Sailboats
• Sailboats 21-30ft
• Sailboats 31-35ft
• Sailboats 36-40ft
• Sailboats Over 40ft
• Sailboats Under 21feet
• used_sailboats
• Apps and Computer Programs
• Communications
• Fishfinders
• Handheld Electronics
• Plotters MFDS Rradar
• Wind, Speed & Depth Instruments
• Anchoring Mooring
• Running Rigging
• Sails Canvas
• Standing Rigging
• Diesel Engines
• Off Grid Energy
• Cleaning Waxing
• DIY Projects
• Repair, Tools & Materials
• Spare Parts
• Tools & Gadgets
• Cabin Comfort
• Ventilation
• Footwear Apparel
• Foul Weather Gear
• Mailport & PS Advisor
• Inside Practical Sailor Blog
• Activate My Web Access
• Reset Password
• Customer Service

• Free Newsletter

Blue Jacket 40 Used Boat Review

Catalina 270 vs. The Beneteau First 265 Used Boat Match-Up

Ericson 41 Used Boat Review

Mason 33 Used Boat Review

How to Create a Bullet-Proof VHF/SSB Backup

Tips From A First “Sail” on the ICW

Tillerpilot Tips and Safety Cautions

Best Crimpers and Strippers for Fixing Marine Electrical Connectors

Polyester vs. Nylon Rode

Getting the Most Out of Older Sails

How (Not) to Tie Your Boat to a Dock

Stopping Mainsheet Twist

Fuel Lift Pump: Easy DIY Diesel Fuel System Diagnostic and Repair

Ensuring Safe Shorepower

Sinking? Check Your Stuffing Box

What Do You Do With Old Fiberglass Boats?

Boat Repairs for the Technically Illiterate

Boat Maintenance for the Technically Illiterate

Whats the Best Way to Restore Clear Plastic Windows?

Stopping Holding-tank Odors

Giving Bugs the Big Goodbye

Galley Gadgets for the Cruising Sailor

The Rain Catcher’s Guide

Sailing Gear for Kids

What’s the Best Sunscreen?

UV Clothing: Is It Worth the Hype?

Preparing Yourself for Solo Sailing

R. Tucker Thompson Tall Ship Youth Voyage

On Watch: This 60-Year-Old Hinckley Pilot 35 is Also a Working…

On Watch: America’s Cup

On Watch: All Eyes on Europe Sail Racing

Dear Readers

Keeping Water Clean and Fresh

Solutions for a Stinky Holding Tank

Hassle-free Pumpouts

Composting Head Disposal Options

Yes, We Are Talking About Boat Bidets

Leak-proof Unions Get a Second Look

Dissecting the Desiccating Head

DIY Desiccating Head Options

Avoiding Kinks in Flexible Hose Plumbing

Mailport: fuel tanks, chain hooks, bilge pumps, and hypothermia

Mailport: Marelon Seacocks

Controlling Porta Potty Odor

Cure for Holding Tank Clog

Pump Out Attention Extends to the Head

Latest videos.

Cabo Rico 34 Boat Review

Super Shallow Draft Sailboat: The Leeboard Sharpie

Hans Christian 41T – Boat Review

Seven dead after superyacht sinks off Sicily. Was the crew at...

Latest sailboat review.

• Privacy Policy
• Do Not Sell My Personal Information
• Online Account Activation
• Privacy Manager

Please verify you are a human

Access to this page has been denied because we believe you are using automation tools to browse the website.

This may happen as a result of the following:

• Javascript is disabled or blocked by an extension (ad blockers for example)
• Your browser does not support cookies

Please make sure that Javascript and cookies are enabled on your browser and that you are not blocking them from loading.

Reference ID: 549e6772-7337-11ef-bcfb-106ff8245741

Powered by PerimeterX , Inc.

Powell Plumbing

Photos & videos.

See all 7 photos

Services Offered

Verified by Business

Plumbing inspection

Plumbing repair

Sewer repair

Plumbing installation or replacement

Sewer installation

You Might Also Consider

KME Specialties

in Electricians, Machine Shops

Dan’s Stove & Spa

in Hot Tub & Pool, Fireplace Services, Heating & Air Conditioning/hvac

Premier Basement Systems

in Waterproofing, Insulation Installation, Foundation Repair

About the Business

Powell Plumbing is the Palouse Region's oldest and most established Plumbing Contracting and Supply Company. We have been proudly serving customers in the Palouse since 1923. We provide fast, friendly, professional plumbing services for both commercial and residential customers, as well as new construction, service and repair and emergencies. We also specialize in water heater sales, repair and replacement and also provide drain and sewer cleaning services. We are open Mon-Fri from 8:00AM-5:00PM. We sevice and sell most major brands of Faucets and Fixtures such as Kohler, Moen, Bradford White & Delta to name just a few. Please call us today for all of your Plumbing Service needs. …

Location & Hours

Suggest an edit

612 S Main St

Moscow, ID 83843

Amenities and More

Ask the community.

Ask a question

Yelp users haven’t asked any questions yet about Powell Plumbing .

People also searched for

Small Businesses

Plumbing Leak

Commercial Plumber

General Contractors

Water Heater Repair

Recommended Reviews

• 1 star rating Not good
• 2 star rating Could’ve been better
• 3 star rating OK
• 4 star rating Good
• 5 star rating Great

Select your rating

Overall rating

Our kitchen sink had some problems that we hoped could get taken care of before the weekend and Powell Plumbing exceeded our expectations! They sent their service technician, Himey, out just a few hours later and he was very efficient, knowledgeable and personable. We were also happily surprised by our bill which was less than half of what another plumber quoted us.

Had small remodel and water heater relocation this man ran the cold in the crawl space to shut off and after shutoff tied in the hose bib and water heater and that's it. Then on the outlet side of the water heater (so hot side) he tied into the existing cold to the rest of the fixtures. Cold water lines have hot water and hot lines have no water. Idiot!!

Excellent, quality service, quick to respond, easy-going people and my plumbing issue is fixed. Thank you, Powell Plumbing!

I tried scheduling something for same-day service (today). They were booked already, but they promised if they had an early opening, they would take a look at the problem we had. I was a little disappointed, but a couple hours later, they gave me a call and let me know that someone would be stopping by. He came in, was polite, fixed the problem quickly, and was out to his next scheduled appointment. I really appreciate the quality and professional work that Dave did, and they fit it in on short notice.

After being told by another plumber that they were "too busy" to come out, the guy at Powell came out right away and fixed the problem quickly and efficiently. We had to have additional work done later (we have OLD pipes circa 1935 that needed to be replaced in places) and once again, he was able to come out the same day we called, fixed the issue quickly, and now the drain in our kitchen sink works better than the day we bought the house. Bonus, the bill on both these jobs were not bad and their receptionist was polite and extremely courteous. If you've had a bad experience with these guys, maybe give them another chance. I was very pleased.

Quality service, quick work, and nice people. I don't feel like typing out the entire fiasco so to make a long story short, Powell plumbing saved my bacon.

Called about a broken toilet supply line. Plumber came out, looked at the toilet, said he had to go out for parts. Never heard back that day. Called back the following day and they said they couldn't find the part and so couldn't fix it. IT'S A SUPPLY LINE. COPPER TUBING. Up until now, I'd never met a plumber incompetent enough to not know how to use a brazing torch. What do these idiots do: wait by the phone with a bottle of Drano and a plumber's helper hoping somebody less competent than them will call?

I would recommend giving them a call. I went with another company and called Powell for pricing and advice and even though they didn't have my business they went out if their way to research and answer my questions. I will call them first next time.

Powell installed a new Bradford White water heater for us. The installation seemed adequate except that the tech didn't check the hot water pressure at the bathroom shower head before he left. On a well system, the tank supplied not quite enough pressure to get a hot shower. I was able to correct the problem by increasing the pressure setting on the cut-off switch at the pressure tank and raising the hot water temperature a few degrees so there was less hot water required to get an adequate temp/flow balance for a shower. Worst of all was the fact that the plumber set the old tank on the corner of a brand new concrete parking stand leaving an 8-foot rust stain where it leaked rusty water and drove off after loading it without even trying to hose off the rust. There were a gravel drive, a grassy area and an old concrete section all less than 2 feet from the new pour - better choices for setting down a leaking old tank. UNPROFESSIONAL!!! I did manage to clean the rust stain off the following summer but shouldn't have had to waste my time and money.

I had a water heater issue. The plumber was prompt, courteous diagnosed and fixed the problem easily. I will call them again if I need a plumber.

1 other review that is not currently recommended

Natural Emergency

in Damage Restoration

Ruckus Contracting

in Flooring

Browse Nearby

Electricians

Restaurants

Hardware Stores

Other Plumbing Nearby

Find more Plumbing near Powell Plumbing

Service Offerings in Moscow

Sewer Services

People found Powell Plumbing by searching for…

Drain Cleaning in Moscow, Idaho

Plumbing Contractors in Moscow, Idaho

Water Well Service in Moscow, Idaho

Related Cost Guides

Fireplace Services

Glass & Mirrors

Home Network Installation

House Sitters

Lawn Services

Packing Services

People Also Viewed

Direct Plumbing Solutions

McCoy Plumbing Heating & Bath Boutique

Miller Bros Plumbing & Heating

Hilliard’s Heating & Plumbing

Unlimited Heating & Refrigeration

Unlimited Heating

Rapid Rooter Sewer Drain Cleanig

Ray’s Plumbing

Ken Paulson Plumbing

Harper Plumbing

(208) 775-0900

UPGRADING MOSCOW/PULLMAN'S OUTDATED PLUMBING SYSTEMS

4.9 Average Rating

Trained plumbing professionals, locally owned and operated, 24/7 emergency leak repair, got a plumbing problem direct plumbing provides leak repairs, water heater repairs & replacements, whole-house repipes, fixture upgrades, and renovations to the moscow, id and pullman, wa area. we look forward to serving you.

Eric and his team are exceptional! All were very friendly and professional. Eric went above and beyond to be accommodating and helpful in problem-solving issues related to our recent installs. They are very knowledgable and responsive. I will use them for ALL of our future plumbing needs.

Eric just completed the repairs on our house. he installed a new toilet closet and repaired a leaking tub and a leaking toilet. eric was very punctual and professional. he is very knowledgeable and completed the repairs with no issues. one of the things i appreciated , is the respect he showed toward my house. every time he entered my home he put on shoe covers. i will definitely refer him to my friends and family., they installed a new main water line replacing the old galvanized pipe. they also replaced a cracked power flush unit in my toilet.. i found communication with them very easy. eric or another employee always answered the phone or emailed promptly. tanner came out both times to write up a bid. i appreciated working with a consistent staff..

Viola, ID 83872

ACTIVE STORM TRACKER Hurricane and Tropical Storm Information Learn more

Service Locator

• Angler Endorsement
• Boat Towing Coverage
• Mechanical Breakdown
• Insurance Requirements in Mexico
• Agreed Hull Value
• Actual Cash Value
• Liability Only
• Insurance Payment Options
• Claims Information
• Towing Service Agreement
• Membership Plans
• Boat Show Tickets
• BoatUS Boats For Sale
• Membership Payment Options
• Consumer Affairs
• Boat Documentation Requirements
• Installation Instructions
• Shipping & Handling Information
• Contact Boat Lettering
• End User Agreement
• Frequently Asked Questions
• Vessel Documentation
• BoatUS Foundation
• Government Affairs
• Powercruisers
• Buying & Selling Advice
• Maintenance
• Tow Vehicles
• Make & Create
• Makeovers & Refitting
• Accessories
• Electronics
• Skills, Tips, Tools
• Spring Preparation
• Winterization
• Boaters’ Rights
• Environment & Clean Water
• Boat Safety
• Navigational Hazards
• Personal Safety
• Batteries & Onboard Power
• Motors, Engines, Propulsion
• Books & Movies
• Cockpit Confessions
• Communication & Etiquette
• Contests & Sweepstakes
• Colleges & Tech Schools
• Food, Drink, Entertainment
• New To Boating
• Travel & Destinations
• Watersports
• Anchors & Anchoring
• Boat Handling

Boat Plumbing

Advertisement

Boat plumbing is a lot easier for the do-it yourselfer than plumbing at home, mainly because it doesn't involve rigid pipes running inside solid walls.

Here is an overview of a typical on-board water system.

Because water is heavy, tanks should be mounted low in the boat. Where space is available, it is a relatively simple matter to add extra tanks. Rigid polyethylene tanks are available in hundreds of shapes and sizes, or you might use a flexible bladder tank--essentially a water bag.

Water tanks typically have three threaded ports, one for the outlet and one for the vent hose, both 1/2-inch, and one for the fill hose, usually 1 1/2-inch. Threaded hose barbs allow for hose connections. The inlet is connected to an on-deck fill. (Be sure the deck-fill has an O-ring to seal out seawater when it is closed.) The vent line leads to a vent fitting high in the boat — above the tank at every expected angle of heel. Be aware that if the vent is not also higher than the fill, it will overflow when you are filling the tank. The outlet connection leads directly to a pump or, in a multi-tank installation, to a manifold or Y-valve.

Use Teflon tape or thread sealant on all threaded fittings, and don't overtighten fittings in plastic tanks. Secure hoses with stainless steel hose clamps.

Supply piping for a boat water system must be non-toxic, non-contaminating, taste-free, and FDA approved for drinking water. If the system is pressurized or will carry hot water, the piping needs to be suitable. The traditional choice for water system plumbing has long been clear PVC reinforced with polyester braid. This same type hose can be used for tank fill and vent connections.

In recent years semi-rigid polyethylene (PE) tubing, long used in RV plumbing, has surged in popularity for boat plumbing. It has much to recommend it. With quick-connect fittings, a PE tubing water delivery system assembles with the simplicity of Tinkertoys. The opaque or at least semitranslucent nature of the PE tubing discourages algae growth that can be a problem with clear hose. PE tubing also comes in colors — typically red for hot water and blue for cold — which looks nice and might make plumbing failures easier to trace. Because the tubing is less flexible than PVC hose and it must be cut to the correct lengths, a PE plumbing system will be slightly more demanding to install. However, the primary negative to PE plumbing is the cost of the fittings, which at this writing run $4 to $8 each. On the positive side, the tubing is actually cheaper than reinforced clear PVC hose.

Drain hoses connected to through-hull fittings should be stronger than clear vinyl hose. For this use, select reinforced rubber hose, sometimes called heater hose. This is the same type of hose used on engine plumbing, and it typically has about three times the burst strength of reinforced vinyl hose. Double clamp all hoses connected to through-hull fittings.

Water pumps on a boat can be either electric or manual. An electric pump pressurizes the entire water system. Most electric pumps have a pressure switch that activates when the pressure drops below a set value--usually around 30 or 40 PSI. Opening any tap on the boat releases pressure and causes the pump to kick on and run until it rebuilds the pressure to the cut-out setting. The pump cycles on and off until the tap is closed. The inlet of an electric pump connects directly to the tank outlet (or multitank valve), and the outlet supplies water to all faucets and appliances.

Manual pumps — hand or foot operated — supply a single spigot connected directly to the outlet side of the pump. A regulating valve is not required; water flow is controlled by the operation of the pump. The primary advantage of manual pumps is that they dramatically reduce water waste, a major concern for boats that spend long periods away from water supplies.

Accumulator

Some water systems include an accumulator. Large accumulators have pressurized bladders in them, but most small ones are just empty tanks teed into the line downstream of the pump. When the pump runs, it tries to fill the tank from the bottom, compressing the air trapped inside the tank. The pressure from the tank allows small amounts of water to be drawn without the necessity of the pump running, thus reducing pump cycling.

A marine water heater is simply a small, insulated tank downstream of the pump. You must have a pressurized water system to operate a water heater. The pump draws water from the storage tank(s) and fills the water heater tank. Inside the water heater is an electrical heating element and usually a coiled tube called a heat exchanger. When AC power is available, the electrical element (controlled by a thermostat) heats the water. Away from the dock, the hot engine coolant is routed through the coiled tube to heat the water in the tank when the engine is running.

Water heaters have four threaded ports. The tank inlet connects via a tee-connector to the outlet hose from the pump. A check valve is required in this line or in the heater to prevent hot water from migrating back toward the pump. The outlet connection supplies heated water to the hot side of all faucets, also using tee-connectors. The other two ports are for the heat exchanger connection, which varies depending on engine installation. Use only metal fittings to plumb a water heater, never plastic. If a pressure-release valve isn't integral, the heater will have a fifth port for this essential component.

Faucets are the ultimate terminus for water system lines. Manual pumps require simple spigots, but in a pressure water system, boat faucets differ from those found ashore only in styling and that they may be fitted with hose barbs. Mixer faucets require two connections, one from the cold side to the supply line from the pump and the other from the hot side to the water-heater outlet.

Shower connections are identical to faucet connections. The only difference is that rather than delivering the water through a spigot, the water is delivered through a pipe or hose to the shower head.

A nice owner addition to almost any boat is a deck shower, easily installed by simply teeing into cold- and hot-water supply lines.

Sink drains typically connect with reinforced rubber hose to a through-hull fitting. On a sailboat, sinks are best located near the centerline of the boat so heeling doesn't put them below the waterline. Because head sinks are often well outboard, they may be plumbed to drain into the bowl of the toilet to avoid the risk of flooding. There are collateral benefits of running fresh water through the head.

Shower pans too often drain into the bilge to be pumped overboard by the bilge pump. However, this arrangement eventually leads to unpleasant bilge odors, and it risks jamming the bilge pump with hair. Shower pans should be isolated from the bilge and include a discharge pump, either automatic or connected to a switch. The through-hull discharge outlet must always remain above the water.

Since few boats carry sufficient fresh water to allow washing the decks with it, washdown pumps are not connected into the freshwater system. Nevertheless, a washdown pump is a great convenience for hosing the deck and knocking mud off the anchor chain.

The inlet fitting of a washdown pump is connected to a submerged through-hull fitting, and the outlet side is connected to a deck-mounted faucet or male hose connector. A dedicated through-hull is not required; if you are installing a deckwash pump; use a Y- or tee-connector to tie into an existing inlet line. Use heavy-duty rubber suction hose, wire reinforced to keep the hose from collapsing. Debris will damage or destroy a washdown pump, so it is essential to have a strainer in the intake line.

Related Articles

The truth about ceramic coatings for boats.

Our editor investigates the marketing claims of consumer-grade ceramic coatings.

Fine-Tune Your Side Scan Fishfinder

Take your side-scanning fishfinder off auto mode, and you’ll be spotting your prey from afar in no time

DIY Boat Foam Decking

Closed-cell foam flooring helps make boating more comfortable. Here’s how to install it on your vessel

Click to explore related articles

Contributor, BoatUS Magazine

Don Casey has been one of the most consulted experts on boat care and upgrades for 30 years, and is one of the BoatUS Magazine's panel of experts. He and his wife cruise aboard their 30-footer part of the year in the eastern Caribbean. His books include Don Casey's Complete Illustrated Sailboat Maintenance Manual, and the recently updated This Old Boat, the bible for do-it-yourself boaters.

BoatUS Magazine Is A Benefit Of BoatUS Membership

Membership Benefits Include:

Subscription to the print version of BoatUS Magazine

4% back on purchases from West Marine stores or online at WestMarine.com

Discounts on fuel, transient slips, repairs and more at over 1,200 businesses

Deals on cruises, charters, car rentals, hotel stays and more…

All for only $25/year!

We use cookies to enhance your visit to our website and to improve your experience. By continuing to use our website, you’re agreeing to our cookie policy.