yacht rubbing strake

Rubbing Strake

A boat protection strip, also known as simply a strip, is a protective strip that is installed on the outside of a boat's hull to prevent damage from abrasion, impact, contact with moorings and other vessels. Protective strips play an important role in enhancing the durability and safety of boats by providing resistance to wear and tear during regular use in a variety of marine environments.

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What is a rubbing strake, and what role does it play in protecting a boat's hull?

A rubbing strake is a protective strip, typically made from PVC or rubber, that runs along the sides of a boat's hull, particularly on inflatable boats. It acts as a buffer to prevent damage to the hull when docking or coming into contact with other surfaces. This type of fender is essential for preserving the boat's exterior, and different types and colors, such as dark grey, are available to suit various nautical preferences.

How does the length of a rubbing strake affect its effectiveness on an inflatable boat?

The length of a rubbing strake is crucial for its effectiveness on an inflatable boat, as a properly sized strake provides better protection along the boat’s hull, especially in high-contact areas. Choosing the correct length, measured in meters, ensures that the strake can absorb impacts and prevent damage effectively. It's important to select a rubbing strake that matches the specific dimensions of your boat and apply it securely using appropriate adhesive or glue for a lasting fit.

How does the selection of a rubbing strake affect a boat’s appearance and functionality?

The selection of a rubbing strake significantly affects a boat’s appearance by adding a sleek, protective line along the hull, which can enhance its overall look and style. Functionally, choosing the right rubbing strake helps protect the boat from damage caused by bumps and scrapes, ensuring durability and maintaining the boat's value. Opting for high-quality materials and designs, often available for purchase online, allows boat owners to balance aesthetics with practical protection.

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Rubbing Strakes & Profiles

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2Pcs 5.9in Rub Strake Line Rub Strakes for Marine Boat Yacht Mooring Lines 316 Stainless Steel Accessory for Boat Yacht RV

Purchase options and add-ons

Material	Stainless Steel
Color	#56780
Brand	Ymiko
Vehicle Service Type	RV, Watercraft
Fastener Material	Stainless Steel

About this item

• 【Rub strakes length】2pcs rub strakes, with a length of 5.9in, offer good for mooring lines.
• 【Application】Wide range of applications, suitable for boats, yachts, RV and bathroom.
• 【Rub strakes Material】316 stainless steel, anticorrosion and , adapted to saltwater environment. Built to meet standard specification, strictly follow factory quality control.
• 【Polished Appearance】Highly polished surface, smooth without burrs, perfectly matched with modern ships. Beautifully polished surface like mirror appearance
• 【Buy With Comfortable】We are committed to create the best product service for each customer and Provide the Quality Assurance and the Money Back Guarantee to ensure that you can buy it without any concern, If this product does not meet your expectations, please feel to us, we will try the best to deal with till you satisfied.

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Product Description

Polished Appearance Highly polished surface, smooth without burrs, perfectly matched with modern ships. Beautifully polished surface like mirror appearance

1. 2pcs rub strakes, with a length of 5.9in, offer good protection for mooring lines.

2. Wide range of applications, suitable for boats, yachts, RV and bathroom.

3. 316 stainless steel, anti‑corrosion and, adapted to saltwater environment.

4. Highly polished surface, smooth without burrs, perfectly matched with modern ships.

5. Built to meet standard specification, strictly follow factory quality control.

Specification:

Item Type: Rub Strake

Material: Marine Grade 316 Stainless Steel

Length: Approx. 150mm/5.9in

Fitment: for boat & yacht & RV & bathroom

Mounting: Fixed with screws

Package List:

2 x Rub Strake

Product information

Technical details.

Material	‎Stainless Steel
Color	‎#56780
Brand	‎Ymiko
Vehicle Service Type	‎RV, Watercraft
Fastener Material	‎Stainless Steel
Number of Pieces	‎2
Manufacturer	‎Ymiko
Unit Count	‎2.0 Count
Item Weight	‎3.17 ounces
Product Dimensions	‎0.39 x 0.39 x 0.39 inches
Manufacturer Part Number	‎Ymikoh30awd41mu383

Additional Information

ASIN	B095YW8BQ7
Customer Reviews	3.4 out of 5 stars
Best Sellers Rank	#619,868 in Sports & Outdoors ( ) #2,996 in
Date First Available	May 27, 2021

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Amazon.com Return Policy: You can return many items you have purchased within 30 days following delivery of the item to you. Our Voluntary 30-Day Return Guarantee does not affect your legal right of withdrawal in any way. You can find out more about the exceptions and conditions .

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Stainless Steel Rubbing Strakes

Mirror polished 316 stainless steel boat rubbing strake lengths with pre-drilled counter sunk fixing holes and tapered ends to protect your boat and prevent unwanted wear.

Stainless Steel Rubbing Strake - 150mm

Stainless steel rubbing strake - 200mm, stainless steel rubbing strake - 300mm, stainless steel rubbing strake - 450mm, stainless steel rubbing strake - 650mm, stainless steel rubbing strake - 960mm.

Mirror polished 316 stainless steel boat rubbing strake lengths with pre-drilled counter sunk fixing holes and tapered ends to protect your boat and prevent unwanted wear to gelcoat, fibreglass, painted surfaces, steel, wood or more.

Available in various lengths, this convex curve boat rubbing strake or wear stripe can be installed in numerous locations and applications to help prevent damage. Can be used where more ropes tend to rub to prevent polishing or abrasion of the area as the ropes tension and release when moored. Or, these stainless steel stripes can be used on impact areas such as the stern corners or mooring pole locations.

Specification

Length	150mm	200mm	300mm	450mm	650mm	960mm
Height	20mm	20mm	20mm	20mm	20mm	20mm
Depth	5mm	5mm	5mm	5mm	5mm	5mm
Material	Polished 316 Stainless Steel

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ISURE MARINE 2PCS 316 Stainless Steel 8”Polished Line Rub Strakes for Marine Boat Yacht Mooring Lines Protection

$ 15.99

• Description
• Reviews (0)
• ➤Made of 316 stainless steel for durability & resistance to rust and corrosion.
• ➤Width:1″;Optional length:8″/12″,Please refer to the size of the picture
• ➤Excellent for protecting gelcoat or teak trim from dock line wear or for bridle cleat lines to protect the toe rail on flats skiff.
• ➤Ideal chafe protection with or without use of extruded Rub Rail.
• ➤Prevent dock, fender and anchor lines from chafing from cap rails, gunwales,widely used in yachts,larger boats,especially with heavy lines.

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Protect dropside : Alternatives to wooden rubbing strakes

Nico Krauss

 ·  24.11.2022

In this article:

PVC and stainless steel systems for screwing and clipping

Wood reproductions, temporary solutions.

In the past, the rubbing strake was often used to conceal the connection between the hull and deck and was standard basic equipment. In the meantime, the classic hull-deck connection has given way to an adhesive flange at many shipyards. This is located at the edge of the running deck and no longer needs to be hidden, which often means the end of practical scuff protection.

Notable exceptions are shipyards such as Hallberg-Rassy. For decades, the Swedes have relied on rubbing strakes moulded directly into the hull. This complicates mould construction and laminating work, and the narrow profiles tend to have air pockets. However, if the work is done carefully, the result is a very robust rubbing strake. As the fenders usually rest against the moulding, the system also protects against fine scratches from the rubber. The opposite approach is to use metal strips that are just a few millimetres thick, such as those found on X-Yachts or the current Dehler models. This looks elegant, but offers little protection.

Many owners are therefore faced with the task of finding a Retrofitting a scuff plate . The classic material is wood, but robust teak in particular is expensive and ethically questionable. However, there are alternatives for every taste and budget.

The rubbing strakes from Tessilmare and Wilks are particularly popular with motorboat shipyards. Both manufacturers offer extensive ranges which, depending on the model, are also suitable for retrofitting to sailing yachts. The mouldings usually consist of a support profile and a clip-on cover. There are versions for concealing the hull-deck connection and for mounting on smooth surfaces. Depending on the variant and thickness of the strip, a metre costs between 14 and 99 euros.

Most models can be bent around tight radii, which is practical when covering a hull-deck joint. You can easily fit them yourself as no special tools are required. The flexible plastic profiles are supplied as a ring. Only the metal versions Sphaera and Binox have joints. Tessilmare is distributed by Pfeiffer Marine. Wilks is available from Rüegg.

If you are looking for the look of a teak skirting board but don't want to install real wood, you will find alternatives from the manufacturers of PVC decking. First and foremost Flexiteek. The Norwegians offer special skirting board profiles in various dimensions. The most common size measures 40 by 20 millimetres and is supplied in ten-metre lengths. The ring costs around 370 euros. The wood grain is created when the PVC material is sanded with 60 grit.

A classic wieling is the easiest way to protect the ship's side. A thick mooring rope is suitable for this purpose, which is tied off in the harbour. Liros offers such a ready-made product under the name Bumperline. Five metres cost around 130 euros.

The long fenders from Seaeq also protect against scratches. When spread out, an area of around 2.1 by 0.4 metres can be padded with the 2.5 centimetre thick mat. When folded, the package is so firm that it can be used as a fender board. Price: 170 euros.

More on the topic:

• Protection for the dropside: retrofitting scuff plates - This is how it works!
• Reconditioning: How to make the teak deck look like new again
• Winterising a sailing boat: the most important tips for the end of the season

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Restoration of Nereis part 1 – Rubbing strakes

Work is under way to restore editor Dan Houston’s 1936 FBR Brown teak sloop back to how he remembers her from childhood, when she belonged to his father. From CB217

Fitting new rubbing strakes can give a boat a fantastic new look, augmenting her sheer with a clean line for the eye.

1 The old teak rubbing strakes on Nereis were battered and bruised from 70 years of protecting her deck planks and topsides – they needed replacing. The first step, after sourcing our teak from Timbmet, was to cut six lengths – 25⁄8 by 11⁄4in (66 x 32mm) – suitable for scarphing together to make each long strake.

2 We needed perfectly square edges. So we set the strakes against a known square piece of oak on the overhand planer and used the edge to put them through the thicknesser, leaving us with four true right angles. This took two hours but was necessary to create true edges for a scarph.

3 To mark the scarphs, we measured the strakes at 8in (200mm). The rule is 8:1 (length to thickness) for hardwood; 10:1 for softwood. All scarphs lead aft. Where we could, we matched the outside edge of the grain of the pieces. This helps make a scarph invisible.

4 We made a jig for the crosscut saw to form an 8:1 scarph and clamped the end of the strakes in this for cutting.

5 The end result is a perfectly cut and square scarph ready for gluing.

6 We set up both strakes on top of each other as straight and flat as possible. We clamped the planks in place away from the scarph to prevent slipping while we applied the Balcotan glue. Be sure to separate the strakes from each other and the bench with plastic to stop them sticking together. Then clamp the scarphs, checking for a good fit.

7 The strakes are ready – in 34ft (11m) lengths – the next day. We set up a jig for them to be routered into shape. We found aluminium square-shaped ducts for this in Pepe’s boatyard to hold the strakes while we pushed them through the router. We did this twice for each side of a strake, making eight passes in all and giving a good quality finish. This is essential as the router can rip into the wood, especially around knots – and with timber at this price you cannot afford to make a mistake! We put a secure fence in front and above the workpiece on the router table to prevent this.

8 We finished the strakes with a belt sander and then used sandpaper by hand to expose the grain and create a superb finish.

9 The next job is to mark the strakes for screw holes. We used pieces of timber to mark an 8in (200mm) gauge in two offset rows, on the upper edge of the bevel.

10 Replacing the router with a bench drill we then pulled the strakes through the jig again putting counterbores into the teak at a depth of 1cm. Where a hole might be on the edge of the scarph joint, we moved it along onto clean timber.

11 The next stage was to drill clearance holes through the counterbores with a cordless drill. We would be using 2.5in (663mm), size 12, slotted stainless screws to fix the strakes to the boat so the clearance holes were 6mm.

12 The finished strakes, with their staggered screw holes every 4 inches (100mm) either side of the bevel, were now ready to be put onto the boat.

13 We put a loop of rope over the stern sections and sat the end of the strake in this. We also tied them off, with string, at the chainplates, to bring them a centimetre below the deck edge.

14 Drilling a few pilot holes (4mm), we used crosshead screws to tack the strakes in place and left them to settle for two days.

15 After drilling all the pilot holes, we then put a bead of Sikaflex at the top edge of the strake, so water cannot run into the join.

16 Working fore to aft, we replaced the holding screws (one every four or five holes, say) and fastened the strake permanently with the stainless screws. This process tightens the strake hard against the hull with the upper screws going into the sheerstrake and the lowers going up into the deck boards, helping to clamp the deck to the hull; augmenting the strength of the glassfibre deck covering, which runs some 2in (50mm) over the side.

17 The last job is to cut plugs made of old teak and put them in over the holes ready for chiselling off. We used varnish as a glue for the plugs. (It’ll be easier to get them out if we ever want to later.) These were then sanded flush. The end result, top picture, sets off the sheer.

Find out about Dan Houston’s restoration of Neresis by reading the articles below:

Restoration of Nereis part 1 – Rubbing strakes

Restoration of Nereis part 2 – Portholes

Restoration of Nereis part 3 – The Interior

Restoration of Nereis part 4 – The anchor winch

Restoration of Nereis part 5 – Boom and mast

Restoration of Nereis part 6 – Launch day

Restoration of Nereis part 7 – Electrics

Restoration of Nereis part 8 – Thinking of things to don’t

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Author
Westcoast Commander	Posted: 08 February 2017 at 08:50
	and  forums for ideas. Please share if you have any proposals. /Westcoast Edited by Westcoast - 08 February 2017 at 09:28
Scotchmist Captain	Posted: 08 February 2017 at 13:34
371 Hull # 120 Lieutenant	Posted: 09 February 2017 at 16:08
Scotchmist Captain	Posted: 10 February 2017 at 10:08
Fendant Admiral	Posted: 10 February 2017 at 12:06
Westcoast Commander	Posted: 12 February 2017 at 18:17
	Edited by Westcoast - 12 February 2017 at 18:18
Westcoast Commander	Posted: 28 March 2017 at 12:51
	Edited by Westcoast - 28 March 2017 at 12:53
371 Hull # 120 Lieutenant	Posted: 28 March 2017 at 17:10
Westcoast Commander	Posted: 03 July 2019 at 18:07
	The original rub rails are of very poor quality so to buy the same again was not an option. We bought the fender list  from  . You can get it in white, grey or black. There is a number of sizes available. It took in total some 40-50 hours to remove the old rub rails and the old Sikaflex, to mount the lower insert and the rub rail and to replace all Sikaflex with Illbruck/Tremco SP054. At the same time we also replaced the Sikaflex under the toerail. A friend of ours with a Hanse 341 did the same update last year. We are both very satisfied with the product, it looks very nice as is solid. Links: /Westcoast Hanse 371 #275 Edited by Westcoast - 03 July 2019 at 18:08
PekkaL Commander	Posted: 27 August 2020 at 19:12
	." Which way did you install the profile? ". Instead of screwing did you use Illbruck/Tremco SP054 for fastening the profile instead of screws?

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Rubbing strake maintenance

• Thread starter cgaa186
• Start date 19 Mar 2006
• 19 Mar 2006

This is a bit basic but .. Bought our first cruiser last year (Sabre 27 from the early seventies) and are coming to terms with the maintenance! One problem is that the varnish on the rubbing strake is flaking off and underneath there are some fairly large cracks, also small gaps in some places between rubbing strake and hull perhaps where some kind of sealant of filler has fallen out. I *think* the rubbing strake is made of teak, and on that basis thought to scrape off the old varnish and leave it bare and let it fend for itself. However .... - how can you tell whether it is teak, really? (Colour below the varnish is yellowish with bits of grey) - what to do about the cracks in the wood? Attempt to clean out and fill with some kind of epoxy filler? - what to do gaps between strake and hull? Try to squeeze in some kind of sealant, e.g. sikaflex?  

Well-known member

My previous boat had a teak/iroko rubbing strake with flaking varnish. I scraped/lightly sanded off the varnish, cleaned it with teak cleaner and oiled it. Oiling (teak oil or Danish oil) every year only takes a few minutes. Some people prefer just to leave it to go grey. Either way is fine but I feel that oil helps to maintain it a bit better. I'm not an expert on wood repairs so no doubt others will give good advice regarding this. My feelings are to fill in larger chunks of damage with suitably shaped pieces of teak (if necessary enlarge and shape the damaged area first) and use a coloured wood filler for the minor blemishes.  

Got one of your relatives in the beck behind our cottage.  

• 20 Mar 2006

Active member

I had similar situation. Used Sikaflex as you also speculated. My cracks were the scarfs joints in the strake. I wanted to keep water out so they didn't get worse - structurally they were fine - so masking tape so seal off vertical crack and then poured in slightly thickened epoxy from the top to run into the joint; needed to do it three times to top it up. If you need to cut in bits of wood sharp tools are essential. I'd have a couple of different size good quality chisels, sharpen them several times at least. It's usually easiest to cut out the bit that fits in first; lay it on the strake and mark round then cut out the recess. Don't know about getting epoxy with filler coloured to match the wood, but that way of doing it should work as well. You could tar the lot to discourage rafting up. Yellow colour sounds like teak.  

john_morris_uk

[ QUOTE ] You could tar the lot to discourage rafting up. [/ QUOTE ] What's wrong with rafting up? If you want to make provocative remarks, why not start another thread?  

Before you fill the gaps between the rubbing strake and the hull, check that the strake isn't loose. You may need to tighten nuts to draw it back in. Any gap can be filled with one of the Sikaflex products. from memory, some of these are available in teak colour and are sandable when dry.  

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Ferretti Yachts and Riva to attend Moscow Boat Show 2013

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Written by Zuzana Bednarova

To be represented by Premium Yachts, Ferretti Yachts and Riva , two prestigious brands of the Ferretti Group, will be present at the Moscow International Boat Show 2013, displaying motor yacht Ferretti 530 as well as Riva Iseo yacht tender.

Luxury motor yacht Ferretti 530

Luxury yacht Ferretti 530 was very keen to undertake in collaboration once again with AYT – Advanced Yacht Technology, Ferretti Group Engineering Division and Studio Zuccon International Project . The compact dimensions, 16 meters long and almost 5 meters wide, allow the 530 yacht to deliver grand Italian luxury and cruising immersed in such comfort until now unheard of in a yacht of this size.

Ferretti 530 yacht boasts three revolutionary innovations: the full beam master cabin with chaise longue and two large open view windows that make it a real suite at sea level bathed in light, tones and the natural essences of teak. Moving the galley from the center to the aft section creates a unique open space that includes the saloon, galley, cocktail bar and the dining area, the cockpit area continues thanks to the tilting window. The roll bar free sky lounge and the spoiler allow the 530 a sporty appearance combined with elegantly formal lines.

Ferretti 530 Yacht - Interior

Riva , the iconic Ferretti Group brand, presented a new model at the historical Lake d’Iseo shipyards in July 2011. Featuring elegance and ease of transportation as its distinctive characteristics, Iseo superyacht tender , a 27 foot runabout, is destined to become a must-have for those who love cruising on both lakes and the sea, and, most importantly, design enthusiasts. It is also perfect for anyone wishing to enhance their yacht with an exclusive tender that will never go unnoticed.

Riva Iseo superyacht tender

Due to its ease of manoeuvrability and size, Iseo yacht tender is also ideal as a tender for large yachts. Innovative and elegant, it can also guarantee comfort in bad weather conditions. Besides the electrohydraulic bimini top, it was also designed with a waterproof, automobile-style soft top which protects those on board against water and the wind during cruising.

Please contact CharterWorld - the luxury yacht charter specialist - for more on superyacht news item "Ferretti Yachts and Riva to attend Moscow Boat Show 2013".

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Osculati	Dimensions	Number of drill holes
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Sale yacht in Moscow

36 yachts for sale in moscow, customer reviews, popular destinations.

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Moscow is the largest city and historical capital of Russia, the country's most popular tourist center and the center of the Russian Orthodox Church. In this metropolis, antiquity and modernity are whimsically combined, numerous cultural and historical sights, viewing platforms and entertainment centers make it a center of attraction for tens of millions of tourists from all over the world.

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• Length 6.90 m
• Beam 2.50 m
• Draft 0.60 m

• Length 6.00 m
• Beam 2.00 m
• Draft 0.00 m

• Length 6.06 m
• Beam 2.36 m
• Draft 0.40 m

• Length 11.80 m
• Beam 3.00 m
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• Beam 2.40 m

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• Beam 2.60 m
• Draft 0.90 m

• Length 7.16 m
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• Beam 3.50 m
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• Beam 7.00 m
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• Length 8.60 m
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• Beam 4.90 m
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• Draft 0.59 m

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• Beam 5.80 m
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When planning to buy a yacht in Moscow , pay attention to the offers of 2yachts - we hope you will find a suitable option among current and profitable ads from direct sellers.

Sights of the Russian capital

On the territory of the largest city in Europe with a 9-century history, there are many interesting places and objects. Some of the best attractions of modern Moscow are:

• The Kremlin and Red Square, with which it is worth starting to get acquainted with the city;
• Arbat - the main tourist artery of Moscow;
• The business center of the city with skyscrapers is Moscow City with viewing platforms, including a 360-degree circular view of the capital;
• The Bolshoi Theater is one of the most significant in Russia and the world;
• Tretyakov Gallery with the world's largest collection of Russian painting;
• Ostankino TV Tower, the country's main television tower 540 m high with 2 viewing platforms - open type and glazed at different levels;
• St. Basil's Cathedral (Cathedral of the Protection of the Holy Virgin);
• The historical district of the capital is Kitay Gorod.

It is also worth visiting the river berths, beaches (in Rublevo, Strogino and Serebryany Bor) of the Moscow River, Kolomenskoye Museum-Reserve, Moskarium Oceanography Center, Novodevichy Convent, Moscow Planetarium, Darwin Museum, Zaryadye Natural Landscape Park and Exhibition of Achievements of National Economy (VDNH).

The best restaurants in Moscow: Pushkin, Balzi rossi, Wine & Crab, Osteria della Piazza Bianca, White Rabbit, Björn, Northerners, Beluga, Lavkalavka and others.

Yachting in Moscow

You can leave your yacht parked in Moscow at the pier of one of the many yacht clubs on the banks of the Moscow River and the Khimki Reservoir - for example, on the territory of the Yacht Port “Estate Port” with 36 berths for vessels up to 15 m long or in CHALET RIVER CLUB yacht club on the border with the Moscow region with 57 berths for vessels up to 17 m long and with a draft of up to 1.7 m. If you are interested in selling yachts in Moscow , we recommend that you use the services of one of the trusted yacht brokers in the region, for example - PRESTIGE YACHTS, ULTRABOATS, IY C or WEST NAUTICAL.

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