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A Week On The Wrist The Rolex Yachtmaster 40mm With Oysterflex Bracelet

For the first time, rolex is delivering a watch on a rubber strap – except in classic rolex fashion it's not a rubber strap at all. it's a beautifully over-engineered bracelet called the oysterflex..

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There is big news, and there is Rolex big news, and in some ways, ne'er the twain shall meet. At Baselworld this year, Rolex debuted a first for the company: the very first, ever, Rolex delivered on a rubber strap. Now, for most companies this would have little effect on watch enthusiasts other than to evoke (very) tepid interest at best, and boredom at worst – but this is not an ordinary rubber strap, this is an official, designed-and-tested-and-thoroughly-obsessed-over-by-Rolex rubber strap. And thereby hangs a tale.

The Yachtmaster, as we have mentioned in some of our previous coverage , occupies a somewhat particular place in Rolex’s lineup of sports watches; it shares water-resistance and a turning bezel with the Submariner (the latter is water resistant to 300 m while the Yachtmaster standard model is water resistant to 100 m). It is certainly not a tool watch; the Yachtmaster is offered in either platinum and steel, or gold and steel (that’s Rolesium and Rolesor, lest we forget) and is either quietly or unequivocally luxurious depending on what size and metal you go for (Rolex makes the Yachtmaster in both 35 mm and 40 mm sizes). 

The Yachtmaster’s history goes back to the first introduction of the watch in 1992, although the name, interestingly enough, appears on the dial of a prototype Yachtmaster Chronograph from the late 1960s (a watch so legendary I am actually forced to use the word; one of three known is in the collection of Mr. John Goldberger; we covered it – and a host of other remarkable ultra-rare watches from his collection – in a very memorable episode of Talking Watches ).

The term “Yachtmaster” is also, incidentally, used for a certificate of competency in yachting which is issued by the Royal Yachting Association, although we’re unaware of any specific association between the RYA and the Yachtmaster watch.

Now, this newest version of the Yachtmaster does take a few pages from the existing Yachtmaster playbook: 100-meter water resistance, a bidirectional turning bezel, and a dial and hands that echo the Submariner. There are also a couple of features that may make vintage Sub enthusiasts wonder if Rolex mightn’t have an exceedingly subtle sense of humor; the gilt coronet and “Rolex,” and the red lettering, both features which according to HODINKEE founder Ben Clymer would have, had they appeared on a Rolex dive watch, made it instantly the single most popular watch in the modern Rolex inventory. The case is rose gold – Rolex famously makes their own, called Everose, in their own foundry, with a bit of platinum mixed in to prevent discoloration – and the bezel, rather than being some other precious metal (as is the case in the “standard” Yachtmasters) is in black Cerachrom – a very technical-looking matte black that contrasts sharply with the gold case. Somehow, between the rose gold, the Cerachrom bezel, and the new Oysterflex bracelet this manages to be the most luxurious and at the same time most technical Yachtmaster yet (leaving aside the Yachtmaster II, which we recently reviewed right here , but that is a watch that marches to the beat of a different drummer entirely).

The two different versions of the Everose Yachtmaster (40 mm and 37 mm) sport different movements; the larger uses the caliber 3135 and the smaller, the newer 2236, which sports the “Syloxi” silicon balance spring (first used by Rolex in 2014).

The Oysterflex bracelet is, in a nutshell, quite a piece of work. One of the most endearing traits of Rolex as a company is that it tends to demonstrate what we can only describe as a laudable degree of corporate obsessive-compulsive disorder when it comes to research and development, and it does so, often, without making any sort of fanfare about it at all. In this case we do know a little bit about the Oysterflex, however – it is basically designed to have the hypoallergenic and comfort properties of a rubber strap and the durability and shape-retention properties of a bracelet. 

At the core of the Oysterflex bracelet are metal inserts made of titanium and nickel, which are used to affix the bracelet to the clasp and watch case; over those is a sheathing of “high-performance black elastomer.” “Elastomer” is a portmanteau word, formed from “elastic” and “polymer” and is a general term for natural and synthetic rubbers. In addition to the materials complexity of the Oysterflex bracelet, it is also shaped in a rather unusual fashion – there are ridges molded into the the wristward face of the bracelet, which are intended to allow the bracelet when worn to better approximate the natural curvature of the wrist.

They might look a bit odd but in practice, the design works out quite wonderfully; this is easily the most downright comfortable and organic-feeling rubber strap I have ever worn, and like the entire watch manages to be both extremely technical in feel, and very luxurious at the same time; I doubt whether any company has ever taken so much trouble over the design of a strap (for all that Rolex prefers the term “bracelet” in describing the Oysterflex, habit dies hard and you’ll probably find yourself calling it a strap, just as we did). On the wrist, the two stabilizing ridges do exactly what they are supposed to: keep the watch from shifting, as heavier watches on rubber straps are wont to do, without requiring you to have the strap uncomfortably tight. The Everose Oysterlock clasp does a superb job mechanically and also looks fabulous into the bargain; the quality of finish on the clasp and case may not seem terribly elaborate at first, but it is as technically flawless as anything I have ever seen at any price, on any watch.

What we have here, in other words, is a very Rolex interpretation of luxury. Yes, this is a gold watch, and a gold Rolex, and wearing a gold Rolex always carries with it, shall we say, certain semiotic complexities. However there is also another side to the watch, and to the Rolex approach to luxury in general: the taking of such pains to produce technical perfection that technical perfection becomes a luxury in itself.

The Everose Rolex Yachtmaster, in Rolex Everose, with Everose Oysterclasp and Oysterflex bracelet, as shown, $22,000 in 37 mm, and $24,950 in 40 mm. For more info, check out Rolex.com.

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Oyster Perpetual

Rolex Yacht-Master Marine character

Launched in 1992, the Yacht-Master was designed specifically for navigators and skippers . This Professional-category watch provides a perfect blend of functionality and nautical style, making it equally at home on and off the water.

The Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master embodies the privileged ties between Rolex and the world of sailing that stretch back to the 1950s. Specially designed to meet the needs of sailors, it is a technical, elegant and sporty watch that is above all a useful and reliable nautical instrument.

An immediately recognizable bezel

The Yacht-Master is easily recognizable for its bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel made entirely from precious metal (Everose gold or platinum) or fitted with a black Cerachrom insert in high-technology ceramic. The raised polished graduations and numerals stand out clearly against a matt background. This characteristic and functional bezel – which enables the wearer to read time intervals, for example, the sailing time between two buoys – plays a full part in creating the unique visual identity of the watch.

Exclusive materials

Robust, accurate and perfectly waterproof, the Yacht-Master is one of the only Rolex Professional watches offered in several diameters (37, 40 and 42 mm). The Yacht-Master 37 and Yacht-Master 40 are available in a Rolesium version (combining Oystersteel and platinum, exclusive to the Yacht-Master range) and in an Everose Rolesor version (combining Oystersteel and Everose gold) with a bezel in precious metal and fitted with an Oyster bracelet. Both models are also offered in 18 ct Everose gold featuring a Cerachrom bezel insert in black ceramic and an Oysterflex bracelet.

The Yacht-Master 42 is available in 18 ct yellow or white gold with an Oysterflex bracelet and in RLX titanium – a particularly lightweight alloy with excellent corrosion-resistance properties and high mechanical strength – with an Oyster bracelet. This version, unveiled in 2023, stands out for its technical satin finish, a finish with a visible grain.

Perpetual calibres 2236 and 3235

Yacht-Master models are equipped with calibre 2236 (Yacht-Master 37) or calibre 3235 (Yacht-Master 40 and Yacht-Master 42), self-winding mechanical movements entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. They offer outstanding performance, particularly in terms of precision, power reserve, convenience and reliability. Both movements’ power reserve extends to approximately 70 hours.

Superlative Chronometer certification

Like all Rolex timepieces, the Yacht-Master is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification. This designation testifies that every watch leaving the brand’s workshops has successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories, according to its own criteria. The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolized by a green seal and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.

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czwartek, 20 stycznia 2011

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Oyster Perpetual

Yacht-Master

Seguire la rotta, una mappa dalle vie invisibili.

In mare, seguire la rotta è una sfida costante. Quando si affrontano gli elementi non esistono certezze ed è necessario saper reagire sempre con prontezza per non deviare dalla giusta direzione. Dal suo lancio, nel 1992, l’Oyster Perpetual Yacht‑Master è dotato di una lunetta girevole bidirezionale che facilita il calcolo e la lettura dei tempi di navigazione. Elegante connubio di funzionalità e stile nautico, questo orologio si è imposto ben oltre l’universo professionale per cui è nato.

Una ricerca condivisa della precisione

Durante la navigazione è vitale sapere dove ci si trova nello spazio e nel tempo, poter fissare una rotta e seguirla. L’orologio, considerata la sua funzione, è dunque uno strumento essenziale per i navigatori in quanto consente loro di determinare la propria posizione. Ritenuti gli strumenti orologieri più precisi al mondo, i cronometri da marina hanno cominciato a essere sottoposti al vaglio degli osservatori astronomici per essere certificati sin dal XVIII secolo. A quei tempi, la massima autorità in materia di precisione cronometrica era l’Osservatorio di Kew, in Gran Bretagna.

Nel 1914 il fondatore di Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf, fece testare uno degli orologi del Marchio proprio da questo osservatorio, che gli conferì la certificazione di cronometro: era la prima volta che un orologio da polso otteneva un tale riconoscimento. Da allora, celebri navigatori come Sir Francis Chichester e Bernard Moitessier hanno solcato i mari utilizzando orologi da polso Rolex come cronometri di bordo.

Eguagliare la precisione dei cronometri da marina era fondamentale per l’orologeria Rolex.

Progettato per i navigatori

La vela occupa un posto speciale nel mondo di Rolex. Nel 1958, il Marchio diventa partner del New York Yacht Club, fondatore della leggendaria America’s Cup. Rolex avvia poi collaborazioni con diversi prestigiosi club nautici di tutto il mondo e stringe legami con i principali appuntamenti velici, regate costiere e d’altura.

Nel 1992, questi solidi legami culminano nel lancio dello Yacht‑Master, un cronometro che reca in sé tutta la robustezza e l’impermeabilità della cassa Oyster e, per agevolare il calcolo e la lettura dei tempi di navigazione, è dotato di una lunetta bidirezionale graduata 60 minuti in rilievo.

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Prezioso sulla terraferma e in mare

Proposto in tre dimensioni – 37, 40 e 42 mm – e declinato in diverse versioni preziose – oro 18 ct giallo, bianco ed Everose – nonché nelle versioni Rolesor Everose e Rolesium, lo Yacht‑Master spicca nella linea di orologi Professionali Rolex per la sua unicità. Questo orologio elegante dal carattere sportivo è stato il primo, nel 2015, ad essere abbinato a un bracciale Oysterflex.

Nel 2023, dopo averlo testato in condizioni reali al polso dell’acclamato timoniere Sir Ben Ainslie, Rolex ha lanciato lo Yacht‑Master 42 in una nuova versione in titanio RLX, un materiale ad alte prestazioni che offre al contempo leggerezza, robustezza e resistenza alla corrosione.

Oltre ad essere un prezioso alleato in mare, lo Yacht‑Master è anche un emblema di eleganza da indossare una volta fatto ritorno sulla terraferma. Un modello che, con le sue molteplici declinazioni, trascende le sue origini nautiche ed è diventato l’orologio di chi sa cambiare rotta e muoversi in libertà senza perdere di vista l’orizzonte.

Yacht-Master 42

Oyster, 42 mm, oro giallo.