stanchion spacing sailboat

Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

How safe are your guardrails?

• Stef Bottinelli
• March 3, 2016

Check them with these handy tips from the UK’s leading yacht refit experts

Imagine a pitching foredeck at night with nothing to prevent you sliding off the deck. Guardrails and stanchions can save your life, so it’s essential to make sure they are in good condition.

Ian Nicholson’s industry reference, The Boat Data Book , gives good advice: for a yacht up to 12m LOA, use wires of at least 4mm diameter in 316 grade stainless steel, 1×19 construction and a maximum stanchion spacing of 2.2m. Industry standard stanchion height (for boats up to 15m LOA) is 610mm, but some serious cruisers have stanchions of 800 to 900 mm. In addition:

Guardwires should not be PVC-coated. The wires should be visible and need end fittings and tensioning methods at least as strong as the breaking load of the wire. Adjustment arrangements can include simple lashings, turnbuckles or integrated, adjustable forks.

Lashings must be replaced regularly . UV degradation weakens them over time. Turnbuckles and other adjusters should be regularly checked. Guardwires should be tight enough so they do not sag between stanchions, but not so tight to cause wear spots as they pass through the stanchions.

Terminals should be secured fore and aft with clevis pins and split pins , which should be fully opened and either taped over or covered with a bead of silicone sealant to prevent them catching on sheets and sails. Split rings should not be used as they open too easily.

Wires should be regularly checked. If damaged, they must be replaced. Stanchions should be securely fastened to the deck and if bent or damaged, they should be repaired or replaced.

Berthon are safety experts. For more on this important aspect, go to: www.Berthon.co.uk/safety

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A Strong Stanchion to Save Your Life

• By John Vigor
• Updated: August 7, 2002

Lifeline stanchions take a terrible beating. They’re long, thin and almost impossible to install with any pretense of engineering integrity. They might have been designed as levers to pry open a deck. In fact, whenever someone shoves a boat off a dock with a hearty thrust to a stanchion, that’s exactly what can happen. In a fiberglass deck, stanchion movement can cause crazing and cracking in the gel coat. In a wood deck, movement will strain the fasteners and loosen the base, disturbing the bedding compound that forms a vital waterproof seal.

In each case, saltwater and rainwater leaks result. Telltale brown stains then will appear inside lockers, above the pilot berth, or on the cabin liner, usually (but not necessarily) directly beneath a stanchion. Leaks can run along stringers and liners, emerging some distance from the source. But leak damage isn’t just cosmetic. It can rot interior woodwork or saturate a deck core, leading to delamination, structural degradation and costly repairs.

A leak signals that you need to rebed your stanchion bases. If they were properly fitted in the first place, this is not a big job. You can do one at a time, but it’s wiser to rebed them all at once. When one springs a leak, chances are the others won’t be far behind.

Some stanchions are two-piece affairs with separate bases and upright posts. Some are bolted through the base plate only and others are reinforced with attachments to a bulwark or high toe rail (which makes them substantially stronger). Whatever the make-up, these are the key elements of good stanchion installation:

• Backing pads spread stress loads.
• Flexible bedding compound seals joints against leaks and, in a cored deck, sealed bolt holes keep the core dry.
• Stainless steel bolts/nuts/washers give strength and security.

Keeping these basics in mind, here’s a step-by-step guide to rebedding a stanchion base:

Step 1 Remove the wire lifelines. Remove the stanchion from its base (if the two are not integral) by unscrewing the retaining nuts or removing the cotter pins. Lay it aside. Place masking tape flush alongside the edges of the base and tamp down firmly.

Step 2 Remove interior trim or headliner to expose the nuts holding the stanchion base in place. Remove the nuts with a wrench. You may need a helper on deck with a large screwdriver to stop the bolt from turning. Withdraw the bolts and inspect for pitting or crevice corrosion. If need be, replace with new stainless steel bolts of the same size (but at least 1/4-inch in diameter).

Step 3 Lift the stanchion base from the deck, prying gently with a wide screwdriver if necessary. Gently scrape bedding compound off deck and bottom of base. Wash away remaining bedding compound with solvent (paint thinner or mineral spirits if it was an older, linseed oil-based marine putty such as Dolfinite bedding compound; or acetone if it was polysulfide or silicone).

Step 4 Thoroughly sand the deck inside the masking tape with 120-grit paper, taking care not to sand the tape itself, protecting it if necessary with a piece of Formica or similar held in place. Sand the bottom of the base, too.

Step 5 If necessary, prepare a new backing plate. For materials, use at least 3/32-inch-thick stainless steel, 1/8-inch aluminum or 3/16-inch marine plywood. It should be 50 percent longer and wider than the stanchion base, if possible. Place the base on top of the backing plate and mark for holes. Drill holes in the backing plate 1/16-inch larger than the bolt diameter, to allow for bolt drift.

Step 6 For decks cored with balsa or foam, and if the edges of the bolt holes have not been sealed with epoxy to prevent water ingress, there is an additional step to insert here. With a drill, ream out the existing bolt holes through the deck about 3/32-inch larger than the bolt diameter. Tape the bottom of the holes, but prick a small hole through the middle of the tape with dividers or a large needle. Mix a small quantity of epoxy resin with a bonding powder to the consistency of peanut butter and fill the bolt holes, forcing the resin down from the deck until a tiny worm of putty squeezes through the air holes in the tape. Allow the epoxy to cure. Then, using the base plate as a template, carefully re-drill the original-size holes through the middle of the epoxy.

Step 7 Cover the deck area outlined by masking tape with a generous layer of polysulfide sealant such as Boatlife’s Life Calk or 3M 101 marine sealant. Silicone may also be used to bed the base, but polysulfide is the preferred sealant. Polyurethane bedding compound should not be used because it is a powerful adhesive that makes subsequent removal of the base difficult, and will likely cause structural damage to the deck. (Note: Sikaflex claims this effect won’t occur with its less adhesive 231 polyurethane formula and says it’s suitable for bedding deck fittings.)

Step 8 Smear the bottom of the base with a layer of polysulfide sealant. Also smear sealant under the heads of the bolts. Place the base in position and drop the bolts through. Line up the slots in the bolt heads as required, but don’t turn the bolts again or you’ll destroy their waterproof seal. All tightening will be done from inside.

Step 9 Down below, fit the base plate and the washers, and screw on the nuts while a helper holds the bolts in place on deck. Tighten the nuts only until a fat bead of compound oozes out all around the edges of the base. Remove the excess compound with a putty knife or scraper and a rag soaked in mineral spirits, then smooth the sealant against the edges of the base with a finger or a plastic spoon.

Step 10 Allow the sealant to cure according to the manufacturer’s instructions. This could take anywhere from 48 hours to a week. With a helper again on deck to prevent the bolts from turning, tighten the nuts home one by one. Replace the stanchion post in its base and rerig and tension the lifelines.

Stanchions rebedded in this manner will provide many years of good service and add substantially to the security of the deck lifeline system.

Safety-At-Sea Note: The American Boat and Yacht Council suggests that the entire lifeline installation be capable of withstanding a ÒstaticÓ force of about 600 lbs.

In his book Surveying Small Craft, British author Ian Nicolson warns owners to watch out for stanchions secured with screws. All deck fittings should be thru-bolted, he says.

Furthermore, as far as stanchions are concerned, surveyors agree “that there should be underdeck pads to take the nuts and washers, almost regardless of what construction material is used. Mass-produced boats need adequate checking, because there is a tendency to omit these pads or locate them carelessly so that the bolts do not pass through the pads.”

Nicolson advocates using backing pads on top of the deck, between deck and stanchion base, and below the deck.

Dan Spurr, author of Upgrading The Cruising Sailboat, warns that stanchions should be made of stainless steel pipe, not tubing, and should have lock nuts under the deck. “Stanchions should be welded or thru-bolted to their bases, because Allen set screws only dimple the metal, at best, and are not very secure,” he writes.

To keep the exterior of the stanchion base smooth or to prevent damage to a chromed base, you may want to drill only the stanchion. Mark the position of the set screw with the stanchion in place. Remove the stanchion and center punch the spot, then drill and tap it to receive a machine screw. To use the Allen set screw, drill partially through the stanchion to provide a recess into which the set screw can securely sit. Always use LokTite or a similar product on the threads of the bolts, machine screws or set screws to keep them from working loose.

If there are only three holes in a round stanchion base, locate two holes inboard, Spurr advises. The stanchion will better be able to withstand a sudden outward thrust.

———————————————————————— John Vigor is a regular contributor to Cruising World

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Replacing Your Lifelines

Published by rigworks on april 8, 2016.

Question:  What are my options for replacing worn lifelines?

From the Rigger: There are more choices than ever when replacing worn lifelines…

Most lifelines are made of wire, usually uncoated 1×19 grade 316 stainless steel which is well suited for stationary applications such as lifelines. Diameters vary depending on the size of the boat. We generally use 1/8 ” wire for boats under 30’ and 3/16” for boats 30’ and longer, although there are exceptions (J-105s for example prefer 5/32”).  Of course, you can go heavier, but the extra weight can be prohibitive.

Boat owners are moving away from the vinyl covered 3/16” wire that has been the industry standard for years. In fact, the 2016 Safety Equipment Requirements no longer allow coated wire on coastal and ocean racing sailboats (there is a list of the 2016 racing SERs associated with lifelines at the end of this article). But if you don’t plan to race, you may still prefer the feel and appearance of coated wire. Vinyl coated wire’s primary advantage is that it is attractive and comfortable to handle. It can, however, discolor and crack over time, is susceptible to heat, and makes it difficult to inspect the wire underneath.

Synthetic lifelines made of low stretch Dyneema are becoming a popular alternative to wire. Dyneema, made of High Modulus Polyethylene (HMPE), is stronger and much lighter than steel. It is easy to install, can be spliced, doesn’t rust, and is easy to handle. Although it is more susceptible to chafing, chafe points can be protected with extra layers and/or tape. When converting from wire to Dyneema, be especially conscious of existing burrs on your stanchions, a common cause of chafing.  We recently installed Dyneema lifelines on a 38’ catamaran, and the customer was very happy with the results.

Regardless of whether you choose wire, coated wire, or Dyneema, we recommend that you always purchase high quality 316 grade fittings, including your turnbuckles, pelican hooks, gate eyes, toggle jaws, deck toggles, etc. We recommend Hayn, Johnson or Arco fittings which operate smoothly and withstand high loads.  We also suggest taping or pinning your fittings whenever possible. Sailors end up in the water as a result of fitting failures. Don’t scrimp here!

Your connections can be hand crimped, machine swaged, or spliced (in the case of Dyneema lines). Hand crimping is the least expensive “do-it-yourself” option but not our first choice. Hand crimping often leaves a bulky joint and can be susceptible to pulling free under load. We often see poorly/under-crimped connections which are definitely not safe. A proper swage is the strongest option.  Unlike hand-crimped connections that may simply break free, a tired swage connection will generally reveal hairline cracks prior to failing, giving you time to replace them. As for splicing those Dyneema lines, we do that here at Rigworks!

Finally, stanchions are often the weak link in your lifeline system. Tall and narrow, they are susceptible to bending, especially when used to catch the boat as you dock or to tie off sheets and halyards. Delamination and cracking at the base are also quite common. Use grade 316 stainless steel 1” diameter stanchions to reduce the likelihood of bending. Always check welds on bales and bases for rust which can be a telltale sign of cracking. Be sure that each stanchion is properly braced and bolted into a reinforced area of your deck and/or into a backing plate.

Of course, this is only the tip of the iceberg. Stanchion height and placement, line spacing (both horizontally and vertically), tension, deflection, toerails, etc. all need to be carefully considered. For professional installation or to discuss your own lifelines, email us at [email protected] or call us at 619-223-3788. We always look forward to hearing from you!

If you race, please read on…

Here is a list of the 2016 Safety Equipment Requirements that apply to lifelines for both coastal and ocean racing. For full list of 2016 SERs, visit the US Sailing website at http://www.ussailing.org/safety/equipment-and-requirements/

• A boat’s stanchion and pulpit bases shall be within the working deck. Stanchions used with High Modulus Polyethylene (HMPE) shall have rounded openings to reduce chafe.
• Bow pulpits may be open, but the opening between the vertical portion of stanchion pulpit and any part of the boat shall not exceed 14.2″ (360mm).
• Lifelines may be either uncoated stainless steel wire or HMPE line with spliced terminations or terminals specifically intended for the purpose. A multipart-lashing segment not to exceed 4″ per end termination for the purpose of attaching lifelines to pulpits is allowed. Lifelines shall be taut (see below). When HMPE is used, the load-bearing portion (core) shall meet or exceed minimum diameter requirements.
• When a deflecting force of 9 lbs (40N) is applied to a lifeline midway between supports of an upper or single lifeline, the lifeline shall not deflect more than 2” (50mm). This measurement shall be taken at the widest span between supports that are aft of the mast.
• When a deflecting force of 9 lbs (40N) is applied midway between supports of an intermediate lifeline of all spans that are aft of the mast, deflection shall not exceed 5” (120mm) from a straight line between the stanchions.
• The maximum spacing between lifeline supports (e.g. stanchions and pulpits) shall be 87″ (2.2m).
• Boats under 30′ (9.14m) shall have at least one lifeline with 18″ (457mm) minimum height above deck, and a maximum vertical gap of 18″ (457mm). Taller heights will require a second lifeline. The minimum diameter shall be 1/8″ (3mm).
• Boats 30′ and over (9.14m) shall have at least two lifelines with 24″ (762mm) minimum height above deck, and a maximum vertical gap of 15″ (381mm). The minimum diameter will be 5/32″ (4mm) for boats to 43′ (13.1m) and 3/16″ (5mm) for boats over 43′ (13.1m).
• Toe rails shall be fitted around the foredeck from the base of the mast with a minimum height of 3/4″ (18mm) for boats under 30′ (9.14m) and 1″ (25mm) for boats over 30′. An additional installed lifeline that is 1-2″ (25-51mm) above the deck will satisfy this requirement for boats without toerails.
• Trimarans are exempted from the lifeline requirement where there is a trampoline outboard of the main hull, except that a lifeline must run from the top of a bow pulpit to the forward crossbeam at the outboard edge of the bow net or foredeck. Catamarans with trampoline nets between the hulls are exempted from the lifeline requirement. All catamarans are exempted from the need for pulpits and lifelines across the bow.

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Mooring Clearance

Anchoring clearance, standing rigging clearance, running rigging clearance, deck hardware clearance, chandlery clearance, safety clearance, replacing your guard wires, a step-by-step guide.

Guard Wires, also known as Guard Rails and Lifelines, are fitted through Deck Stanchions positioned along the toe rail or gunwale between the pulpit and pushpit rails on yachts and boats to help prevent crew members from falling overboard.

As part of a yacht’s safety inventory, they should be regularly and meticulously checked for any visible signs of possible failure and replaced without hesitation if the need arises.

Insurance companies are becoming increasingly concerned with the age and condition of standing rigging on yachts, but so far, they don’t seem to be pushing too hard for evidence regarding the provenance and condition of guard wires.

However, if you recently made a second-hand purchase, it is advisable to check the Guard Wires and the Standing Rigging thoroughly.

Essentially, it is all wire rigging and subject to the same conditional age restraints.

Tackling the task of specifying, measuring, and fitting new Guard Wires on a sailing yacht may seem difficult, but there is a procedure to follow that can make it relatively straightforward for anyone who is reasonably practical.

The Jimmy Green Rigging Team is on hand to advise with any tricky bits.

You can purchase each wire with swaged terminals at both ends, finished and ready to fit, subject to the holes in your stanchions being a minimum 8mm clearance internal diameter. You can order yourself online or with help from the Jimmy Green Rigging Team.

You can take confidence from the fact there is a good deal of adjustment on rigging screws and guardrail adjusters to allow for any minor measurement errors, and there is even more latitude if you are terminating the wires with a lashing.

The Jimmy Green Rigging Team set the turnbuckles at 2/3 open unless otherwise requested, aiming to produce the finished wires with an accuracy to within plus or minus the diameter of the wire.

If the holes in your stanchions only allow the wire to pass through, not the swaged terminal options, you need a slightly different approach.

This will generally involve purchasing each wire over long with one terminal end swaged. The other end will need to be finished in situ by cutting to the exact length and fitting a DIY (mechanical) terminal. Modern swageless terminals from Sta-Lok or Petersen are simple to fit, so you can be confident of success.

Guard Wire Checklist

• Carry out an overall assessment of the state of the current installation
• Consider whether repeating the same lengths as the existing wires will produce the desired result.
• Consider any design or specification alterations
• Identify all existing components, including measuring the wire diameter.
• Take photos.
• Make a note of any tension settings.
• Determine any possible improvements

1. Guard Wire Installation Assessment

Begin by checking that your current lifelines are set up and tensioned correctly. This need not be as technical as it sounds - you need to ensure you copy a system that works well.

Assess the current state of the whole system, including

• Stanchions and their bases
• Pushpit and pulpit
• All the deck fixings
• The overall alignment of the fixing lugs and through holes.
• The possibility that the whole system is leaning inboard due to excessive tension over a long period 

Stanchions should normally be a minimum of 610mm high and are often as high as 900mm, with a maximum spacing of approximately 2 metres.

Normally, two wires are fitted: an upper guard wire at full height (minimum 600mm) and a lower guard wire at an intermediate level.

The span between stanchions, gateway stanchions, the pulpit and the pushpit should be as short as practicable to minimise the damaging effect of an impact in the middle.

Gates are commonly fitted amidships to port and starboard on larger yachts. Gates require a pair of braced stanchions or short stabilising rails with a tensioning system at both the pulpit and pushpit. If no gate is fitted, the wires should run continuously fore and aft, with the tensioning system on the aft end, where they attach to the pushpit.

Guardrail Webbing, sewn to custom measurements are a useful replacement for wire when a little more comfort is required, e.g. where the crew may be leaning against it

Fender lanyards are commonly tied off on the guard wires. This practice is not ideal but is often the only practicable solution. To minimise their pulling effect, it is advisable to locate the fender lanyards as close as possible to a stanchion.

Guardrail Netting  can be fitted to improve overall security and prevent the egress of smaller objects or bodies.

Safety Checks for PVC Coated or Plain wire should follow a similar pattern with particular attention to damage or deterioration caused by corrosion or deformation of the wire construction, e.g. bending that results in a permanent kink.

Rust or corrosion will normally occur:

• On the section of wire that immediately protrudes from the PVC coating.
• On the wire immediately adjacent to the wire terminal, whether swaged or swageless
• To a lesser extent, between the two above
• On any wire section where the PVC coating has been compromised, allowing water ingress.

Plain or bare wire is more easily inspected for signs of damage or imminent failure.

Inspection should also include close visual scrutiny of all the other aspects of the guardrail installation, e.g.

Stanchions and Gate Stanchions – are they bent or damaged? Are the eyes causing an ongoing issue with chafe? Are they securely fixed into the stanchion bases? Are the feet on the brace firmly screwed down to the deck?

Stanchion Bases – are they in good condition and with a strong and stable fastening to the deck or toe rail?

Pushpit and Pulpit Rails – Is the welding on the attachment lugs intact and serviceable? Are the deck fixings strong enough?

Lashings – are they made off satisfactorily? Are there enough turns to make up the requisite break load? Has the rope suffered from UV deterioration or abrasion?

2. Consider any design or specification alterations

Exclude any extra unnecessary shackles or fittings and make allowance in your measurements. A fork terminal is generally the optimum fitting for connecting to the lug on the forward pulpit rail. The picture shows a guardrail adjuster with a fork end. A fixed fork terminal can be used if no adjustment is required, e.g. at the forward end.

Research your tensioning options for the aft end: Bottle Screw/Rigging Screw/Guardrail adjuster/Adjustable Fork/lanyard Eye.

How to Decide between PVC Covered or Plain uncovered Wire for Lifelines and Rigging. 

4mm and 5mm diameter 1x19 stainless steel wire are available with a PVC coating.

4mm wire increases to 6mm overall diameter and 5mm wire to 8mm overall.

The PVC coating forms a protective sheath with an aesthetically pleasing white finish and a more forgiving composition than bare stainless steel.

The composition and surface of the PVC sleeving are kinder to hands and other exposed parts of the body and less abrasive on sails and rigging.

The PVC may hide deterioration in the wire and make it more difficult to detect or predict, but there are checks that can be carried out to reduce the chances of failure.

3. Close inspection of all components

Guard wires should be made from Marine Grade 316 stainless steel 1x19 wire, with a minimum 4mm diameter for leisure yachts and boats up to approximately 12 metres in length overall - KOS Manufacturer Break Load 1280kg.

5mm stainless steel 1x19 wire is preferable as it is appreciably more substantial and considerably stronger - KOS MBL 2000kg.

6mm should be considered on larger yachts over 15 metres in length overall – KOS MBL 2880kg.

The wire pictured below is a flexible 7x7 or 7x19 construction, which is not advisable for guard wires.

1x19 construction wire is much stronger and has a smooth finish.

The wire terminals and end fittings, including any rigging screws, turnbuckles, guardrail adjusters and adjustable forks, need to be at least as strong as the wire. This also applies to any lashings or lanyards used to finish and tension the wires.

Clevis pins, clevis rings and split pins should be secured and wrapped with Insulation Tape to prevent accidental snagging on sheets and sails.

Establish the size of every component and make notes. A good quality pair of callipers is an invaluable investment for producing accurate results.

Once you have confirmed the wire diameter and approximate length and identified the terminals fore and aft, it is a simple online exercise to get an accurate estimate of the replacement cost on Guard Wires Lifelines and Guardrail Webbing. Alternatively, the Jimmy Green Rigging Team will happily oblige based on the same information.

4. Take photos

Take photos of everything, including zoomed-in details of anything you are unsure about and any others that will serve as a reminder when fitting the new wires.

Standard pin and hole diameters correspond with the thread size of the studs in the turnbuckles. Threads are generally UNF or possibly the Metric equivalent. The Jimmy Green Rigging Team can suggest suitable alternatives or source bespoke replacements if your current guard wire fittings are no longer available.

5. Mark all tension settings

Make a note of any tension settings by marking them with tape or taking photos. If you loosen any turnbuckles to disconnect them, remember to return them to their noted settings before measuring. The new wires can then be made to the required length with the optimum adjustment, normally 2/3 open.

6. Determine any possible improvements

One last check to ensure that there isn’t a change of fitting or a tweak in the set-up that will make the new system an improvement on the old one.

Gateway Illustrations

1. Gate stanchions with bracing struts

2. Lanyard threaded stud passed through the stanchion hole with Lanyard Eye screwed on - Pelican hooks provide adjustment and convenient release and attachment.

3. Large stanchion holes provide all sorts of options for connecting the other side of the gate - in this example, a fixed fork interlocks with a fixed eye terminal.

Staining or Discolouring on Stainless Steel

This guardrail adjuster is not compromised but merely needs the application of  Stainless Steel Cleaner to restore it to a bright, polished finish.

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• Safety & Seamanship
• Sails, Rigging & Deck Gear

Lifeline Stanchions: New Aluminum Matella Is Super Strong

Cast bases outperform welded ones, so look to spartan and suncor..

Long ago, aboard sailing ships trapped in the doldrums, the crew rigged long, vertical poles to support awnings. The awnings were needed to keep the decks from opening up and to prevent living things—man and beast—from dying in the heat.

The poles became pipes, they got shorter and soon they were called “bulwark stanchions.”

And that’s how, as bulwarks extending above the weather deck shrank, lifelines came into being. Bulwarks, once needed to keep deck-loaded cargo from going over the side, added to the cost of construction; they also added a lot of windage and could scoop up tons of water.

Stanchions, threaded with strong, low-windage rope or wire lifelines, became slim and trim.

On modern ships and yachts, the lifelines the stanchions support are intended to keep the crew from going overboard. To be really effective, the lifelines should be taller than generally seen. Waist high should be the minimum. How the boat looks shouldn’t be an issue, but it is.

The lifelines and the supporting stanchions and bases must be strong enough to withstand a lurching fall by a large crew member.

Standards for stanchions and lifelines are meager. The Offshore Racing Council says the lifelines should be 18″ high on boats no more than 28′ LOA, 24″ on larger boats with both mounted on through-bolted, bonded or welded stanchions no more than 7′ apart. The Cruising Club of America’s Fastnet-inspired publication, Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, states only that stanchions be of stainless steel and through-bolted. A recent study sponsored by the United States Naval Academy and the United States Sailing Association suggested that plastic-coated lifeline wire should be replaced with bare wire and that, because pulpits and pushpits are weak attachment points for lifelines, their bases should be equipped with supporting struts.

For this Practical Sailor test, almost two dozen stanchions and close to three dozen bases were collected. The samples do not include all available lengths of stanchions and angled bases.

They all were examined closely for design, material, finish and workmanship. Extra scrutiny was given to fabricated items—those that are welded or made up of several pieces of stainless plate, tubing and rod.

Cast vs. Welded Bases For those who prefer one-piece construction, the penalty for the solid bronze or stainless castings usually is weight.

For instance, a Vetus base in this test, which is made up of a piece of stainless plate bent to shape and to which is welded a piece of stainless tubing, weighs 8.5 ounces. That light weight was the goal clearly is indicated by a hole punched out to eliminate excess material. When combined with a Vetus tapered stanchion, the pair weigh 1 pound, 11 ounces.

By contrast, a cast stainless steel Spartan base weighs twice as much—18 ounces. Combine that Spartan base with the strongest Tops-In-Quality stanchion (the model reinforced with a fiberglass rod) and the weight soars to just over 3 pounds.

Multiply the weight differences in these combinations by the stanchions needed on most boats and the added weight can get significant…especially to a sailboat that is raced. The choice between fabricated and cast bases should be made by a boat owner; unfortunately, the selection usually is made by the boatbuilder, who too often goes not only for the lightest but also the cheapest.

As with any safety equipment, the primary objective is to have a lifeline system that will save a life. (But because of inherent weaknesses, oneshould never clip a safety harness to lifelines.) That means strength.

In the case of lifelines, it’s likely that when someone falls it will be more likely against the lifelines than against a single stanchion. Some say it’s better to have stanchions bend (to provide some cushion). It seems preferable, in our view, that the stanchions withstand the force.

How much force?

Practical Sailor has struggled with various ways to figure out how much force a grown adult might exert while falling hard. Various drop tests have been considered and rejected as not realistic. However, that does not preclude testing to establish which items in a group are the strongest. Tests that indicate in what manner failure presents itself also can help buyers match their preferences to the products they buy.

Bases sell for about $32-$45.

Design and Quality Before testing was undertaken, the stanchions and bases were closely examined.

For the stanchions, the chart (click here to view) shows evaluations of finish, welding, aesthetics, weight, length and price.

Stanchions made of stainless tubing are manufactured from a flat strip. The ribbon is fed into an automatic machine that forms a tube and welds the seam. Because welds are prone to corrosion, the quality of the weld is important. So is the finish…the polishing of the stainless.

The top details may be a matter of appearance. The castellated tip, shaped like the battlements on the corners of a castle, surely ranks as the second best looking (next to the one-piece aluminum Goiot). As with the pipe tip and ring tip on two of the Tops-In-Quality stanchions, the castellated top is a separate piece that must be welded in place. That increases the possibility of corrosion.

One other consideration of stanchion tips involves comfort and safety. The small tips on tapered stanchions may be sleek and handsome, but the blunt tops on the Schaefer and two of the Tops-In-Quality models, all three on untapered tubing, would be a bit nicer to grab and somewhat safer if one fell on them. Tapered for good looks and with fairly large tips, the Goiot and Matella are good compromises.

Whatever the design, the hole for the lifeline must be smooth to avoid chafing either the plastic cover used on most lifelines or a bare wire lifeline. Because the plastic cover encourages corrosion, bare wire is preferable…except in an anodized aluminum stanchion where the stainless wire would quickly wear away the anodizing.

The mid-hole for the lower lifeline also must be smooth.

It should be noted that, although they may be sold as stanchion bases, some of these bases really are meant for powerboat railings. Included are models from Attwood, Buck Algonquin and Suncor. Others can be found in some discount marine stores. With fewer mounting holes, less material or with a low profile, these “railing bases” seem to satisfy powerboat owners, but should not be used on a sailboat.

Sailboat bases should have a drain hole, because they collect water and debris. The result: Corrosion, which is unsightly but, more importantly, can lead to failure, especially of fabricated bases.

It’s important, too, how the stanchion is secured in the base. It’s not uncommon for someone hoping to avoid a fall to pull up on a lifeline, only to have the stanchion lift out of the base.

The poorest bases have one tiny set screw. Those with two set screws are twice as good as “very poor.”

A requirement, in our opinion, is a bolt, threaded into at least one side of the stanchion and base, but better if run all the way through and secured with an acorn nut, seated in Loc-tite, on the other side. If such bolts hold the stanchion up off the bottom of the base socket, they rarely rattle. Not one of these bases is so equipped, but some easily can be drilled and fitted with a proper through-bolt.

Several years ago we had Tops-In-Quality make up a number of bases for our Tartan test boat and they were quite happy to drill drain and through-bolt holes. We think this is an improvement well worth the modest price increase.

As one manufacturer put it, “Basically, stanchion bases should be inviolate.” They must not break or bend. They also must be powerfully mounted. If not, a failure probably will do some deck damage, which might be dangerous if at sea and expensive to fix anywhere.

Unless it’s light weight you desire, cast bronze and stainless bases are far better than fabricated bases. Fabricated bases always involve the ever-suspect welding and it takes little pressure to distort the fabricated bases, even those with reinforcing struts. When a base bends, it always pulls the mounting holes closer together and squeezes the deck unmercifully. The result: wobbly bases, deck cracks and leaks.

First Phase Testing For the first phase of the testing, fabricated bases were tested with a strong aluminum stanchion…in this case the 1″ OD Matella.

A piece of Sta-Set line was shackled to the hole in the tip of the stanchion and led to a Harken winch mounted on the other end of the long workbench. Interposed in the line was a Dillon dynamometer. It took a pad eye and a block to produce a proper angle for the line to meet the winch. The pull on the stanchion was at about a 20° downward angle…about right for someone falling against the stanchion or lifeline from the opposite side.

The pull, applied by the Harken #32 two-speed, self-tailing winch and registered on a dynamometer, was increased until damage could be seen.

The failure usually presented itself in the form of a bend in the base plate on the backside. When the bend was well-developed and permanent, the pull and angle were recorded.

Second Phase Testing The second phase of the test involved stanchions. All except the big Matella and the metric Goiot are 1″ OD.

The wall thickness of the stainless steel tube stanchions is about .060″. However, because this was a simple strength test, any differences in the wall thickness are moot.

Further, although it is obvious that shorter stanchions would show up better in the testing, no allowance was made for length after it appeared that it wouldn’t make any difference in the final recommendations.

The Spartan plain bronze base ($40) was used for all but the Matella stanchion (which has its own base).

The pull was applied in the same manner as for the bases. With two exceptions, the stainless tubing stanchions all failed in the same manner. One exception was the braced Signet stanchion; it failed where the brace was welded to the main body of the stanchion. The other exception was the 30″ Ronstan; it has holes for three lifelines and bent at both the bottom hole and at the point where the tube entered the base.

Although it might be thought that a stanchion would bend at the mid-hole or, if tapered, near the top, all but the exceptions noted above failed at the compression point where the stanchion emerges from the base. (Tapering is a relatively inexpensive procedure costing a dollar or two.)

It starts with a slight depression and very quickly becomes a deep kink, at which point the integrity of the stanchion disappears.

The aluminum stanchions are different. Firstly, they have more flexibility, meaning that they recover from fairly severe bending. More importantly, they are very strong and retain most of their strength, even when bent severely.

The Bottom Line Because the base should be of unquestioned strength, cast bases (bronze or stainless, but not aluminum) are so superior to fabricated bases that only cast bases are worthy of recommendation. It’s tempting to qualify that statement by saying that fabricated bases might be used if light weight was very desirable; however, making exceptions in safety equipment can lead to regrets.

Of the cast bases in this sampling, those sold by Spartan—especially the bronze model with the excellent drain hole—provided the greatest confidence. The large stainless model from Suncor also appears more than adequate to very heavy usage.

For stanchions, other than the Tops-In-Quality stainless version stiffened with a thick fiberglass rod, none of the hollow stainless tubes are equal to the two solid aluminum stanchions from Goiot and Matella.

The stainless tube stanchions all failed at from 120 to 200 pounds, which, in that emergency setting when someone is thrown hard against the lifelines, is not nearly as good as the reinforced Top-In-Quality, the Goiot or Matella.

The Goiot stanchion is a metric size, which makes it not usable (without some work) with a non-metric base. And the cast aluminum Goiot base fractured at 195 pounds.

That leaves as Practical Sailor’s top choice the new Matella.

Machined of solid 6061 aluminum, assembled with a 7075 aluminum machine screw, the heavily anodized stanchions come with backing plates and 5/8″ nuts. The base even has two O-rings, which makes caulking unnecessary. The Matella stanchions are available in three lengths—26″, 28″ and 30″ and Practical Sailor recommends the longest. They’re even available in colors—bronze, red, green, blue and any other on special order. They fit deck thicknesses from 3/8″ to 1-3/8″.

Two negatives about the Matella: (1) if one is damaged, perhaps by snagging an overhanging dock, the entire unit must be removed for straightening or replacement, which would be more difficult and more expensive than just replacing a bent stanchion; and (2) it is heavy, as mentioned earlier.

On the plus side is the price. A 30″ stanchion, complete, costs $85. By contrast, a chromed bronze Spartan base ($54.65) and the rodded Tops-In-Quality stanchion ($57.90) together cost $112.55 and you must supply your own backing plate and fasteners.

Contacts- Garhauer, 1082 W. Ninth St., Upland, CA 91786, 909/985-9993, www.garhauermarine.com. Goiot, Welmax Marine USA, 220 Lock Rd., Deerfield Beach, FL 33442-1516, e-mail [email protected] . Matella, Box 2849, Big Bear City, CA 92314, 909/584-0168, www.matella.com. Ronstan, 7600 Bryan Dairy Rd., Largo, FL 33777, 727/545-1911, www.ronstan.com. Schaefer, 158 Duchaine, New Bedford, MA 508/995-9511, www.schaefermarine.com. Signet, 505 Van Ness, Torrance, CA 90501, 310/320-4349, www.signetmarine.com. Spartan, Georgetown, ME 04548, 207/371-2542, www.robinhoodyachts.com. Tops-In-Quality, 314 E. Huron Blvd., Marysville, MI 48040, 810/364-7150, fax 810/364-7925, www.topsinquality.com. Vetus, Vetus Den Ouden, Box 8712, Baltimore, MD 21240, 410/712-0740, www.vetus.com. White Water Inc., White Water Marine Hardware, 13663 46th St. North., Clearwater, FL 33762, 800/572-8871, e-mail [email protected] .

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Stanchion Layout

January 22, 2020.

Proposed stanchion layout 1/22/20

The premise of this layout was to include a 24″ gate opening roughly amidships, or just aft of the aftermost chainplate location.

To begin, I adjusted the forward two sets of stanchions so that the length between their tops, and to the connection point on the pulpit, was equal.  I kept the second stanchion as close as practicable to the chainplates, while also taking into account the location of a small bulkhead inside the boat (defining the end of the port upper locker).

Then, I placed the third stanchion 24″ aft, to create a standard gate opening.  From there, I measured aft the same distance I had used forward, and this placed the fourth stanchion just aft of the winch island.  In my opinion, this is a good location for the stanchion since it keeps it more out of the way (the sidedeck is quite narrow forward of the winch island), and also leaves the deck forward of the winch clear for the jib sheet track installation.  Plus, the spacing interval remains consistent between the bow pulpit and each stanchion thereafter (other than the gate).

The spacing between the 4th stanchion and the stern pulpit is a bit shorter, but with the gate located where it is, and other considerations and conflicts, there is no way to make all the lengths exactly the same.  But this is the best place to have the inconsistent length in any event, visually and otherwise.

Note that I could, if necessary, adjust the gate position aft, but not forward without interfering with the stays.

These photos show the layout from as many angles as possible.

The placement of the 4th stanchion aft of the winch island also keeps the winch area clear for handle operation, with over 13″ between the winch location and the stanchion. There is still access to the shore power plug.

Were I to move the stanchion base forward of the winch island, I’d have to place it no further aft than shown here in order to allow winch handle operation (12″ or more).  This location also interferes with one of the toerail scupper locations, and would limit the options for placement of the jib sheet track.  All in all, for many reasons, the 4th stanchion works much better just aft of the winch island.

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replacing lifelines - stanchion issue

• Thread starter Sherry
• Start date Jun 23, 2012
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

Well as usual with my boat projects, one good thing leads to another.... I want to replace my lifelines. I took the port top lifeline off with no issue - easy. Then I started on the lower lifeline. Uh oh. I have three stanchions; the middle one is fine. The fore and aft ones are not. The holes that the lifelines pass through are distorted - like something has pushed up inside the hole? The lifeline is trapped; I can't work it free. Looking at it further, I wonder if I'm going to have to replace those stanchions as well. If so, can I replace just the straight vertical piece of the stanchion, or do I have to replace the bases as well? I haven't been looking yet to see how (in)accessible the underside of the bases will be. Suggestins/ideas? Photos attached. Thanks in advance.  

Attachments

Phil Herring

Re: replacing lifelines - stanchion issue - 1992 H30 You want to do everything you can to save those stanchions. There are no tapered stanchions for sale anywhere that we know of and to our knowledge, there is only one source. We're working with them to produce a large batch but they're not very interested in the project so it's slow going. Someone who works with stainless can offer better advice than me, but you might carefully drill out the hole and put a ferrule inside to contain the line. That said, I wouldn't do anything until you get advice from a pro.  

stevec22206

Friend of mine has a 33.5 and experienced the same issue. Believe there to be nylon grommet inside the stanchion and it may have been force upwards due to temperature changes and potential moisture inside the stanchion. Upwards pressure pinches the lifeline. We were able to eventually work them out but I recall he removed all the stanchions, took them home and may have used a dremel to bore them out to relieve the tension enough to get the lifeline thru. Steve  

just replace them all they look pretty torn up and seem like a good way to cut yourself, and what would be the point of having nice new lifeline on crappy stanchion, just get the top part, they are probably 7/8 or one inch.  

If the tube and base are separate pieces on your boat, you can simply replace the tube. They are held in place with set screws. Your pictures are inconclusive as to this issue.... but a simple inspection, looking for set screws and evidence of a joint between tube and base, should allow you to determine this on your own.  

Back to the boat this afternoon. I can't just replace the poles; they are welded to the base. I cannot determine how to access the bottom of the fasteners holding the base on. What happens if I unscrew these without being able to access the bottom? Thanks in advance.  

Sherry said: Back to the boat this afternoon. I can't just replace the poles; they are welded to the base. I cannot determine how to access the bottom of the fasteners holding the base on. What happens if I unscrew these without being able to access the bottom? Thanks in advance. Click to expand

The stanchions are bolted from the under side of the toe rail. The screws are machine screws attached to an aluminum plate imbedded in the deck. You can remove the the stanchion and drill out the hole for the life line and put a plastic farrell in to protect the lifeline.  

They look to be 'coated' lines, might try to cut/peel the cover off close to the stanchion and clamp on a pair of 'vice grips' and twist the cable free. It is IMPORTANT to twist the same way the cable is twisted, as this should make the cable smaller, by tightening the twist of the cable. My.02  

Joe, AirborneSF and Orion - thank you all for your responses. Orion - if I understand you correctly, there is no nut on the bottom of a bolt; these are screws instead. So I can unscrew them, detach the stanchion, do whatever I need to do, and then re-attach the stanchion - all without ever having to find access to the bottom of the screw inside the hull? Thanks again!  

That is correct. There is a bolt that threads into the stanchion from under the toe rail. When you put it back together put a small piece of plastic (ie. a piece of milk bottle)between the toe rail and the stanchion to lessen any dissimilar metal reaction.  

Chris Nowell

First thing I'd do is consult a metal fabrication shop that specializes in stainless steel. I personally wouldn't trust any piece of equipment that had been compromised in any way. A lot of these fabrication guys have brilliant ideas when it comes to restoration and repair and they're worth spending some time talking to. As far as the under side of the bases go, you just have to get in there and look. If you're really lucky you will only have to remove a bit of carpet or wall covering to access the nuts. If you're not so lucky you will have to remove walls, cabinetry, carpet, and wall coverings to gain access, as we had to in our last project. Luckily we did too because although the fiberglass and gelcoat appeared to be in good shape on the outside, once we exposed the under side we discovered signs of stress and had the opportunity to reinforce the stantion bases with blocks of teak epoxied onto the underside of the attachment points. I've been told that I'm far too anal when it comes to things like this but I think it's always better to be safe than sorry when you rely on such equipment to avoid being hurt or killed. Good luck.  

What is to stop you from simply opening up the lifelines hole with a drill?  

higgs said: What is to stop you from simply opening up the lifelines hole with a drill? Click to expand

I learned from Hunter (thank you Phil!!!) how the stanchions are attached. Working on options for repairing/replacing now. Orion - your description was right on target. Thanks all for the help! Moving in the right direction - just not sure if I should repair or replace. Not sure if we go the repair route what I will use for ferrules inside the stanchion. Hunter tech support says: "The tapered stanchions have to 2 (1/4-20 x 1 1/4" flat head machine bolts that are drilled and taped into a aluminum plate in the deck. There also is one 5/16 X 1 3/4" Hex Head Machine Bolt, with 5/16" flat washer and 5/16" lock washer. The 5/16 Hex Head Bolt goes through the bottom of the Hull Flange, up through the Deck Flange and Aluminum Toe-Rail and threads into the bottom of the tapered stanchion. Also note that if a customer replaces a stanchion or the 5/16" Hex Head Bolt that they should put a little anti-seize in the base of the stanchion so there's no chance of the bolt locking up." In other words, there should be a hex head for the bolt on the bottom side of the hull to deck joint, or possibly the toe rail.  

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> > Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on Cruisers Forums. 12-08-2022, 04:45   Boat: BUILT!!! Roberts Mauritius 43ft " on how I should mount the stanchions on . I am reluctant to mount the base of the stanchion directly on to the as I know it will mean I have deck (even if I use butyl tape) I have therefore made up polyester "mounts" to raise the base of the stanchion slightly above the deck. I thought I'd sand the deck where the stanchion is to be mounted and then use polyester bog to "glue" the mount to the deck. Then I'd mount the stanchion using butyl tape. Has anyone got a better idea? I have taken a with my , emailed the to my and then cropped it (first time I've done that!)   12-08-2022, 05:20   Boat: Morgan Out Island 41 issue. Adding a small countersink to the hole for the butyl to seat into gives the butyl a place to form a . Proper technique ( not really hard) with butyl solves that problem. My stanchions bases were assembled 40+ years ago and still do not leak. If they are leaking its an install issue not a flaw. I don't think bedding a riser of glass in polyester "bog" is a good idea, If you choose to go that , is much stronger as a secondary bond than polyester. 12-08-2022, 05:24   Boat: Owner built 60’ Aluminum Expedition Yacht. , whatever. Bevel the edges for your feet. them to the deck. Drill, clean, scuff up the bottom of the stainless with 36 on a mini grinder, acetone, stick on with 5200 not hard then retighted in a few days. Never liked tape. The manatee crew 12-08-2022, 05:59   Boat: BUILT!!! Roberts Mauritius 43ft issue. Adding a small countersink to the hole for the butyl to seat into gives the butyl a place to form a . Proper technique ( not really hard) with butyl solves that problem. My stanchions bases were assembled 40+ years ago and still do not leak. If they are leaking its an install issue not a flaw. I don't think bedding a riser of glass in polyester "bog" is a good idea, If you choose to go that , epoxy is much stronger as a secondary bond than polyester. 12-08-2022, 06:07   Boat: Morgan Out Island 41 construction stated 95% of leaks will be stopped if the mountings are "proud" of the deck. I'm not too worried about epoxy being stronger than polyester as the mount will be bolted anyway. 12-08-2022, 06:08   Boat: Jeanneau SO 389 even nylon. I have some PC nylon which is amazing. will draw to area. You can use a Wood sealer from minwax which fill open cells with Epoxy. Renders the wood rock hard. I drill through bolt holes twice one oversized the next one I tap through Epoxy. That way they is no chance a stress crack will start migration. 12-08-2022, 06:08   Boat: BUILT!!! Roberts Mauritius 43ft 12-08-2022, 06:12   Boat: Chris Craft 381 Catalina and adequate surface area for the stanchion bases goes a long way to keeping stuff from flexing. If it doesn't move or flex noticeably, it's much easier to keep things sealed properly. As far as , butyl stays soft, but may squish out of the joint over time. 4200 / 4000UV / 5200 (or other similar sealant) should avoid that problem and fine. In any case, go with the countersunk bolt holes in the deck, as that'll let a ring of get down in there making it less likely to ever leak (even if a little bit of movement compromises the layer of sealant between the deck and stanchion base). 13-08-2022, 04:03   Boat: Southwind 21 et al. vibe where they do a close-up on an aging starlet and it goes all soft focus...I should use that technique more on my own boat     13-08-2022, 08:29   Boat: 35 Ft. cutter, custom and padeyes, (with their tiny mounting surface area,) should always be on raised pads, and it sure makes cleaning/painting around them much easier, ease of use is also enhanced. Ditto on windlasses, and their deck mounted switches. Stanchion pads also provide the opportunity of incorporating changing bevels so that the stanchions don't "stick out" at all kinds of angles, thereby adding some symmetry and grace to the visual. 13-08-2022, 08:58   Boat: Sundeer 64 . 13-08-2022, 17:11   Boat: BUILT!!! Roberts Mauritius 43ft vibe where they do a close-up on an aging starlet and it goes all soft focus...I should use that technique more on my own boat 13-08-2022, 18:23   Boat: BUILT!!! Roberts Mauritius 43ft . 13-08-2022, 18:30   Boat: Sundeer 64 29-04-2024, 22:06   Boat: Roberts 34 on the deck/topsides of my Roberts34 (Foam GRP sandwich). Over decades it seems that water ingress through deck stanchion mountings had rotted out a large area of (can you believe it) 4” thick vertical grain in the topsides down about 18 inches. I had to attack it from inside the boat first after the deck had been opened, creating a gaping hole. It is now repaired leaving me wondering how to mount the stanchions. If I move these stanchions inboard to avoid the thick topsides (containing that wood) they are halfway across the available deck. Not an option. I cannot through bolt the bases. I am left with the proposition that the bases must be mounted entirely on the deck surface. No through bolts. A good told me this is quite possible, but I no longer have contact with him. Does anybody have experience with the specs and techniques required to ensure adequate impact strength for full installation of on-deck stanchions?     Thread Tools Rate This Thread : Posting Rules post new threads post replies post attachments edit your posts is are code is are are are Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post alaskanviking Construction, Maintenance & Refit 8 21-10-2017 22:06 capuncook Multihull Sailboats 5 01-10-2009 13:10 xxuxx Deck hardware: Rigging, Sails & Hoisting 4 25-05-2009 20:07 SkiprJohn Construction, Maintenance & Refit 16 31-10-2008 09:44 Spirit28 Deck hardware: Rigging, Sails & Hoisting 3 30-07-2007 10:40 - - - - - - - Privacy Guaranteed - your email is never shared with anyone, opt out any time. Advanced Product Search Request a Quote Lifeline Stanchion Grade: 316 stainless steel. Retail and bulk packaging available The Lifeline Stanchion is available in a variety of heights, as well as custom heights. This stanchion is made from grade 316 stainless steel for maximum corrosion resistance and durability. It is ideal for sailboat and powerboat railings. The S3608-0025 Bullet Cap is included in the Stanchion Assembly. The Bullet Cap (S3608-0025) is included in the stanchion assembly. Specifications ALL DIMENSIONS ARE NOMINAL (+/- 3%) AND ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. ITEM A (size) B C D X Y Z WT (lb) S3609-2425 24.00″ 12.00″ 11.00″ 0.34″ 1.00″ 24.50″ 1.00″ 1.32 S3609-3025 30.00″ 15.00″ 14.00″ 0.34″ 1.00″ 30.50″ 1.00″ 1.63 S3609-3625 36.00″ 18.00″ 17.00″ 0.34″ 1.00″ 36.50″ 1.00″ 2.04 Related Products Heavy Top Cap Removable Pin with Ring Heavy Top Slide Hinged Top Slide Flat End Cap Deck Hinge – 90 Degree Deck Hinge – 90 Degree, Removable Pin Deck Hinge – Concave Deck Hinge – 90 Degree, Removable Pin, Concave Side Deck Hinge Heavy Duty Side Deck Hinge Deck Hinge – 80 Degree, Screwed Deck Hinge – 80 Degree, Drilled Lanyard with Pin Footman’s Loop Lifeline Adjuster 3-Way Rail Corner Multi-Directional Top Cap Tee Rail, Universal, 90 Degree Tee Rail, Universal, 60 Degree Stanchion Brace Stanchion Base Forward End Rail, 120 Degree Aft End Rail, 60 Degree Center Rail, 60 Degree Rail Stanchion End Rail Stanchion Center End Mount In End Mount Out Rectangular Base – 90 Degree, 2 Hole Bottom Mount Round Rail Base – 30 Degree Round Rail Base – 45 Degree Round Rail Base – 60 Degree Round Rail Base – 90 Degree Rectangular Base – 30 Degree Rectangular Base – 45 Degree Rectangular Base – 60 Degree Rectangular Base – 90 Degree Heavy Duty Pad Eye Swivel Web Clip Fixed Bimini Clip The product has been added to your list., download our catalog. Forum Listing Marketplace Advanced Search About The Boat Gear & Maintenance SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more! What's the best was to seal my stanchion bases? Add to quote Hey guys, I know this sounds like a typical question, but I searched and searched but couldnt really find any answer that really pertained to my issue. Ok, so I have my stanchions removed and have been faced with the issue of how to seal these buggers up. So, most stanchion bases I've seen, sit completely flat to the deck, with the entire footprint making contact. My bases on the other hand only make contact on the perimeter, as the base is actually hollow with an interior height of a bit less than 1/4". I've considered the typical butyl tape solution, but I only forsee it being cut off by the edge of the base and ultimately having no function. The idea of also just filling the base up with butyl or a sealant has crossed my mind but that seems a little amateur. Ultimately, the answer that seems to make sense is to cut a rubber gasket the size of the base to make the seal, but I've read that many people frown upon that execution. Does anyone have any ideas?? I just wanna get back on the water!   I believe butyl is the way to go. The only thing you have to worry about is water getting into the deck thru the screw holes. Make sure they are chamfered and use lots of butyl.   That's going to take an excessive amount of butyl though, like probably a whole 30 foot roll for the 6 bases. Has anyone here been in this exact situation?   This is not something you want to 'short cut'... You want something that will work well, and not harden over time. I'd say Butyl was the ideal product for this particular job. Have you seen this from Maine Sail?: http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/63554-bedding-deck-hardware-butyl-tape.html He's also the go-to supplier for the proper butyl product.   Butyl could be good as it works by compression. Another option is Dolfinite . It's a semi-paste (I think that's how it's described). You can put it down at the base, tighten the bolts just enough to hold it in place. Then, once it dries, you can tighten more and the compression will help seal it from water. I have some, but haven't used it (yet). I opened the can and the dried layer on top had a rubber feel that could be compressed and was flexible.   I think we're having trouble understanding the mounting surface of your stanchions. Can you give some details on how wide the actual contact surface is? A picture would be very useful, too. VERY useful.   Are the bolts/screws going to pass across the void? If so, maybe try using non-hardening windscreen mastic to fill the voids.   The bases sound like the hollow castingstypically used in chrome-over-zinc rail bases.. I've filled the voids with butyl tape. It really doesn't take that much.. Another product to look into *might* be a butyl caulk used in rubber roofing called "water cut-off mastic". Sticky, nasty,goopy and never dries.. The more presssure the better tthe hold...but it works! Last I bought was $6 per 11 oz tube.fills a lot of stanchion bases! ;_   I am also having difficulty understanding what you are trying to accomplish here. Aside from the bolts that mount the bases to the deck, why would you want to seal up the bases? Water will get in to the tubes from above and only fill them without an egress point anyway. That would cause rusting inside the Stantion bases. Tod   Gladrags1 said: I am also having difficulty understanding what you are trying to accomplish here. Aside from the bolts that mount the bases to the deck, why would you want to seal up the bases? Water will get in to the tubes from above and only fill them without an egress point anyway. That would cause rusting inside the Stantion bases. Tod Click to expand... I'm not sure I totally understand your setup, but yeah, it sounds like you should be worrying less about the bases and more about whatever goes through the deck--that's where you want your seal. Do screws go through the 4 corners?   Have you considered filling the stantion bases with epoxy, to make a flat surface? The sealant would then have a large surface area to work over. If you thickened the epoxy with colloidal silica you could do it in situ.   I'm a little confused why no one (Rhapsody-NS27 has it, but hasn't used it yet) uses the one product specifically designed for bedding things on boats, any more. Bedding compound. I've used it for over 50 years for bedding things, from stanchions to gene tracks and have never had any problems with it. It is easy to use, cheap to buy and easy to clean up, using turps.   I got mine for rebidding my deck hardware sometime. Not that anything is leaking but just to ensure it doesn't. Some things on my boat is due a refit. The Dolfinite I mentioned has also been recommended by many other Nor'sea owners. I appreciate your take on it as being reliable as well.   Personally I would cut some G-10 bases slightly larger than your existing bases then bed between the G-10 and deck. Those old hokey hollow bases are what they are and they are and can be a real pita... You can entirely fill them with butyl but this is time consuming to not leave any voids and do it right.... Pack, compress, pack compress etc. etc....   hey guys! For those of you who are confused on what my bases look like, they look like any other base, with four bolts penetrating at each corner, but ofcourse as the problem has it, the base is hollow. I wish I could take some pictures for you, but shes across town. How can I describe this. Ok so imagine a tupperwear container like the kind you would put a sandwich in. If you take the container (with the top removed for this example) and flip it upside-down there will be a chamber of air on the bottomside, yet all edges still touch the table it sits on...this is how my stanchion base have been cast. Ok so I like this idea about filling the bases with epoxy, but the reality of the messiness of the experience and the cost of epoxy makes it less than exciting. So I guess the next question is, what is actual bedding compound, and what is this G-10 you speak of, Maine sail? On another topic, I purchased a couple rolls of butyl tape on amazon and was told by one of the (self proclaimed) experts at my marina that it wasnt the real stuff...any clue? Amazon.com: Dicor (BT-1834-1) 1/8" x 3/4" x 30' Butyl Seal Tape: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51ZwdcW-pgL.@@AMEPARAM@@51ZwdcW-pgL btw thanks for all the comments and advice. It has all been read multiple times and I love the fact that I can come to this community for any wisdom you collectively have.   I used Starboard between the stanchion bases and the deck, and cut pieces larger than the feet of the stanchions so that would distribute the forces wider across the deck, so as not to crack the gel coat. I also squirted epoxy into the areas between the deck surface and the underside, where the balsa wood is sandwiched, so that any water wicking into the wood from the screws would be halted. Ideally, you would replace the wooden core with epoxy for an area roughly a foot around each stanchion base. But, we generally don't have access to that much area until the wood gets totally ruined and we bite the bullet and cut into the deck. :-(   Mizra, I don't know how you'd argue what is "the real stuff" much less whether there aren't other kinds that would work as well. But I am Real Damn Sure that picture from Amazon shows some very old stock, or some stock that should have been rejected and surplussed. Once you see that kind of funky roll instead of a smooth scircular spool of any kind of tape? It means there's uneven tension in the roll, typically from old, overheated, stretched (badly wound) etc. tape. Same thing will happen to a ten year old roll of masking tape. In theory butyl tape is forever, but whatever that is, it is not prime quality material. Properly sealing the holes in the deck, properly repairing any damage in the deck coring, and properly installing backing plates under the deck, will all be necessary if you want the work to be waterproof. Sealing the stanchion base itself, is icing on the cake compared to all that.   Mizra To fill the under side of your bases with epoxy you only have to put a piece of tape over the hole in the under side! check to make sure your stanchions don't extend below the hole. I did mine this way! Just turn them upside down, pour in the epoxy just slightly over full to allow for shrinkage when the epoxy cures. If it is slightly high you can sand of the excess. Then follow Maine Sails thread here to do the rest!   ?             176.4K members Top Contributors this Month 1000 stanchions around… Which ones are correct and which ones are killers? By arie palmers - published on 6 december 2022 -  322 -. In rule one (general) this resolution states “ship designers are encouraged to consider all aspects of pilot transfer arrangements at an early stage in design……. “ In the few photos earlier in the article we can clearly see that the stanchions were designed nor placed. Basically, this means the pilot transfer arrangement has not been designed in accordance with regulations, but of course it is nevertheless class approved. I have told this before and I will keep repeating this: whenever a pilot is confronted with a pilot transfer arrangement that is to be considered ‘non-compliant by design’, it means the entire chain of design, construction, classification, surveys, vetting and flag state inspections have failed, resulting into a dangerous setup. Rule 5 of the resolution mentions some more details on stanchions: 7-0.8m apart. Makes sense: people do not have arms of endless lengths 2m above deck or bulwark. Makes sense as well, you need a stanchion of this length to prevent falling down Minimum diameter 32mm. Also makes sense: when they are too thin, you can’t get a firm grip and your hands might slip Each stanchion to be rigidly secured at or near the base and at a higher point, also nice when a stanchion doesn’t break when you put weight on it… Despite the good outcome of this case, and many others were some people, let’s call them ‘strange people on a mission’, have assisted to correct wrong set-ups, basically people doing other people’s jobs… Well now, regarding the thickness of the stanchions, shouldn’t there be a maximum diameter anywhere in the rules to prevent silly designs like the above one? Yes there is!! ISO799-3:2021 mentions in rule 8.3 the following on stanchions: “Each access at the head of a pilot ladder shall have 2 handholds or handhold stanchions fitted. They shall not be less than 0.7m or more than 0.8m apart. Each stanchion or handhold should be rigidly secured to the ship’s structure at or near it’s base and at a higher point, should be round and not less than 32mm and not more than 36mm in diameter and should extend not less than 1.2m above the position it is secured to the ship’s structure.” Finally, a rule that says it all, when a stanchion is installed in accordance with the above-mentioned rule, it is safe to use. It is also fool proof in my opinion: seems impossible to make a violation following this rule. This again proves that you have to write down every single detail and leave nothing open because otherwise eventually someone will find a way to do it wrong, as we have seen earlier in this article. Video Kittiwake Mersey Pilot Published on 22 december 2021. KITTIWAKE ( MMSI 232008570) is a Pilot and currently sailing under the flag of United Kingdom (UK) Here she is speeding down the River this morning. Video Polaris Pilot Boat Antwerp Belgium Published on 15 march 2022. Vessel name: Polaris ; Year built: 2012 ; Flag: Netherlands ; Homeport: Rotterdam Length: 81.2m X 13.3m ; GRT: 2501 ; Callsign: PBZN ; MMSI:245142000 ; IMO: 9496915 Type: Special Vessel / Pilot Ship A "Pilot Ship / Pilot Vessel" is a "special type" of ship in which it accommodates a certain and limited Marine Pilots (Sea, River, Harbor Pilots), it also carries small boats/crafts that are used to tender services to and from the Pilot ship. In a Pilot Vessel, the Pilots can take their time... Video Pilot Leaving Ship Vigo Published on 31 march 2023, video learn more about mitags, published on 15 november 2019. Learn more about MITAGS in their full-length feature "About Us" video! Video How does GPS work? Published on 4 july 2019. by Casual Navigation Article First Pilot Station Steers a Course for Seably Online Maritime Training Published on 5 november 2021. The Varna Pilot Station in Bulgaria has chosen Seably, the global online marketplace for bespoke maritime learning, to become the first pilot station to use the digital platform for its training. Opinion Master pilot exchange (MPEX) – share your information By gard as - published on 4 september 2020. The Master and pilot are dependant on each other for a safe and successful beginning or end of a voyage. They are both operating in a foreign environment. Article Study on European maritime pilots: Working unusual hours and its relationship to job satisfaction Published on 6 september 2022. The study focuses on maritime pilotage in seven European countries and analyzes the level of job satisfaction and its predictors. Video DNV GL Identifies ‘Safety Gap’ as Maritime Transforms Published on 19 february 2021. As the marine industry digests decarbonization, digitalization and autonomy, DNV GL warns that a keen eye must stay on identifying and mitigating safety risks. Article NZ Taic releases Report on 2018 Bulker grounding in Bluff Harbour By baird maritime - published on 16 october 2021. The Transport Accident Investigation Commission of New Zealand (TAIC) has released its report on the incident involving the grounding of a foreign-flagged cargo vessel at Bluff Harbour on November 28, 2018. Most Viewed Considered: - Articles - Jobs - Organisations - Companies - Videos Recent comments. (001) 401-739-1140 -- (001) 401-739-1149   SS Stanchion Bases have been produced in a variety of configurations, by many different Boat Builders and Hardware manufacturers. In addition to those Stanchion Bases in current production, Rig-Rite stocks a variety of Stanchion Bases Custom made to original specifications for direct replacement applications. Rig-Rite can also manufacture other Stanchion Bases on a Custom basis. If a Stanchion Base you require is not listed here, please contact us with a sketch and complete dimensions, including base footprint, hole spacing, and angle. For Backing Plates, . , , , and . and .           These SS Stanchion Bases are in current production, and are available economically.   Rectangular Stanchion Base with Double Bails and a 4° inboard angle. Cast 316 SS Base is (maximum) 3 9/16" long x 2 13/16" wide and attaches to Deck with (4) 1/4" FH screws on 2 5/16" (fore and aft) x 1 13/16" (athwartships) hole centers in ' ' Base pattern. Unit has (2) 1/4"-28 set screws to secure Stanchion.      Trapezoidal SS Stanchion Base with Double Bails and a 5° inboard angle. Formed, Welded SS Base is (maximum) 5" long x 2 3/4" wide x 1/8" thick, and attaches to Deck with (4) 1/4" screws on 4" (inboard) x 2 3/4" (outboard) hole centers in ' ' Base pattern, below. Base has formed drainage channel to prevent water build-up in socket. Unit has 1/4" hole for attachment of Stanchion, hole in Stanchion is normally tapped (1 3/8" from bottom) for 1/4" screw.   SS Backing Plate for use with Trapezoidal SS Stanchion Base with Double Bails. Trapezoidal Backing Plate is (maximum) 5" long x 2 3/4" wide x 1/8" thick, with (4) 1/4" holes on 4" (inboard) x 2 3/4" (outboard) hole centers in ' ' Base pattern.   In addition to the Economy SS Stanchion Bases listed above, Rig-Rite stocks a variety of Custom SS Stanchion Bases made to original specifications for direct replacement applications. Replacement SS Stanchion Bases are listed by Base shape, Rectangular or Trapezoidal, and separately if they attach to the Toerail.     Rectangular SS Stanchion Bases with Single Bail, and a variety of inboard (and outboard) angles, Welded SS Base is (maximum) 3 3/4" long x 2 7/8" wide x 1/8" thick, and attaches to Deck with (4) 1/4" screws on 2 1/2" (fore and aft) x 1 5/8" (athwartships) hole centers in ' ' Base pattern. Unit has (2) 3/16" holes for attachment of Stanchion, holes in Stanchion are normally tapped for 3/16" screws. Often used with Special ' ' Pattern Rubber Base Gasket, , below. and many others. angle (outboard angled)     Heavy-duty Rectangular SS Stanchion Bases with Single Bail, and a 6° inboard angle, bail is on inboard side. Welded SS Base is (maximum) 3 1/2" long x 2 1/2" wide x , and attaches to Deck with (4) 1/4" screws on 1 1/2" (inboard) x 2 11/16" (outboard) hole centers in ' ' Base pattern, below. Unit features drain hole and has (1) 1/4"-20 set screw and additional 3/16" hole to secure Stanchion. and others.    Rectangular SS Stanchion Bases with Single Bail, and a 12° inboard angle, bail is on inboard side. Welded SS Base is (maximum) 3 1/2" long x 2 1/2" wide x , and attaches to Deck with (4) 1/4" screws on 1 1/2" (inboard) x 2 11/16" (outboard) hole centers in ' ' Base pattern. Unit features hole for 3/16" screw to secure Stanchion.     Rectangular Stanchion Base with Double Bails and a 4° inboard angle. Cast 316 SS Base is (maximum) 3 9/16" long x 2 13/16" wide and attaches to Deck with (4) 1/4" screws on 2 5/16" (fore and aft) x 1 13/16" (athwartships) hole centers in ' ' Base pattern. Unit has (2) 1/4"-28 set screws to secure Stanchion.     Rectangular SS Stanchion Bases with Double Bails, ' ' deck footprint, and a variety of inboard angles. Welded SS Base is (maximum) 3 3/4" long x 2 7/8" wide x 1/8" thick, and attaches to Deck with (4) 1/4" screws on 2 1/2" (fore and aft) x 1 5/8" (athwartships) hole centers in ' ' Base pattern. Unit has (2) 3/16" holes for attachment of Stanchion, holes in Stanchion are normally tapped for 3/16" screws. Often used with Special Rubber Base Gasket, , below. and many others.   Rectangular SS Stanchion Bases with Double Bails, ' and a variety of inboard angles. Welded SS Base is (maximum) 3 3/4" long x 2 7/8" wide x , and attaches to Deck with (4) 1/4" screws on 2 1/2" (fore and aft) x 1 5/8" (athwartships) hole centers in ' ' Base pattern. Special Heavy-duty Base is formed before Stanchion receiver tube is welded, allowing larger weld with greater penetration. Unit has (2) 3/16" holes for attachment of Stanchion, holes in Stanchion are normally tapped for 3/16" screws. Often used with Special Rubber Base Gasket, , below. and are shown here for identification only.  ***   Heavy-duty Rectangular SS Stanchion Bases with Double Bails, and a variety of inboard angles. Welded SS Base is 4" long x 3" wide x , and attaches to Deck with (4) 1/4" screws on 2 1/2" (fore and aft) x 2" (athwartships) hole centers in ' ' Base pattern. Socket has drainage hole to prevent water build-up, and has (2) 1/4"-28 set screws to secure Stanchion. This base is also available with a variety of other inboard angles, please specify. and many others. These bases were originally made in chrome-plated Cast Bronze. angle as used on Sabre 38.    Heavy-duty Rectangular Stanchion Base with angled Double Bails and a 6° inboard angle. Cast 316 SS Base is (maximum) 3 11/16" long x 3" wide and attaches to Deck with (4) 1/4" screws on 2 3/8" (fore and aft) x 1 7/8" (athwartships) hole centers. Unit has (2) 1/4"-20 set screws to secure Stanchion. Beautifully Cast unit is   Heavy-duty Rectangular SS Stanchion Base with Double Bails has 10° inboard angle. Welded SS Base is 4" long x 3" wide x and attaches to Deck with (4) 1/4" screws on 3 1/8" (fore and aft) x 2 1/8" (athwartships) hole centers. Unit features drain hole and has (1) 1/4"-20 set screw and additional 3/16" hole to secure Stanchion.   Trapezoidal SS Stanchion Base with Double Bails and a 5° inboard angle. Formed, Welded SS Base is x 2 3/4" wide x (maximum) 5" long x 1/8" thick, and attaches to Deck with (4) 1/4" screws on 4" (inboard) x 2 3/4" (outboard) hole centers in ' ' Base pattern. Unit has 1/4" hole for attachment of Stanchion, hole in Stanchion is normally tapped (1 3/8" from bottom) for 1/4" screw.         Heavy-duty Trapezoidal SS Stanchion Base with Double Bails and a 6° inboard angle. Welded SS Base is x 2 1/2" wide x (maximum) 3 7/8" long x and attaches to Deck with (4) 1/4" screws on 1 13/16" (inboard) x 3 1/8" (outboard) hole centers in Base pattern. Unit features drain hole and has (1) 1/4"-20 set screw and additional 3/16" hole to secure Stanchion. Cape Dory, and others.        Trapezoidal SS Stanchion Base with Large Footprint and Large 3/8" Single Bail. Welded SS Base is 5" wide x (maximum) 4" long x 1/8" thick, and attaches to Deck with (4) 1/4" RH screws on 3 1/8" (inboard) x 2 5/16" (outboard) hole centers. Unit features outboard drain hole and has (2) 1/4" set screws for attachment of Stanchion.       Trapezoidal SS Stanchion Base with Large Footprint and Double Bails. Welded SS Base is 4" wide x (maximum) 4 3/4" long 1/8" thick, and attaches to Deck with (4) 1/4" screws on 3 11/16" (inboard) x 2 1/8" (outboard) hole centers, and a fifth hole in the center in ' ' Base pattern. Unit features drain hole and has (2) 3/16" holes for attachment of Stanchion, holes in Stanchion are normally tapped for 3/16" screws.            : SB 36-A28: Special Heavy-duty Stanchion Base as used on Trapezoidal SS Stanchion Base has a 90° angle and a Double Base is 1/8" thick x (maximum) 4 5/8" long x 4" wide and attaches to Deck with (4) screws on 3 5/8" (inboard) x 2 1/8" (outboard) hole centers, athwartships hole centers are 3 1/16" apart. Stanchion socket is 3 1/4" high, unit features drain hole and has (2) 1/4"-20 set screws to secure Stanchion.   : SB 36-J46: Special Heavy-duty Stanchion Base as used on Trapezoidal SS Stanchion Base has a 90° angle and a Single Heavy-duty Base is 3/16" thick x (maximum) 4 3/4" long x 4" wide and attaches to Deck with (4) screws on 3 3/4" (inboard) x 2 3/4" (outboard) hole centers, athwartships hole centers are 3 1/8" apart. Stanchion socket is 4" high, unit features drain hole and has (2) 1/4"-20 set screws to secure Stanchion. Base is bent to fit the 1/4" outboard deck rise of the   : SB 36-J160: Special Heavy-duty Stanchion Base as used on Trapezoidal SS Stanchion Base has a 90° angle and a Single Heavy-duty Base is x (maximum) 4 1/2" long x 6" wide and attaches to Deck with (4) screws on 2" (inboard) x 3 1/4" (outboard) hole centers, athwartships hole centers are 4 1/2" apart. Stanchion socket is 5" high, unit features drain hole and has (2) 1/4" holes to secure Stanchion. As used on and in other Heavy-duty applications.   Discontinued Trapezoidal SS Stanchion Bases have a Double 5/16" Bail. Base is 3" wide x (maximum) 3 3/4" long and attaches to Deck with (4) screws on 2 1/8" (inboard) x 2 13/16" (outboard) hole centers, athwartships hole centers are 2" apart. Marked with part number.     Special SS Toerail-mounted Stanchion Base with Single bail attaches to Toerail with 2 and to Deck with (2) 1/4" screws on 1 5/8" centers. Base is 2 7/8" long and extends 2 7/8" out from Toerail face. Unit has (2) 1/4"-28 set screws to secure Stanchion. and others. and others.   Toerail Mounted SS Stanchion Base w/ Bails - 4°: Gibb 36-T2-4X: Discontinued SS Toerail-mounted Stanchion Base with (2) bails attaches to Deck, and to Toerail with (2) 1/4" screws on 2 1/2" centers. Flat base (against Toerail) is 3 1/2" long x 1 1/2" high. Stanchion is secured with screw threaded in Stanchion. Marked Gibb.     Special SS Toerail-mounted Stanchion Base without bails attaches to Toerail with 2 and to Deck with (2) 1/4" screws on 1 5/8" centers. Unit has (2) 1/4"-28 set screws to secure Stanchion.   SS Toerail-mounted Stanchion Base without bails attaches to Toerail with (2) 1/4" screws on 2 1/4" centers, a third screw (1/4") goes through Stanchion and Toerail. Flat base (against Toerail) is 3" long x 1 1/2" high. Unit has open bottom, and (1) additional 1/4"-20 set screw to secure Stanchion. and others.   Special Recessed SS Stanchion Base fits in 1 1/8" hole in Deck and attaches to Deck with (3) 1/4" screws in circular pattern. Round Base is 3" diameter and protrudes only 3/32" above Deck and 1 3/8" below Deck. Unit has 1/2" hole in bottom. Also frequently used as mount for removable Ladder (in pairs), or as Flagstaff mount.   Special Rubber Gasket for Stanchion Bases with "H" pattern deck footprint. Black Rubber Gasket has self-adhesive backing on one side and is stuck to Stanchion Base before installation. Gasket helps cushion deck stresses, while the small (5/32") holes for the 1/4" mounting screws help seal the deck from water intrusion. Rubber Gasket is (maximum) 3 11/16" long x 2 13/16" wide x 1/16" thick, with holes on 2 1/2" (fore and aft) x 1 5/8" (athwartships) centers. Suitable for use with all SS ' ' pattern Stanchion Bases listed above. ~ Back to Stanchion Bases Main Page ~ ~ Back to Hardware Main Page ~ Boat Reviews Boats Specs Marine Pros Boat Insurance Boat Warranties Boat Transport Boat Towing Marine Forecasts Your Ultimate Boating Resource What Is A Stanchion Used For On A Boat? A stanchion is an important piece of equipment used on boats for a variety of purposes. It is a vertical post or bar that is used to provide support and stability to the boat. Stanchions are typically made from metal, wood, or plastic and can be found in a variety of sizes and shapes. Stanchions are most commonly used on sailboats to provide support for the mast. They are also used to secure lifelines, which are safety lines that run along the edge of the boat and provide protection against falls overboard. Stanchions can also be used to secure railings, guardrails, and other safety equipment on board. In addition to providing support and stability, stanchions can also be used as anchor points for mooring lines or fenders when docking a boat. They can also be used as tie-down points for securing items such as kayaks or other watercrafts when transporting them on board. Stanchions come in many different styles and materials depending on their intended use. For example, stainless steel stanchions are often preferred for their durability and corrosion resistance in saltwater environments. Wood stanchions may be more aesthetically pleasing but require more maintenance than metal ones due to their susceptibility to rot and decay over time. Plastic stanchions are lightweight and easy to install but may not provide as much strength or stability as metal or wood ones do. No matter what type of stanchion you choose, it is important that it is properly installed according to manufacturer’s instructions in order to ensure its effectiveness in providing support and stability for your boat. Properly installed stanchions will help keep your boat safe while out on the water so you can enjoy your time out at sea without worry! 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To be updated with all the latest news, offers and special announcements. Privacy Policy {{>productsMenu}} Products {{>trendsMenu}} News & Trends Equipment > Deck fittings, Boat care > Boat stanchions, arches and guardrails What’s new? Manufacturers 3D MARINE  (11) ARC Marine  (3) assea  (4) Atkins & Hoyle Ltd.  (1) Atlantic Towers  (6) Atlantis Italia  (3) ATN  (2) Attwood  (1) Beachcomber Fiberglass Technology  (2) Beekmans RVS  (1) Bimini Top Nautica  (3) Blue Performance  (3) Blue wave rigging hardware  (1) BSI A/S  (1) C-QUIP  (1) Canepa & Campi  (1) CARBON EQUIPMENT ltd  (1) Carbonautica  (2) CEREDI  (2) Detmar  (2) Directeck  (2) Eval  (3) Exit Carbon  (3) Fishmaster  (1) Foresti & Suardi  (6) Garelli  (1) Gemini Marine Products  (6) Goiot Systems  (4) Harken  (1) I-Carbon  (3) INOX MARINE INNOVATION  (22) Klepper Lifestyle GmbH  (3) LalucenteInox  (1) Lenhardt & Wagner  (1) Liros  (1) Mar Quipt  (1) Marine Accessories B.V.  (2) Marinetech Edelstahlhandel GmbH & Co.KG  (7) Mate USA Llc - Deerfield Beach FL USA  (11) MAVIMARE  (2) Mazzer Srl  (2) Metalstyle Srl  (2) MPI-INOX  (3) nauticalcreations llc  (1) Nautinox  (26) NAVISHELL  (1) NENUPHAR  (1) Nettuno Marine Equipment  (8) NODUS FACTORY  (3) NorSap AS  (1) Ocean s.r.l.  (1) Olcese Ricci  (1) Opacmare  (1) Orange Marine  (1) Osculati  (3) Qingdao Allshine Marine Accessories Co,.Ltd  (2) Qingdao K-Wing Industry Co., Ltd  (1) Razeto & Casareto  (6) Roca Industry  (1) Samar  (1) Schaefer  (1) Seasmart  (7) Seldén Mast AB  (2) Solimar  (1) Spinlock  (2) Suncor Stainless  (2) SWISS CARBON Marine Systems  (2) Tallon Marine  (1) TeakFlex  (1) Tessilmare Srl  (14) Tietoset Marine Ltd.  (2) Tornado Boats International ApS  (1) TR INOX  (21) Trend Marine Products  (1) UltraGlozz Co. 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Corp.  (1) roll bars  (62) arches  (5) grab rails  (49) staffs  (29) grab rails supports  (17) rub rails  (17) scuba tank racks  (13) rub rail ends  (10) boat solar panel brackets  (9) pulpits  (7) stanchions  (7) blocks  (6) covers  (6) lifeline terminals  (6) stanchion sockets  (6) tow bars  (4) universal mounts  (3) fairleads  (3) lifeline backrests  (3) nets  (2) boarding poles  (1) Application domains for boats (62) for inflatable boats for pontoon boats for boats (40) for commercial fishing boats for open boats for yachts (23) friction (3) high-resistance (2) mast foot (1) vertical (1) Working load Breaking load, center diameter. & reach your clients in one place, all year round {{product.productLabel}} {{product.model}} {{#each product.specData:i}} {{name}} : {{value}} {{#i!=(product.specData.length-1)}} {{/end}} {{/each}} {{{product.idpText}}} single block WL/2 Working load : 300 kg Compact stanchion lead system Compact furling line guide system Reduces line friction during furling Fairlead model WL/1 straightline guide for intermediate stanchions Sheave model WL/2 for line entry and exit stanchions with unique ... single block 7402 Working load : 227 kg Weight : 152 g Harken® recommends equipping every system with Carbo lead blocks for safe furling from the cockpit. A 7402 ratchet maintains tension when spooling so the unit can furl smoothly and easily. Both the 7401 and 7402 have ball and socket bases ... sailboat lifeline terminal 174-356 PELICAN HOOK WIRE ø4(LIFE LINE 174-356 Weight: 175.00 g Wire diameter: 4 mm sailboat fairlead 480-501-01 FAIRLEAD DOUBLE, STANCHION ø25/30 Weight: 169.00 g Width: 58 mm Height: 72 mm boat grab rail 2054-5 Streamlined with a molded, hinged, built-in fastener cover system, an Attwood exclusive. A unique, new Grab Handle that looks and works great on runabouts, fishing boats, jet boats, and RVs. Clean styling, shaped to fit your hand for ... boat stanchion socket 15.480.26 This rod makes it possible to have a shower head on the stern gangplank. Made of black anodized aluminium + stainless steel parts. The shower head can be adjusted in any position. Lightweight and telescopic for easy storage, rod outer ... guardrail net 02040-0001 Item No. - 02040-0001 Default condition - SP (Reel) Diameter - 2.00 - mesh openings approx. 45 mm - netting width 60 cm - 50 m lengths Description Premium knotted safety netting of two mm white, braided Polyester with reinforced ... boat stanchion ST30 - ST42 Removable stanchion with internal locking device. Made of carbon fibre, clear matte finish. Tubes with different lenght are made to order. It is used to protect stern / swimming platforms, yacht balconies and terraces. It is easy and ... boat flag-staff FP01X Removable flag pole. Material : stainless steel Aisi 316L and carbon fiber. Removable and easy system with anti rotation quick lock. Once the rod has been removed, only the "female Smartlock" remains visible, which can be used via ... boat flag-staff FP02 boat grab rail support 1279 Open: Ø 40 mm. Base: 62 x 33 mm. Center projection: 55 mm. Note: items are intended brass chrome plated unless otherwise specified. boat grab rail support 127902 Open: Ø 38 mm Base: 52 x 48 mm Center Projection: 50 mm Note: items are intended brass chrome plated unless otherwise specified. boat grab rail support 1305 Handrail: Ø 20 mm. Note: items are intended brass chrome plated unless otherwise specified. boat grab rail 377A.C Brass handrail 377A600 x 48 mm 377B800 x 48 mm 377C1400 x 48 mm Brass handrail. Finish .L Polished .C Chromed Length 600 mm 800 mm 1400 mm boat grab rail support 47B.C Brass handrail fittings DimensionsØ 65 x H. 75 mm Finish .L Polished .C Chromed Hole diameter Ø 30 mm pulpit universal mount 52B.C Brass handrail fittings 52BØ 60 x H. 45 mm 142BØ 70 x H. 50 mm Bases for pulpit. Vertical 90°. Finish .L Polished .C Chromed Hole diameter Ø 22 mm Ø 25 mm sailboat lifeline terminal Gate This top of the line Gate-Hook, is based on the “over the center” principal. The load is carried on the body, not on the hook, for greater safety and ease of operations. boat stanchion SPORT’AL 25 Goiot's Sport'Al 25 stanchions have been developed with aerospace-quality material, known for its strength and lightness. Designed for yachts with simple or double rows of guardrails, this 25 mm diameter range is rather aimed at units ... boat grab rail LEONARDO Tall “swimming pool” style or standard size ladder grips, they can be left on deck or taken away with a few turns of a hand operated screw. They are available alone or they can be combined with Dalì or with your already existing ladder, ... boat grab rail MIRO boat flagstaff ALISEO+ A whole new range of flagpoles is now available in carbon fibre. Highest technology construction and fantastic matte finishing with different sizes and diameters to perfectly match the stern or the deck of your yacht. The elegant Exit ... sailboat arch Our hoops are manufactured with us from A to Z. We make them in order, to the dimensions of your boat and according to your needs. A multitude of options are available for you to install your solar panels, your wind turbine, your dinghy ... boat roll bar Feito de aço inoxidável 316L diam 28, para garantir a estética do seu barco e não pesar muito. Nós podemos fabricar para todos os modelos de veleiros. a montagem é rápida e simples, o bastidor é entregue com os parafusos. Você também ... boat roll bar Girofix The arch founded on the Girofix allows you to lift a heavier annex, more than 80 Kgs. Consult us for the weight limit. Manufactured on demand in tube diam40, the arch will allow you to fix a multitude of things (the annex, the solar ... boat rub rail BINOX The first Stainless Steel fender profile WITHOUT SCREWS. Binox is the latest creation by Tessilmare and it was specifically developed for Mega Yachts. The innovative process in the construction of Binox RubRail allows a pressure ... boat rub rail end BINOX Joint Cap The elegant Stainless Steel joint caps keep the bars perfectly aligned, therby allowing a better technical and aesthetic effect. Joint caps are available for all Binox sizes. boat rub rail end BINOX The elegant Stainless Steel end caps provide the finishing touch for a streamlined finish. End caps are available for all Binox sizes. boat flagstaff AF AF.2 is a removable FLAG POLE of a max lenght of 2,5m. Construction is carbon//epoxy, with carbon pre-preg technology, consolidated in autoclave and cured at high temperature (>90°C). Finishing is shiny C-LOOK with UV protection ... boat grab rail Rails are completely made of stainless steel. Designed to improve the safety of ours equipment users. inflatable boat roll bar R01 boat roll bar Alfa Standard Rollbar- Biminitop on stainless steel 316L polished bright. Fabric 100% Acrylic dyed in mass Standard Rollbar+Biminitop on stainless steel 316L polished bright. It is conceived as a multibrand, for motor boats, OPEN, ... boat roll bar Alfa 2 Standard Rollbar- Biminitop on stainless steel 316L polished bright. Fabric 100% Acrylic dyed in mass. Standard Rollbar+Biminitop on stainless steel 316L polished bright. It is conceived as a multibrand, for motor boats, OPEN, ... boat roll bar Beta Standard Rollbar+Biminitop on stainless steel 316L polished bright. It is conceived as a multibrand, for motor boats, OPEN, WA, CRUISER, ETC, with a 400mm long x 40 mm wide mounting flat surface. Available in various widths and ... single block 7392 Center diameter : 20, 25, 28, 30 mm Stanchion block.For stanchion diam. 20 mm to 25 mm Ball bearing sheave diam. 30 mm single block HK® single Working load : 3,000 kg - 6,000 kg Breaking load : 6,000, 12,000, 8,500 kg Center diameter : 32, 22, 16 mm HK16®, the Textile Hook® opening friction ring is the lightest and strongest sheet control solution on the market! This opening friction ring is easy to position on the rope and its double safety textile attachment system prevents ... single block P Hi-Tech® Working load : 200 kg - 350 kg Breaking load : 700, 500, 400 kg Center diameter : 8, 6, 5 mm The Nodus Pulley is strong, safe, simple and efficient. Loads are driven directly from the sheaves to the attachment point, allowing for lightweight side plates. The link blocks share the same performance bearing system as the dynamic ... sailboat fairlead Pad-Filoir® Nodusfactory mast and deck wire The Nodus Factory bonding line is specifically designed to be mounted by bonding on a mast, a boom or on the deck for sheeting or furling line. + Use - Mast and deck fittings - Mast, boom, spinnaker ... sailboat lifeline terminal 6949 / 695X boat roll bar 1950 Boat arch for ribs and boats with a contemporary design made of mirror-polished AISI 316L stainless steel designed to fit virtually any boat with flat deck/fixing point area. Our boat a-frame Wing consists of 3 parts: 2 laterals and one ... boat roll bar 1950T Bimini arch for ribs and boats with an innovative and attractive design made of mirror-polished AISI 316L stainless steel, designed to fit virtually any boat with flat deck/fixing point area. Our boat a-frame WING consists of: 2 laterals ... boat roll bar 1960 Boat arch for ribs and boats with an innovative and attractive design made of mirror-polished AISI 316L stainless steel designed to fit virtually any boat with flat deck/fixing point. EVO a-frame consists of 3 parts: 2 laterals and one ... boat stanchion QUICK-LOCK Our removable stanchion system is made of carbon fibre tube and AISI316L stainless steel fittings. We used the quick-mount devices for the deck base and the male plug. The stanchions are available in 3 sizes, with tube diameters 66 mm, ... boat stanchion BAYONET LOCK The removable bayonet-mount stanchion has a special deck socket to be mounted on the boat and a bayonet coupling device that engages with a 90° rotation. The stanchions are available in 2 sizes, with tube diameters of 45 mm or 66 mm. ... boat flag-staff FP 3363 Our removable flag pole consists of 2 types: one with a screw connection and one with quick-lock connection. Both are made of carbon fibre tube and AISI316 stainless steel fittings. The screw-lock flag-pole has a threaded pin end, which ... boat roll bar SUPERIOR The Bimini Top SUPERIOR with boat roll bar included is handy and sturdy and thanks to its telescopic 316L stainless steel structure, it easy to be closed with spring buttons. Front and rear canvases are joint by stainless steel Norwegian ... boat roll bar STRANGE The STRANGE single tube roll bar with Bimini Top combines the advantages of a roll bar with the lightness of a Bimini Top. The base and the side plates give strength to the structure and the possibility of applying navigation lights ... boat roll bar STRANGE XL The STRANGE XL single tube roll bar with Bimini Top combines the advantages of a roll bar with the lightness of a Bimini Top. The base and the side plates give strength to the structure and the possibility of applying navigation lights ... BINOX is the first Stainless Steel 316 L Rub Rail without screws. The BINOX Rub Rail is set to revolutionize the Rub Rail industry around the world. BINOX is fitted without the use of unsightly screws and attachments. There are ... TOP AND END CAPS Well-designed and functional top caps successfully cover the gaps at joints and keep the bars perfectly aligned and avoid the two-screw unaesthetic look. Elegant stainless steel end caps give the boat the finishing touch. Your suggestions for improvement: Please specify: Help us improve: Receive regular updates on this section. Please refer to our Privacy Policy for details on how NauticExpo processes your personal data. Boat roll bars Boat grab rails Stainless steel grab rails Grab rails supports Boat rub rails Yacht rub rails Razeto & Casareto grab rails supports Manufacturer account Buyer account Our services Newsletter subscription AboutVirtualExpo Group Please verify you are a human Access to this page has been denied because we believe you are using automation tools to browse the website. This may happen as a result of the following: Javascript is disabled or blocked by an extension (ad blockers for example) Your browser does not support cookies Please make sure that Javascript and cookies are enabled on your browser and that you are not blocking them from loading. Reference ID: f3ee489d-7636-11ef-8e57-894690162194 Powered by PerimeterX , Inc. 129 IMAGES Lackey Sailing How to Make and Install Stanchion Poles Stanchion Base Lackey Sailing Part A. Installing Sailboat Stanchions Stanchion Base VIDEO play stanchion 1 Stanchion motion  LPC Creating ship stanchion part 1 Sea&Stars Seafarer 22 Sailboat Refit S1E2 Project Overview Leaving the dock singlehanded Double Fairlead On Hunter 25 Sailboat COMMENTS Lifeline Stanchion Spacing Images: 1. Lifeline Stanchion Spacing. I have a 33' sailboat with fixed bow and stern pulpits but only 3 stanchions in between. The lifelines go outside the shrouds amidships and rest against the uppers with the nearest stanchions are about 7' fore and aft. This arrangement does allow me to keep them nice and tight, but they also tend to climb ... How safe are your guardrails? Guardrails and stanchions can save your life, so it's essential to make sure they are in good condition. Ian Nicholson's industry reference, The Boat Data Book, gives good advice: for a yacht up to 12m LOA, use wires of at least 4mm diameter in 316 grade stainless steel, 1×19 construction and a maximum stanchion spacing of 2.2m. Industry ... Lifeline stanchions It would have four through bolted mounting bolts with a 1/8" backing plate. All bolts will have appropriate size washer on the inside. the stanchions will be 36" long by 31/32" held in place with through bolt and lock nut. The stachions will have two safet SS wire. A Strong Stanchion to Save Your Life Step 2. Remove interior trim or headliner to expose the nuts holding the stanchion base in place. Remove the nuts with a wrench. You may need a helper on deck with a large screwdriver to stop the bolt from turning. Withdraw the bolts and inspect for pitting or crevice corrosion. Replacing Your Lifelines Stanchion height and placement, line spacing (both horizontally and vertically), tension, deflection, toerails, etc. all need to be carefully considered. For professional installation or to discuss your own lifelines, email us at [email protected] or call us at 619-223-3788. We always look forward to hearing from you! Guard Wires Stanchions should normally be a minimum of 610mm high and are often as high as 900mm, with a maximum spacing of approximately 2 metres. Normally, two wires are fitted: an upper guard wire at full height (minimum 600mm) and a lower guard wire at an intermediate level. Installing Stanchions and Lifelines on my Sailboat Every Fall I remove the stanchions and lifelines from my sailboat, so I have to put them back on in the Spring. This video shows the procedure and also incl... Lifeline Stanchions: New Aluminum Matella Is Super Strong The base even has two O-rings, which makes caulking unnecessary. The Matella stanchions are available in three lengths—26″, 28″ and 30″ and Practical Sailor recommends the longest. They're even available in colors—bronze, red, green, blue and any other on special order. They fit deck thicknesses from 3/8″ to 1-3/8″. Section 5 Bulwarks, guard rails and other means for the ... The spacing of these stays forward of 0,07L from the forward perpendicular is to be not more than 1,2 m on Type `A', Type `B-60' and Type `B-100' ships (as defined in Pt 3, Ch 11, 1.1 ... supported by stanchions not more than 10 m apart, or a single hand rail or wire rope attached to hatch coamings, continued and adequately supported between ... Stanchion Layout Plus, the spacing interval remains consistent between the bow pulpit and each stanchion thereafter (other than the gate). The spacing between the 4th stanchion and the stern pulpit is a bit shorter, but with the gate located where it is, and other considerations and conflicts, there is no way to make all the lengths exactly the same. Where you tie fenders? Usually race boats are designed to minimize the number of stanchions and take advantage of the maximum spacing. Rarely are stanchions placed at maxim beam. Many race boats do not have toe-rails and for a 29 foot boat the gap between stanchions is about ¼ the length of the boat. I've seen people insist on tying fenders to stanchion bases and ... Stanchions Stanchions are usually (and properly) separate and removable from their Stanchion Bases. It is common for Stanchions to bend (when meeting pilings or other boats); we believe it is not reasonable to require a boat owner to go through the extra time, difficulty and expense of unbolting the Stanchion Bases from the deck when only a Stanchion ... replacing lifelines Jun 25, 2012. #9. The stanchions are bolted from the under side of the toe rail. The screws are machine screws attached to an aluminum plate imbedded in the deck. You can remove the the stanchion and drill out the hole for the life line and put a plastic farrell in to protect the lifeline. A. Mounting Stanchions Re: Mounting Stanchions. Make some pads about 1/2" high. G10, fiberglass, whatever. Bevel the edges for your feet. Epoxy them to the deck. Drill, clean, scuff up the bottom of the stainless with 36 on a mini grinder, acetone, stick on with 5200 not hard then retighted in a few days. Never liked tape. Lifeline Stanchion Retail and bulk packaging available. The Lifeline Stanchion is available in a variety of heights, as well as custom heights. This stanchion is made from grade 316 stainless steel for maximum corrosion resistance and durability. It is ideal for sailboat and powerboat railings. The S3608-0025 Bullet Cap is included in the Stanchion Assembly. SCHAEFER 24"L Stanchion, Fits Boats 26'-31', Two Wire Holes Description. Schaefer's stanchion system offers models for single or double lifelines, with a choice of 24" or 26" height. Heavy-duty 1'' diameter, 1/16" thick stainless stanchion tubes have integral top caps and accept coated lifeline wire up to 5/16'' (8mm) diameter. Other Components. Works with rugged 36-01 stainless base (sold separately ... What's the best was to seal my stanchion bases? Butyl could be good as it works by compression. Another option is Dolfinite. It's a semi-paste (I think that's how it's described). You can put it down at the base, tighten the bolts just enough to hold it in place. Then, once it dries, you can tighten more and the compression will help seal it from water. 1000 stanchions around… Which ones are correct and which ones 7-0.8m apart. Makes sense: people do not have arms of endless lengths. 2m above deck or bulwark. Makes sense as well, you need a stanchion of this length to prevent falling down. Minimum diameter 32mm. Also makes sense: when they are too thin, you can't get a firm grip and your hands might slip. Stanchion Bases Stanchion Bases listed here are for use with 1" (25.4mm) or 25mm Metric Stanchions unless otherwise noted. A Plastic Stanchion Base (Special for C&C Yachts) is listed with other C&C Stanchion Bases, under Aluminum Stanchion Bases. For Backing Plates, See: Stanchion Base Backing Plates. See also, Stanchions. Stainless Steel (1") Stanchion Bases. Stanchion Bases Trapezoidal SS Stanchion Base with Double Bails and a 5° inboard angle. Formed, Welded SS Base is (maximum) 5" long x 2 3/4" wide x 1/8" thick, and attaches to Deck with (4) 1/4" screws on 4" (inboard) x 2 3/4" (outboard) hole centers in 'S' Base pattern, below.Base has formed drainage channel to prevent water build-up in socket. What Is A Stanchion Used For On A Boat? A stanchion is an important piece of equipment used on boats for a variety of purposes. It is a vertical post or bar that is used to provide support and stability to the boat. Stanchions are typically made from metal, wood, or plastic and can be found in a variety of sizes and shapes. Stanchions are most commonly used on sailboats to provide ... Boat stanchions, arches and guardrails The removable bayonet-mount stanchion has a special deck socket to be mounted on the boat and a bayonet coupling device that engages with a 90° rotation. The stanchions are available in 2 sizes, with tube diameters of 45 mm or 66 mm. ... VETUS Stainless Steel Stanchions Description. Tapered 1"dia. stanchions in Type 316 stainless steel with two lifeline wire holes at 12" spacing, except for 18" model with only one hole. catamaran gulet motorboat powerboat riverboat sailboat trimaran yacht