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Blue Jacket 40 Used Boat Review

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Catalina 270 vs. The Beneteau First 265 Used Boat Match-Up

The Ericson 41's solid build and stylish 1960s lines offer an offshore-ready cruiser with class. The slender cockpit means you can brace yourself with a foot on the the leeward side. Which, as it turns out, makes you look classy as well. (Photo/ Bert Vermeer)

Ericson 41 Used Boat Review

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Mason 33 Used Boat Review

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How to Create a Bullet-Proof VHF/SSB Backup

AquaMaps with Bob’s blue tracks and my green tracks at the start of the ICW with bridge arrival times. (Image/ Alex Jasper)

Tips From A First “Sail” on the ICW

Make sure someone is always keeping a lookout on the horizon while the tillerpilot is engaged. If there are a few crew onboard, it helps to rotate who is on watch so everyone else can relax.

Tillerpilot Tips and Safety Cautions

Irwin Vise-Grip Wire Stripper. (Photo/ Adam Morris)

Best Crimpers and Strippers for Fixing Marine Electrical Connectors

We like going one size over what is often recommended for smaller boats. The advantages are a.Less stretch. Nylon can be too stretchy, but polyester not stretchy enough. One size over can be a Goldilocks answer. b.Better wear resistance. Because we like using short chain when hand-hauling, we cover the first 10 feet with a webbing chafe guard. This is very cut resistant, because unlike the rope inside, it is floating and not under tension. c. Better grip. ⅜-in. is pretty hard to grab with the wind is up. ½-in. fits our hands better. (Photo/ Drew Frye)

Polyester vs. Nylon Rode

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Getting the Most Out of Older Sails

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How (Not) to Tie Your Boat to a Dock

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Stopping Mainsheet Twist

This is the faulty diesel lift pump, the arrow is pointing to the sluggish primer lever. That is an issue because the fuel lift pump needs to provide the right amount of fuel and fuel pressure to the injector pump. (Photo/ Marc Robic)

Fuel Lift Pump: Easy DIY Diesel Fuel System Diagnostic and Repair

shorepower connection

Ensuring Safe Shorepower

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Sinking? Check Your Stuffing Box

Old, decomposing fiberglass boats in Hennebont, next to Lorient, in the Morbihan region of Bretagne, France. (Photo/ Angie Richard)

What Do You Do With Old Fiberglass Boats?

Replacement door latch made from an off-cut aluminum angle. The crafty DIY repair was made in the remote archipelago of Saint Pierre et Miquelon, where no hinges were readily available. (Photo/ Brett Campbell)

Boat Repairs for the Technically Illiterate

This is the original Yanmar 4JH5E 54hp normally aspirated engine supplied by Beneteau. We've done 6,000 hours over the last 13 years. (Photo/ Brett Campbell)

Boat Maintenance for the Technically Illiterate

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Whats the Best Way to Restore Clear Plastic Windows?

Odorlos Holding Tank Treament Packets

Stopping Holding-tank Odors

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Giving Bugs the Big Goodbye

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Galley Gadgets for the Cruising Sailor

Instead of dreading a squall, think about it as a way to fill up your water tanks. PS tested ways to make sure the rainwater you catch is clean, tasty and safe to drink.

The Rain Catcher’s Guide

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Sailing Gear for Kids

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What’s the Best Sunscreen?

The edges of open shade can read as high as 25 percent of sunlight when surrounded by a white deck. (Photo/ Drew Frye)

UV Clothing: Is It Worth the Hype?

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Preparing Yourself for Solo Sailing

The R. Tucker Thompson is a tall ship based in the Bay of Islands, Aotearoa New Zealand. It operates as a not-for-profit, and takes Northland’s young people on 7-day voyages. (Photo courtesy of R. Tucker Thompson)

R. Tucker Thompson Tall Ship Youth Voyage

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On Watch: This 60-Year-Old Hinckley Pilot 35 is Also a Working…

America's Cup sailboats have progressed from deep-keel monohull J-class Yachts, to regal Twelve Meters, to rambunctious wing-sailed catamarans. The rule now restricts boats to a single hull, but allows retractable, hydraulically actuated foils. Top speeds of 40 knots are common. (Photo/Shutterstock)

On Watch: America’s Cup

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On Watch: All Eyes on Europe Sail Racing

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Dear Readers

  • Sailboat Reviews

Rugged, versatile and handsome, the Pearson 35 has held her value well over the years.

Even to those of us who had begun serious sailing in that era, 25 years ago seems like history. Finisterre , a beamy centerboarder by the standards of the time, with a yawl rig, had won a remarkable three straight biennial Bermuda Races at the end of the 1950s. In 1964 another relatively beamy centerboard yawl, a Pearson Invicta, won again. It was the beginnings of an era of shallow wide boats that not only sailed through a gaping loophole in the popular rating rule of their day but also offered interior space unavailable in the typically narrower, deeper boats that preceeded them.

Pearson 35

Thus, in the mid-1960s when Pearson Yachts sought to replace in its line the venerable but “old fashioned” Alberg 35, it chose to do so with a centerboard 35-footer. Retaining the traditional long overhangs, modest freeboard, curved sheer and moderate displacement, Pearson’s in-house designer Bill Shaw put together the Pearson 35.

The 35 was introduced in 1968 and remained in production for the next 14 years. In all, 514 P35s were built, almost all for East Coast and Great Lakes owners attracted by the 35’s shoal draft (3′ 9″ with centerboard up) and “classic” proportions. Even the popular Pearson 30, usually heralded as the enduring boat from a builder otherwise noted for its frequent introductions of new boats and short production runs, remained in production only 10 years, albeit with almost 1,200 boats built. Equally remarkable during an era when builders were quick to make regular changes to existing boats in concert with their marketing departments (and afix a “Mk” whatever to to designate changes), the 35 remained essentially unchanged. A yawl rig continued to be an option and the original dinette layout was replaced by a traditional settee layout, but otherwise the most significant changes were the variety of auxiliary engines used over the years. Thus in talking about the Pearson 35 we can talk about 14 years of production all at once.

A Close Look At The Boat

The success of the Pearson 35 was no accident. Like the Tartan 27, the Alberg 30, and its Pearson predecessors the Alberg 35, Vanguard and Triton, the P35 gave a broad spectrum of sailors the type of boat they were looking for: traditional design, contemporary styling, solid construction, and eminently livable space both in the cockpit and belowdecks. And those same qualities continue to make the Pearson 35 a highly sought after boat on the used boat market almost 25 years later.

Introduced in the midst of the how-many-does-she-sleep era and, with that, the convertible dinette fad, the 35 boasted six berths, only three or four of which promised comfort. It took a number of years but the discomfort of the dinette/double berth combination became evident and the small upper berth became shelf space. Remaining have been the good sized forward V-berths and a reasonable transom (pull-out) berth in the main cabin. In the mid-1970s a pull-out double berth replaced the dinette although it remained better as a single berth with the boat capable of sleeping a total of four without crowding.

Excessive berths notwithstanding, the 35 has a livable interior. However, note that it does not have a navigation table, the galley tends to interfere with the companionway, and the head is small by modern standards. We do not consider any of these shortcomings serious.

Although the interior is more spacious than the average boat of her era (but less so than 35-footers nowadays), perhaps the strongest appeal of the 35 is her cockpit. By any standard old or new it is big (over 9′ long), comfortable, and efficient, equally suitable for sailing or dockside entertaining, especially with wheel steering and a sloop rig to leave it uncluttered by tiller or mizzenmast. The lack of a quarterberth results in sail lockers port and starboard as well as a usable lazerette.

Below, the decor is strictly functional with a fiberglass head and hull liner and lots of Formica, a plastic enactment of the typical decor of the 1970s.

The performance of the Pearson 35 is moderately good (average PHRF base rating, about 180). Like many moderately beamy boats with full keel and low aspect sailplan, she quickly picks up a weather helm as she heels. However, the combination of adjustable centerboard and judiciously shortened sail makes that helm only inconvenient, not annoying, especially if the 35 is equipped with wheel steering. She tends to be at her worse in lighter winds, particularly when seas are sloppy, at her best on a close reach in at least moderate winds, then she feels fast, solid and seaworthy.

Pearson 35

Owners report no lack of confidence in the 35, either in her strength or performance, in storm conditions. However, the size of the cockpit is a serious drawback in heavy seas offshore.

The original engine in the 35 was the Universal Atomic 4, about the largest (and heaviest) boat for which that engine is suitable, with the prop in an aperture. By 1975 the Farymann diesel became an option, followed by a variety of Westerbeke and Universal diesel engines. Accessibility to the Atomic 4 was marginal; for the diesels it became next to impossible, prompting the most common owner complaint about the boat: retrofitting a diesel to replace the Atomic 4 is difficult.

The 35 would never be mistaken for a motorsailer, given her succession of modestly powered engines. It would be a shame to further saddle her mediocre light air performance with the drag of a three bladed prop to improve performance under power; backing down will always be “an adventure,” as one owner deems it, regardless of engine or prop.

The spars and rig of the 35 are workmanlike. Owners of yawls extol the opportunity to “get anywhere in anything” with jib and jigger. However, with slab reefing we’d opt for the sloop rig. Sail area is not so large that it cannot be worked even with a shorthanded crew, and “modern” conveniences such as roller jib furling and roller travelers make the task even more feasible.

As a further aid, several owners report having fitted their 35s with an inboard staysail, in effect a double head rig, but the short foretriangle base (“J”) of the 35 would seem to militate against much effectivess from that rig except in extreme conditions.

What To Look For

With the few changes in the Pearson 35 during her long production run, any basic faults with the boat were soon cured in the earliest models. There seems to have been few even of these. Indeed, the 35 is structurally a rugged vessel. As a result, buyers in the market for a 35 should concentrate on the effects of age on particular boats. Following is a sampling of the problems owners report:

– The aluminum ports, fiberglass hatches, and through deck fittings such as stanchions and chainplates are prone to leaking. So too on occasion does the hull-to-deck joint. These are largely annoying rather than serious and no more so than any boat of the vintage of the 35.

– The centerboard boat definitely has appeal, but with that appeal goes difficulties of maintenance including that of the pennant and pivot. Any survey of a prospective purchase should include a thorough inspection of the board, trunk, pivot and pennant.

Incidentally, some owners report having permanently pinned the board up (and wedging them to prevent thunking), but we’d think twice before both compromising windward performance and control of balancing the helm by such a move.

– Gelcoat crazing is a common complaint, although most owners have learned to endure the disfigurement while enjoying the rest of the 35’s aesthetic qualities. Bottom blistering seems about average for 10+ year old production boats.

– The rig is the typically rugged one that Pearson is noted for, and its problems are apt to be largely corrosion and age.

– Check the condition of the auxiliary engine with the help of a professional. The same goes for the fuel tank. Major repairs or replacement are not easy.

Conclusions

If we were looking for a Pearson 35 we would spend our time checking out those built from the mid-1970s and later but not, if price were an object, one of the last ones built. We would want one with the “standard” (not dinette) accommodation plan, a sloop rig, and a diesel engine, preferably a Westerbeke. Cosmetic abuse would not bother us particularly; the basic quality of the boat lends itself to refinishing with polyurethane outside and even extensive refurbishing inside. A number of owners report upgrading of the interior with woods, fabrics and fittings, reducing or eliminating the formidibly antiseptic fiberglass liner and “teak” faced laminate on the bulkheads.

The degree that the Pearson 35s have retained their value—and seem destined to the prospect of paying a high price for an older boat. And on this score, make no mistake; a vintage Pearson 35 in good condition has become one of the more expensive used boats of her type and original price on the market. For the kinds of use she is best suited for—coastal cruising for up to four—she is a rugged, versatile, and handsome craft for which there should continue to be a healthy market for many years to come.

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Pearsons 35 are easly crossing oceans and circumnavigating so how the bloody hell you classify this strong boat as coastal. It is offshore cruiser you imbecile. Your revue is worthless by missing solid details on the construction.

not fair or called for , to say it is capable for both would be fair description

After watching what this couple went through, not only with regard to this incident, but also others seen in their newer videos, I think I’m crossing this one off my list as a potential boat for anything other than coastal cruising. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6YCq4cz06Y https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CM9H44M-W4M&t=599s

They ran into something at sea and were holed. Can’t really blame the boat.

Ever watch Atomvoyager’s channel?

He frequently makes the entire compartment under the V berth watertight on the boats he works on.

It isn’t hard to do and it is a really good idea.

Also, anyone that ventures off shore should have materials on board to do external patches. Really not difficult to do in moderate warm seas.

After watching the next video, it seems that it was infact a failure of the hull and not an impact, although given the location, it is safe to assume that past impacts were likely a factor.

So, my question is, should we simply write off all old FG boats for offshore use?

Can this sort of thing be detected before actual failure?

The P35 (and many boats built in the early/mid-70s) had high-resin layups in the glass. On the Pearson, the main freshwater tank sits beneath the v-berth, and abuts the interior of the hull; in heavy seas, that puts a tremendous amount of force on the contact point, and leads to failures.

We’re removing the main tank, using a combination of roving and epoxy to make that compartment stronger, and replacing the tank with a flexible bladder.

Beau and Brandy are sailing offshore with their P35; the compression post support block needs to be evaluated and replaced in some circumstances, and the wooden spreaders should be refit with aluminum ones before heading out there.

We also opted to replace the toerail, which covers the deck joint.

All of this is relatively normal for a 40-60 year old boat. Structurally, she is stout, and is cited as a bluewater boat by many others. Ensuring that she is in good condition is a requirement not unique to the model.

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The Pearson 35 : 1968–1982

A sailboat that would combine superb handling, luxury accomodations and an underwater configuration that offered safe and comfortable cruising in both shoal and deep waters.

Safe and Comfortable Cruising

Luxurious and roomy describes the main cabin. Redesigned to offer additional space, the 35 offers upper and lower berths to starboard, settee/berth with upholstered black-rest to port, and a foldaway drop leaf table which seats six or folds neatly against the forward bulkhead when not in use. And overhead there’s a ventilation hatch for plenty of light and air. Stowage is provided in lockers and drawers under the berths and in bookshelves and lockers outboard to port.

The forward cabin has a bureau and shelf stowage. Four drawer lockers are under the roomy, double berth. A sliding door gives complete privacy. To port, in the passageway aft, is the toilet room with stowage outboard and under the vanity. Opposite is a hanging locker, another bureau, an shelf stowage.

At the bottom of the companionway ladder is a huge U-shaped aft galley. To port is a gimbaled stove with oven, large sink, trap stowage under the expansive counter. Shelves and food lockers are located above, and there’s drawer stowage under.

On the starboard side of the galley is a large counter area for navigation. Underneath is a roomy, top-loading icebox. Above and below are additional areas for stowage of navigation equipment, food and utensils. The oilskin locker is something you’ll find very useful.

The more you appreciate the amount of time you spend in the cockpit, sailing or sitting at the mooring, the more you’ll appreciate the Pearson 35’s huge 9’5" cockpit and well-placed pedestal steering.

Her deck plan adds greatly to the pure joy of cruising. Walkways are wide. The foredeck, with enclosed anchor well, is a large sunbathing platform. Winch island caps and toerails are rich teak. In the cockpit is a wealth of stowage space in the lockers port and starboard and in the lazarette aft.

Pearson’s wide choice of decorator fabrics for berths, color coordinated curtains and carpeting will delight the fussiest first mate.

When you think about performance in a yacht, consider this: The Pearson 35 has enjoyed the longest production fun of our entire line of auxiliaries. She’s earned the respect of all those who have a special fondness for a responsive balanced cruising yacht with exceptionally attractive lines and luxurious appointments. She might be called "the boat that made us what we are today."…We may build her forever… Come Sail with Us.

Pearson Yachts Inc. 1970

Pearson 35

Arrangement Plan

Click to enlarge

Pearson 35 Arrangement Plan

Pearson 35 – by the Numbers

Hover on hyperlink for definitions

Sailboat Specifications*
35'
25'
10'
3.8'-7.5'
13,000 lbs
5,400 lbs
Mast Height (above D.W.L.) 44' 6"
Cockpit Length 9' 5"
Auxillary Power Inboard Gas or Diesel
Designer Bill Shaw
Years Built and Number (if known) 1968–1982 (514)
 
Sail Area
550 sq ft
   Mainsail Area 270 sq ft
   Foretriangle Area 281 sq ft
Sail Plan Dimensions
40.7'
13.8'
35.5'
15.2'
40.7'
*approximations from Pearson Yachts
Sailboat Performance Ratios
6.70 Knots
15.9
371
42%
3.50
2.50
29%
174

Sail Plan Dimensions

Forward Cabin: As most owners elect to use this cabin for their stateroom, it features, in addition to the classic V-berth arrangement, a hanging locker to starboard and a locker and bureau to port, providing ample stowage space without encroaching upon areas allocated to guests. A large forward hatch provides light and ventilation as well as ease of access from the deck. A sliding door provides complete privacy for the spacious owners’ quarters.

Toilet Room: Completely enclosed, with a sliding door, permitting passage fore and aft at any time. A molded fiberglass vanity unit, incorporating wash basin highlights the toilet room, soap dish, laundry trap, and expansive storage under. The sole is molded fiberglass, facilitating cleanliness and sump drainage for the optional shower. The inboard bulkhead is studded with individual shelves for personalized storage of toilet articles and the outboard side is given over to the large storage locker with sliding doors. Opposite the toilet room on the starboard side is a large enclosed hanging locker with extensive shelf storage above.

Main Cabin: Big headroom of 6’4" and beam of 10’ give this cabin plenty of room to live in. An L-shaped dinette opens up the floor space but, with an extension on the aft end, readily converts to a U-shaped dinette of a double berth when the table is lowered. A table leaf extends the size of the pedestal mounted table, accommodating seating on all four sides. An upper berth is built into the starboard side, with stowage beneath, and extension transom berth below. A translucent ventilation hatch overhead admits light and air into this commodious and most practical main cabin area.

Galley: Designed to please ship’s cook, the galley is located aft in the most convenient and comfortable part of the boat; features ultra modern materials and ingenuity. Stove and sink are to port. A 9 cubic foot icebox, with molded fiberglass liner, is adjacent to the oilskin locker on the starboard side. More then 12 cubic feet of enclosed storage space highlights this generous and expansive galley. There is even a deep, double level trap locker at countertop outboard of the stainless steel sink. Convenient pot storage is outboard of the stove recess and there are numerous drawers throughout; just the ticket to delight a cook who never before has had a place for everything.

Interior Décor: Exposed hull areas are covered in the luxury look of mahogany, high pressure laminates and vinyl. The headliner is of textured fiberglass; door and joiner work and paneled and hand finished to an exacting degree. A wide choice of contemporary colors are available for the vinyl mattress covers. The resultant décor is warm, rich and tastefully effected

Cockpit: An inviting 9 ½’ Cockpit extends aft to the transom providing convenient athwartship seating with the lazarette underneath. Large sail lockers are located both port and starboard. The teak capped fiberglass coamings are wide and high, comfortable to sit on or against, and incorporate wide winch base areas with handle stowage in cutouts under.

Deck Arrangement: Side decks on the boat are extra wide and uncluttered for safety and ease of sail handling. Forward and companionway hatches are large for easy access and good ventilation. In addition, a hatch has been installed aft of the mast to provide extra light and ventilation in the main cabin. Integral fiberglass moldings on the cabin top permit installation of the optional canvas dodger.

Hull form: The popular keel-centerboard combination makes possible adjustments to improve balance when sailing conditions change; permits shoal draft cruising.

Rig: the conventional masthead rig is the simplest and strongest method of staying a mast in use today. Also, and excellent ratio of sail area to wetted surface insures good all-around performance.

Comfort-minded racer: Beautiful new look in a sleek keel-center-board hull built for competitive racing and adventurous auxiliary cruising. Easy to handle, the Pearson 35 combines stable sailing, regardless of conditions, and fine racing performance potential. A deceptive 10’ beam provides generous accommodations for a boat this size, with wide decks and an extra long 9 ½’ cockpit. Two big cabins sleep 6 comfortably, include a private head, roomy galley and unique dinette arrangement.

Pearson 35 Deck Plan

I’ve often wondered what it takes to become a classic. Is it age, long-term popularity, the vote of experts? Or is it simply continuing acceptance on the part of those to whom the product is intended to appeal? My guess is that a classic represents a mark of excellence and an enduring quality that makes it as appealing as when it was first designed. I designed the first Pearson 35 in 1967 and she was launched shortly thereafter. Under TLS of three owners, interestingly enough she looks as beautiful today as the day we broke champagne on her bow. We set out to create a top-quality sailboat that encompassed these basic attributes while still retaining the ability to perform well under sail. In the twelve years we’ve been building the 35 we have made minor modifications to her interior but have never touched the hull or rig that give her the sailing qualities for which she is famous. During the last few years I’ve given some serious thought into why the 35 is as popular today as when she was first introduced. My opinion is that her undying popularity is a function of a unique combination of elements. And her handling, comfort, spacious interior accommodations and as enormous cockpit appeal just as much to owners today as they first did over a decade ago.

Bill Shaw

Pearson 35 Owners Sites

Pearson35.com

Pearson 35 Forum

Boat Reviews and Resources

Spinsheet (april 1999).

The first Pearson 35 was built in 1968 and the model remained in production, nearly unchanged, until 1982. As a testament to its popularity, this 14-year production run was the longest of any Pearson model built, surpassing the venerable Pearson 30 by four years. More

Practical Sailor (April 1999)

The success of the Pearson 35 was no accident. Like the Tartan 27, the Alberg 30, and its Pearson predecessors the Alberg 35, Vanguard and Triton, the P35 gave a broad spectrum of sailors the type of boat they were looking for: traditional design, contemporary styling, solid construction, and eminently livable space both in the cockpit and belowdecks. More

Blue Water Boats (March 2014 Update)

Shaw’s Pearson 35 has 7′ 6″ centerboard and 3′ 9″ full keel arrangement with connected rudder. She draws inspiration from the CCA rules of the day with her long overhangs, graceful sheer, and modest freeboard, and narrow beam by today’s standards. She is quite heavy with her 371 D/L ratio but has a respectable 15.9 SA/D ratio for light wind. More

PearsonInfo P35

A wealth of information on Pearson sailboats by Dan Pfeiffer. More

Pearson 35 Brochure

Pearson 35

Sailing Whimsy

Adventures on a classic Pearson 35 sailboat

Saturday, March 4, 2017

Restoring a classic pearson 35 sailboat.

pearson centerboard sailboats

Compression post base - where are the bolts? Never found them.
A wet sponge was holding up the mast compression post!

7 comments:

I purchased a Pearson 35 last summer. She needs work. I'm interested in following your work.

We purchased a 1976 Pearson 35 last year. She's in very good condition and surveyed so. We did change the pendant cable last year before we splashed her in. We're did repower this year. However most other work is cosmetic and personalization. Good luck with the project

SV Whimsy, fantastic that you are sharing this info! I just bought a '71 Pearson 35. My biggest concerns right now are repairing the mast support - which I see you have had to do too - and removing/refabbing the forward/bow water tank so i can repair a hole in my starboard bow! I have been trying to remove the tank by cutting around the edges of the "well" with a multi-tool. i've cut through two layers of fiberglass that seemed to attach the top perimeter to the hull and vberth frame, and the two wood/fg tabs on the aft end. but it still doesn't budge. have you gotten to that project yet? or know more about how that tank is secured and how to remove it without just carving it up?

We just purchased a 1970 Pearson 35 in Febuary and are so excited to begin restoring her! So happy you have shared your journey with the rest of us, so we can learn and get an idea of what we are getting into with each new project

I was recently given a 1979 Pearson 35. It seems to be in good condition except for needing a lot of cleaning. One question, does it have a holding tank?

I my hull number 104, the holding tank is the port side tank. It used to be one of the three water tanks. With the new regulations mandating a holding tank we utilized the port water tank. I recommend installing an electronic gauge to provide a means of knowing when the tank is filling up. Don't want any surprises during a long sail. https://www.internationalmarineservice.com/Albin-Pump-Marine-Tank-Level-Indicator-Kit-12-24-p/alb-03-66-012.htm

Was wanting to know if you replaced any of the cabin sole? I have hull 36. It looks like to me that the whole sole structure was built outside of the hull and then dropped In and glassed in around the edges only, I was wanting to know if I can tab in and glass the new sole supports to the hull and then lay new flooring and glass it back to the edges Thanks in advance Ed Zurcher

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Edwards Yacht Sales

Edwards Yacht Sales

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1987 Pearson 39 Centerboard Sloop

  • Racer and Cruiser
  • Cortez, FL, US

Yacht price

1987 Pearson 39 Centerboard Sloop

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Specifications

Descriptions, basic information, dimensions & weight, tank capacities.

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1987 Pearson 39 Centerboard Sloop

  • Corian countertops (2003)
  • Galley down
  • Double deep stainless steel sinks with corian cover.
  • Sliding cupboards over stove
  • Spice rack on bulkhead
  • Nova Kool (2003)refrigerator with freezer in 6.5 cubic foot deep double lid icebox
  • Pots and pans
  • Kitchen utentials
  • Princess 3 burner gimballed stove with oven
  • Corian stove cover which doubles as a serving tray
  • Cutting board
  • Hot and cold pressurized water Microwave
  • Water filter
  • Three batteries (one 2005) in two battery banks totaling approximately 400amp hours
  • Battery selector switch
  • (2) dockside cables
  • 110/12 volt electrical system
  • 55 amp alternator
  • 2.5kw inverter/charger (2003)
  • link 2000 battery monitor (2005)
  • 55HP Westerbeke engine (1998)
  • Luminar 16000 BTU R/C air conditioner new water pump (2004)
  • Bilge blower
  • Auto and manual bilge pumps
  • Cockpit engine panel w/alarms, tach, temp & oil pressure gauges
  • Rudder collar replaced (2006)
  • 2 blade solid prop on 11/2 S/S shaft
  • Prop reconditioned (2006)
  • Bronze ball valves on all underwater thru hulls.
  • owner electric toilet
  • guest manual toilet (2003)
  • (2) 25gallon holding tanks
  • (2) macerators with "Y" valves
  • New shaft and cutlass bearing (2006)
  • New shaft seal (2006)
  • Std Horizon VHF radio with DSC and RAM mike (2003)
  • Navico WP 5000 auto pilot (1998)
  • Stowe Depth and speed
  • Intruments mounted on a pedestal pod
  • Hand held spotlight
  • AM/FM cassette stereo
  • Richie pedestal mounted compass
  • JRC color chartplotter (2003)
  • JRC color 24 mile radar (2003)
  • Garmin portable GPS interfaced with laptop computer (1998 vintage)
  • Epirb with GPS transponder (2004)
  • CQR anchor with 50' chain and 100' rode on bow roller
  • Danforth anchor with 50' chain and 100' rode
  • Six opening hatches
  • 11 opening ports
  • Navigation lights
  • Wheel steering
  • Teak cockpit table and drink holder
  • hatch mounted air scoop
  • Bow pulpit and stern rails
  • Side stanchions with double lifelines
  • Dodger with eisenglass covers
  • Bimini with connector piece
  • (6) life jackets and throw ring
  • Rescue module
  • Manual dinghy davits
  • Fenders and lines
  • Swim boarding ladder
  • Hydralic boom vang
  • Wire standing rigging
  • Roller furling headsail
  • Aluminum keel stepped mast
  • Cabin top mainsheet travler
  • Three Lewmar self tailing winches
  • Two regular Lewmar winches
  • Full batten main
  • 150% genoa (inspected and servived , as required- 2006)
  • Working jib
  • Cruising spinnaker with sock
  • New main sail cover (2004)
  • Two reef points (lines run into cockpit)
  • Main inspected and restitched, as required- 2006)
  • Lazy jacks (controlled from cockpit)
  • Bimini reconditioned (2006)

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  • Sailboat Guide

Pearson 35 is a 35 ′ 0 ″ / 10.7 m monohull sailboat designed by William Shaw and built by Pearson Yachts between 1968 and 1982.

Drawing of Pearson 35

  • 4 / 36 Oriental, NC, US 1977 Pearson 35 $15,900 USD View
  • 5 / 36 Toronto, KS, US 1979 Pearson 35 $17,000 USD View
  • 6 / 36 Weems, VA, US 1977 Pearson 35 $17,000 USD View
  • 7 / 36 Toronto, KS, US 1979 Pearson 35 $17,000 USD View
  • 8 / 36 Oriental, NC, US 1977 Pearson 35 $15,900 USD View
  • 9 / 36 Oriental, NC, US 1977 Pearson 35 $15,900 USD View
  • 10 / 36 Toronto, KS, US 1979 Pearson 35 $17,000 USD View
  • 11 / 36 Oriental, NC, US 1977 Pearson 35 $15,900 USD View
  • 12 / 36 Toronto, KS, US 1979 Pearson 35 $17,000 USD View
  • 13 / 36 Toronto, KS, US 1979 Pearson 35 $17,000 USD View
  • 14 / 36 Oriental, NC, US 1977 Pearson 35 $15,900 USD View
  • 15 / 36 Toronto, KS, US 1979 Pearson 35 $17,000 USD View
  • 16 / 36 Oriental, NC, US 1977 Pearson 35 $15,900 USD View
  • 17 / 36 Toronto, KS, US 1979 Pearson 35 $17,000 USD View
  • 18 / 36 Oriental, NC, US 1977 Pearson 35 $15,900 USD View
  • 19 / 36 Toronto, KS, US 1979 Pearson 35 $17,000 USD View
  • 20 / 36 Oriental, NC, US 1977 Pearson 35 $15,900 USD View
  • 21 / 36 Toronto, KS, US 1979 Pearson 35 $17,000 USD View
  • 22 / 36 Oriental, NC, US 1977 Pearson 35 $15,900 USD View
  • 23 / 36 Toronto, KS, US 1979 Pearson 35 $17,000 USD View
  • 24 / 36 Oriental, NC, US 1977 Pearson 35 $15,900 USD View
  • 25 / 36 Toronto, KS, US 1979 Pearson 35 $17,000 USD View
  • 26 / 36 Oriental, NC, US 1977 Pearson 35 $15,900 USD View
  • 27 / 36 Toronto, KS, US 1979 Pearson 35 $17,000 USD View
  • 28 / 36 Oriental, NC, US 1977 Pearson 35 $15,900 USD View
  • 29 / 36 Toronto, KS, US 1979 Pearson 35 $17,000 USD View
  • 30 / 36 Oriental, NC, US 1977 Pearson 35 $15,900 USD View
  • 31 / 36 Toronto, KS, US 1979 Pearson 35 $17,000 USD View
  • 32 / 36 Oriental, NC, US 1977 Pearson 35 $15,900 USD View
  • 33 / 36 Oriental, NC, US 1977 Pearson 35 $15,900 USD View
  • 34 / 36 Oriental, NC, US 1977 Pearson 35 $15,900 USD View
  • 35 / 36 Oriental, NC, US 1977 Pearson 35 $15,900 USD View
  • 36 / 36 Oriental, NC, US 1977 Pearson 35 $15,900 USD View

pearson centerboard sailboats

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

  • SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
  • D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
  • LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
  • LOA: Length overall in feet
  • Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

From BlueWaterBoats.org :

Pearson Yachts was founded in 1959 in Rhode Island, USA by cousins Clinton and Everett Pearson with their introduction of the first mass production fiberglass sailboat, the Triton 28. During the company’s first era, Pearson Yachts worked with the famous designers in the world to introduce indelible classics that are admired still today. Then they switched to in-house designs and produced a prolific number of winners over the years. The Pearson 35, introduced in 1968, is one of the most popular of their in-house designs with a 14 year production run and over 500 hulls molded. Featured as one of Gregg Nesto’s twenty affordable sailboats to take you anywhere, she is well regarded especially by shoal water sailors along the US Atlantic Coast for her 3′ 9″ board up draft.

Bill Shaw had taken over the design wing of Pearson Yachts and penned this 35-footer as a direct replacement for an often confused 35-foot Carl Alberg classic which was in production from 1964 until 1968. Shaw’s Pearson 35 has 7′ 6″ centerboard and 3′ 9″ full keel arrangement with connected rudder. She draws inspiration from the CCA rules of the day with her long overhangs, graceful sheer, and modest freeboard, and narrow beam by today’s standards. She is quite heavy with her 371 D/L ratio but has a respectable 15.9 SA/D ratio for light wind. At first Pearson advertise her as having racing potential, but as the IOR rules came into vogue they squarely branded her as a cruiser.

The construction is a solid fiberglass hull with a balsa cored deck to reduce weight up high. The 5,400 pounds of lead ballast is distributed in the full keel cavity while the centerboard is fiberglass laminate. Pearson used molded liners overhead and pans below to provide the interior structure and rigidity. Wood gran or off white plastic laminates fit out the interior bulkheads, ceilings, and cabinetry. Aloft is a 44′ 6″ clearance sloop or yawl rig, stepped on deck, and supported below by a weight-bearing bulkhead. Mark I interiors feature a combination dinette / double berth portside aft. Post 1975, they eliminated the the dinette in favor of a true transom berth.

Under sail her best performance is reaching though if you reef the main and jib appropriately she can to windward well. Her 10-foot beam makes tender at first. At 30 degrees she locks in, takes advantage of her CCA overhangs, and has soft motion in a seaway. She has weathered heavy storms and 20-foot seas before coming back to harbor in great shape. In chop, expect some amount of hobbyhorsing because her short waterline length.

Of particular concern on this vintage 35’s is the balsa cored deck. Balsa cored construction was in its infancy during the late 1960’s and 1970’s led by Canada’s C&C and USA’s Pearson Yachts. Pearson’s processes for glassing around deck hardware and the main mast were not in full bloom. The mast is especially a concern as a wet core could jeopardize the integrity of the supporting bulkhead. Later models in the late 1970’s and early 1980’s are known to have cosmetic blister issues due to that era’s boat pox.

Pearson Yachts ceased production of Shaw’s 35-footer in 1982 and all operations in 1991. Slightly over 500 Pearson 35’s were built.

Links, References and Further Reading

» Pearson 35: A popular, well-aged, shoal-draft cruiser, Twenty Affordable Sailboats To Take You Anywhere, Gregg Nesto » Pearson 35 , Boat Reviews by Jack Hornor » The Pearson 35′ Sloop, Boating Magazine, Syd Rogers, April 1968 » Pearson History , Good Old Boat, Steve Mitchell

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1977 Pearson P35 cover photo

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Boats for Sale

35' pearson 35 centerboard sloop cruisers.

35' Pearson 35 Centerboard Sloop

ARCHIVED: This is a previously listed vessel and is no longer offered for sale If you would like assistance locating a similar vessel, Click Here to contact the listing broker.

Very clean and well maintained example of a classic Keel/Centerboard cruiser. New Mast, Rigging & Sails (1999), Newer Yanmar Diesel (1998), Many other upgrades, Wheel, Roller Furling, Full Canvas Enclosure

Brokers' Comments: The Pearson 35 is a classic Bill Shaw design with attractive lines and a long shoal keel with attached protected rudder. The keel/centerboard hull design with a draft of only 3'9" with board up provides for go anywhere capability, while the 7'6" board-down draft allows the boat to go upwind properly where other fixed-keel shoal draft boats cannot. The long cockpit makes for comfortable seating as well as lounging or sleeping areas. The wheel is forward so the helm is protected by the dodger and allows the helmsman to easily reach the sheets. This also means better communication with anyone below.

RCR was a Pearson dealer from 1972 up until the time they closed their doors. Bill was a good designer and his crew built good, honest boats. Being a sailor himself who was college-trained as a Naval Architect and engineer he had an excellent grasp of what a boat needed to be practical in use. We were always proud to be Pearson dealers and their boats have proven to be long lasting and popular designs. This example has been well cared for and upgraded. If your desires run more toward traditional design and styling then Pura Vida is worth a look.

  • Specifications
  • Description

1) Clock and Barometer 2) 27 HP Yanmar Diesel (1997) (currently less than 1000 hours)  3) New fuel tank (1997) 4) 3 blade propeller 5) 2 blade propeller 6) Helm seat 7) Full Batten Main Sail with two reefs and cover (1997) 8) 135 Genoa (1997) 9) Cruising spinnaker 10) Manual two speed Seatiger windlass 11) Lazy Jacks 12) Fenders (4) 13) Life Jackets (4) 14) Life ring 15) Furuno Fish finder/depth finder 16)Garmin GPS with Georgian Bay charts 17) Standard Horizon VHF 18) Signet ‘smart pack’ SL-80 depth, speed, log, temp 19) Autohelm 20) Ritchie SP-5c Globemaster compass in pedestal 21) Schaefer Roller Furling/Reefing system 22) Shore power cord 23) Preventer for main 24) Bimini and dodger 25) All main sail lines brought back to the cockpit 26) Full sunbrella/screened cockpit enclosure 27) 35 lb CQR with 150 feet of chain and 100 feet of 5/8 inch triple braid rode 28) 25 lb Danforth with chain and rode 29) Hot water heater 30) Standing and running rigging new in 1999 31) Mast new in 1999 32) One auto bilge pump, one whale manual bilge pump in cockpit 33) Wheel steering – new cable and pulleys in 2005, rebuilt pedestal in 2013 34) Large array of dock lines 35) Full set of manuals 36) All required running lights, anchor light (led) and foredeck light 37) New head (2012) 38) Solar panel and controller 39) 2 12-volt deep cycle batteries

1) Epoxy bottom 2) Rebed toe rail, replace teak as necessary 3) New hand rails on cabin top 4) New teak and cleats at stern (2013) 5) New cabin opening ports (2011) 6) Rebed hatches and fixed ports (2011) 7) Various yard bills available for inspection 8) Professionally maintained

Listing broker Charles “Corboâ€? Corbishley for more information or to arrange a viewing; O: 585-339-9730, C: 585-752-2530, [email protected]

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PEARSON CENTERBOARD/SHOAL DRAFT



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Singlehanding Pearson 35 Centerboard

pearson centerboard sailboats

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What do people think of the Pearson 35 Centerboard (1970) as a singlehanded boat? This would be on the Chesapeake Bay. Would you suggest any modifications?  

pearson centerboard sailboats

The Pearson 35's were an older CCA era design. They sail pretty will for a boat of that era, but would be a mixed bag for cruising the Chesapeake Bay. Their shallow draft with the board up would allow them to get into many of the shallower anchorages, creeks and rivers. They were reasonably well constructed. They are typically pretty cheap to buy. And that is the good news. On the other hand, they are not very good light air boats, and not very good in a chop, two very common conditions on the Bay. They do not have much ventilation. They have the interior space of a typical 30 or so footer from a later era. In terms of being a good single-hander, with a few modifications such as running halyards and reef lines back to the cockpit, almost any 35 foot boat can be single-handed. But when you talk about how suitable a boat is to single-handing, ease of handling becomes a lot more critrical. When I think of ideal single-handers, in an ideal worldI would suggest that you would not want a rig that depends heavily on large overlapping headsails as these are hard to tack and require a sail change to safely deal with heavy conditions. What ends up happening is that single-handers try to get by with smaller headsails made with heavier fabric that can be roller-furlered on these boats and so give up light air performance. With a boat like the Pearson 35 that has such poor light air performance on the Chesapeake Bay, you are either carrying a light air genoa, which is hard to tack and requires making sail changes or else giving up a lot of sailing days. Jeff  

Thanks Jeff. Extremely helpful. I've been enamoured with the P-35/CB primarily because of the shoal draft, but I'm certainly not settled on it. Are there any shoal draft, 30-35 ft, light-air, family coastal cruisers, well-built, wheel-convertable, single-hand-able, pretty, reasonably priced, used sailboats that you recommend? Tall order?  

pearson centerboard sailboats

I won't comment on the well-built part, I have no personal experience. I have met a number of people who single hand Catalina 38 and love them. They have done the west coast to Hawaii races numerous times. Lots of people cruise them with family too. They are reasonably priced and I am pretty sure they made a shoal draft keel version. There is an active C38 bulletin board where a wealth of information on them is shared. michael oops, I just got the 30-35 foot part. Anyhow C38 is a pretty popular boat  

I've been looking for a min draft (either fixed keel or swing/centerboard) of 4'. Seems like a magic number for gunkholing around Chesapeake rivers and inlets ... but I'd like to hear others opinions.  

PEARSON 35 sailboat specifications and details on sailboatdata.com Pretty sure this model was only available as a keel-centerboarder. But If you find out otherwise, I'd like to know about it. I like to keep these records as accurate as possible. rb sailboatdata.com  

pearson centerboard sailboats

Regardless of the boat, singlehanding depends a bit on your experience and a lot on how the gear is set up. By running halyards and reefing lines aft to clutches and then a winch on the cabintop it's a lot easier. For the jib rig a downhaul by leading a light line through a small block at the tack and thread it through the hanks to the head. Sheeted in drop and pull down with the downhaul and it should fall inside of the lifelines. If you have furling it's easier. Lazyjacks to contain the main are helpful too. If the boat is larger the sails are heavier but the winches are bigger as well. Main difference on a larger boat is to think ahead. Brian  

I'm a bit late for this discussion but I feel I have to weigh-in with my two cents. I've been sailing a 1976 Pearson 35 on the Chesapeake for about 10 years now and, in my humble opinion, there are fewer boats better suited to the Bay. The 3ft 9in draft is perfect for "gunkholing",(That's what we do on the Chesapeake!) her large-ish sail plan allows her to perform pretty darn well in light airs (She is always competative in the "beer can races" at the club) and with her heavier than average displacement, full keel and narrow entry, she plows right through the "Chesapeake Chop" one encounters in a 20+ kt sustained. (Even with her rail in the water she's stable as a rock!) As far as interior design... I'd live on her full time except that I couldn't afford the divorce. For the "Old Bay"... You could do a lot worse than a P35...and a lot of skippers have!  

pearson centerboard sailboats

We have lots of wing keel models of our boat on the Chesapeake. Here are some single handing concepts for you to consider: Single Handing 101 single handing Single Handing 101.1 Midship Cleats Pictures Midship cleat PHOTOS / Flix Single Handing 101.2 HOPPING OFF THE BOAT IS UNNECESSARY single handing  

pearson centerboard sailboats

Have single handed my P35 in SF Bay, to Hawaii and around the islands. Made the 2,000 plus mile passage to Hilo in 15 days averaging a little over 140nm per day in atypical light conditions for that typically blustery run. Boat will sail in light air but won't perform as well as light fin keel boat because of the wetted surface. Boat has moderate overhangs and WILL power into a chop though not as well as the plumb bowed, fat assed modern abortions. But then it's got a really easy motion and it's relatively dry in the cockpit. Only time I had an issue with chop was in the 'Potato Patch' outside the Gate in winds barely strong enough to sail. The Potato Patch is an area that is notorious for lumpy, short period waves that everybody has trouble in. Did have to jibe rather than tack but she still sailed to weather against the short near vertical waves, just not enough power to punch through the eye of the very light wind. Got me out of there relatively quickly on a reach once around. Run a 135 foam luff furling genoa on the furler for ocean passages. That has been a good all around sail from light to 40k plus winds. For the Chesapeake would probably go with a 150% foam luff jib for the lighter winds. Should get you through almost anything you'd chance out in there. Use an Asym on a short removable bow sprit for really light air on close reach to DDW points of sail. Biggest negative is the close quarter maneuvering because of the shallow rudder and full keel. Boat does not turn on a dime, not even a silver dollar. Need a bit of way on to make 90 degree turn into a slip in a narrow fairway. Helps to practice using prop walk to maneuver. In reverse, the boat goes where it wants. I've learned to live with it.  

My family owned two of these, one a yawl-rigged with a Westerbeke diesel and the other an older sloop with the Atomic 4. I much preferred the sloop. Sailed here in the Ft. Lauderdale area with big winds in the Gulf Stream all the time. I really don't get the much earlier comment about not handling chop very well. As has been pointed out, the overhangs were fairly moderate as was the beam, and it's got a fairly fine entry and significant displacement. I found it had a very smooth motion with just the right dynamics to run through anything that could unsettle the boat and crew. I regularly took out people with no sailing experience and they felt very comfortable and secure all the time. No bucking or pounding. Winter conditions in this area bring a lot of winds out of the NE that oppose the stream and stack up the waves to considerable height and nasty faces. Given its displacement and sail plan, I can get the criticism more that it's not the ideal light airs boat. I understand the Chesapeake doesn't have much wind in the summers. The OP didn't mention anything about racing, though. For general cruising and daysailing, the P35 is a gem. Solid, imho good looking, smart cabin layout and cavernous cockpit -- truly, maybe the biggest in its class. There's a reason why Pearson kept it in production for something like 14 years.  

The ability to sail in light air has far more to do with the sailor's skills than a boat's design. Even full keel boats are capable of sailing nicely in light air. The same is true of singlehanding. As Jeff notes, some boats are more easily singlehanded, but the ability to singlehand depends far more on the skill of the sailor than on the design of the boat. If I was looking for a boat today, I'd prefer a fractional rig for singlehanding, but I certainly wouldn't reject any well designed, well built, well maintained boat out of a concern for it's ability to be easily singlehanded or sailed in light air. Those are skills that can be learned.  

I have a 35 and bought it to fix up. The drop keel is broken in half and only have about a foot left. Anyone have drawing of the board so I can make another?  

The board is mostly rectangular except for the end of the board that you already have. You can see the approximate shape here: PEARSON 35 sailboat specifications and details on sailboatdata.com  

pearson centerboard sailboats

In my opinion, any capable sailor can single hand nearly any Marconi rigged boat with roller furling sails, IF he/she has an autopilot or vane gear that will hold the boat on course in any amount of wind and knows how to use spring lines.  

pearson centerboard sailboats

I'm am glad this older thread was resurrected as I just purchased a Pearson 39 and am in the process of becoming comfortable single handling her--especially when it comes to getting back into the slip. The boat does have AP and and spring lines and I plan on reefing very early during this learning stage if I think the winds may pick up during the sail, but still, coming from 30 footers to this does create somewhat of a steep learning curve punctuated by occasional bursts of adrenaline....  

pearson centerboard sailboats

I've sent you a PM with some possibly useful resources. Cheers, Ajax  

I think the traveler/mainsheet being on the cabin top is a disadvantage for singlehanding. You'll have to jump from behind the wheel to trim, release it or draw it to windward as necessary. Fortunately, having an autopilot helps overcome this. Also, if you are comfortable sitting in front of the wheel and reaching slightly behind you to steer, the cabin top mainsheet is less of a handicap. The layout diagram of the P39 on sailboatdata.com is unclear. Is your wheel pedestal far aft or far forward in the cockpit? Where are the primary winches in relation to the helm? These are also factors that impact ease of singlehanding. As you stated, having a self-tacking staysail is a great help, especially in heavy air. One of our members sails a P 367 cutter and that's how he operates. It sounds like your layouts are similar. I'll put you in touch with him so you two can share tips and trials. By a happy coincidence, the critical functions are all within reach from behind the wheel on my boat, though it means stepping over the traveler track when I need to go forward of the wheel. Do you have single line reefing, or jiffy reefing?  

Ajax_MD said: I think the traveler/mainsheet being on the cabin top is a disadvantage for singlehanding. You'll have to jump from behind the wheel to trim, release it or draw it to windward as necessary. Fortunately, having an autopilot helps overcome this. Also, if you are comfortable sitting in front of the wheel and reaching slightly behind you to steer, the cabin top mainsheet is less of a handicap. The layout diagram of the P39 on sailboatdata.com is unclear. Is your wheel pedestal far aft or far forward in the cockpit? Where are the primary winches in relation to the helm? These are also factors that impact ease of singlehanding. As you stated, having a self-tacking staysail is a great help, especially in heavy air. One of our members sails a P 367 cutter and that's how he operates. It sounds like your layouts are similar. I'll put you in touch with him so you two can share tips and trials. By a happy coincidence, the critical functions are all within reach from behind the wheel on my boat, though it means stepping over the traveler track when I need to go forward of the wheel. Do you have single line reefing, or jiffy reefing? Click to expand...

Gail, I am a little pressed for time this morning, but it sounds like some good things were done to make the boat a better single-hander, but things like the conversion to a cutter rig and shortening the boom may actually be heading the wrong direction. Here is the mid-length version (if not exactly short). (I can give you the longer more detailed version if we happen to meet at one of the CHESSS Challenges. Also I don't know how familiar you are with terminology so I will define terms in parenthesis at times to make sure you, I and anyone reading thus understand the terms the same way. I apologize in advance if this is unnecessary.) When you talk about a boat that is a good platform for single-handing there are a variety of aspects that are important. From my perspective, if there was single way to describe the collection of attributes that make a good platform for short handed sailing, it is a boat that is easily adaptable to changing conditions and which sail well across a broad range of windspeeds, points of sail, and sea states with a minimum of number of sail changes and reefs and which can change tacks easily. (This last is not as important for a long range cruiser than it is for a coastal cruiser.) This general 'mission statement' can be broken into a number of components as follows: Easily Driven Hull form: The P-39 actually has a pretty easily driven hull form. Its comparatively cylindrical cross sections mean a minimum of wetted surface for its displacement. It also has comparatively straight 'buttock lines' (This refers to the shape of vertical cuts made through the hull parallel to the centerline of the boat. Hull form drawings show 'waterlines' which are horizontal cuts, Sections, which are vertical cuts made through the hull perpendicular to the centerline.) This helps at the light air of the wind range. But the P-39 has a large displacement relative to its water line length which means that it will quickly and disproportionately build drag as the wind speeds increase. That early increase in drag with wind speed increases means that the P-39 will need to be able to carry more sail area than a boat will less drag in this same wind speed, but to do that the boat needs a lot of stability. Stability: In order to stand up to a large enough sail area to sail well across a broad range of wind speeds, points of sail, and sea states, the boat needs to have a lot of stability across a range of heel angles. This is one of the main shortcomings of the P-39. The rounded sections, and narrow hull form, combined with the height at which its ballast is carried due to the comparatively shallow draft of the keel means that these boats do not have much stability relative to their drag. More than anything else it is the P-39's lack of stability relative to its drag that makes this a tough platform for a single-hander. On the other hand, by using the centerboard to balance the rig, this is somewhat mitigated by the fact that these boats will tolerate higher heel angles than a lot of designs which have greater stability relative to their drag. SA/D: Here is where it gets tough. In order to have decent performance in lighter conditions a boat needs to have an actual SA/D (sail area to displacement ratio) somewhere in the SA/D in the mid-20's range or more. The SA/D that I am referring to here is different than the accepted way of measuring SA/D. Normally SA/D is measured and published with the full mainsail and the 100% Foretriangle. The P-39 like most masthead rigged boats of that era has an SA/D around 16.35. (Yours with the shortened mainsail has something less than that). In order to achieve adequate sail area for light to moderate winds, these boats were designed to be sasiled with very large overlapping genoas. In the case of the P-39, the published sail plan shows a 170% genoa. But as the overlap of the sail increases the efficiency drops considerably. But there are also some other major downsides to large overlap headsails in that they are much harder to trim, stretch more and so need frequent adjustment, are harder to tack, and do not adapt well to changing conditions. So, while it may seem counter-intuitive, because of the disadvantages of of having large overlap genoas, an ideal single-hander actually should have a standing sailplan (main and 100% foretriangle) somewhere in the low 20's. Of course, that is a lot of sail area. In order to effectively use that much sail area, the boat requires a lot of stability and requires a sail plan that can be easily and quickly be depowered (depowered=reducing heel force relative to the required drive force. I am not using that term to mean reefing or furling since furling a jib actually powers up the sail -i.e. makes it rounder). But even if the SA/D of the standing sail plan of the P-39 could be increased to a number closer to 20-or more, the boat lacks the stability to stand up that much sail in a building breeze and the P-39 rig configuration makes it harder depower. Wind range and Ease of Depowering and tacking: It is the rig configuration that is one of the most critical elements of the P-39 that makes it a less than ideal platform for a single-hander. When we talk about depowering a sailplan, it is all about controlling the draft (depth of the camber), twist, and angle of attack to minimize heeling and leeway. There are a lot of components to this but the quickest way to depower the whole sail plan is to be able to induce mast bend (flattening the mainsail and twisting off its upper leech) and tensioning the headstay, (flattening the jib and twisting off its upper leech). That can be coupled with dropping the traveler and tensioning the mainsheet (the combination reducing twist at the same time that the angle of attack is diminished). That works well in quickly adapting to a gust and for short increases in wind speed. But when coupled with increased halyard, mainsheet, vang, and outhaul tensions, this can greatly extend the upper wind range of the boat (especially when used on a boat with lots of stability). To discuss your specific P-39, (set up as a cutter with minimally overlapping headsails), as configured the lower end of the wind range is greatly diminished. Cutters do not do well at the lighter end of the wind range. While the staysail adds luff length and sail area, it diminishes the efficiency of the headsail (I am using that to refer to the sail on the headstay which is your forward most jib) by congesting the slot and reducing air flow, which is very critical deterent in lighter winds. To perform across a wider wind range the headsail needs to be properly shaped a little fuller for the upper end of light air to the lower end of moderate air, but it also needs to be flatter for heavier winds. That change in fullness can be obtained by tensioning the forestay to flatten the sail or allowing the headstay to sag a little adding sail cloth to the leading edge if the sail. But it is still a very difficult battle to control draft. And this is where your options become limited. In order for that to work, the sail cloth needs to be light enough to allow the sail to hold a proper flying shape in light air while being low enough stretch to remain flat in heavy air. This is especially critical on a boat with a sail plan like the P-39 where the jib is the primary source of drive and so needs the proper shape. In your case this is made more critical by the fact that your jib is only 95% and your mainsail foot has been shortened, meaning two very high aspect ratio sails, and high aspect ratio sails, while theoretically more efficient, are also wildly less forgiving, i.e. requiring more attention to trim and course. The high leech loads on high aspect ratio sails mean that there is more stretch which can cause a hook and that can add to heeling. Ease of tacking and sail trim: Lastly, one of the shortcomings of a cutter rig is the need to drag the headsail over the forestay. This makes tacking more difficult since you need to wait for the sail to blow through, or drag it through and that usually means a lot more grinding (even on a small sail). But the cockpit layout on the P-39 makes it harder to sail as well. With the wheel as far forward as it is in the cockpit and the traveler on the cabintop, making quick and precise traveler adjustments are not easy. With the high aspect ratio jib, frequent sheet adjustments are very beneficial, but with the winch behind the wheel it means having to step away from the wheel to make adjustments or face aft. Anything that makes adjustments harder makes sailing shorthanded harder so in that regard, the deck layout of the P-39 also makes it less than ideal. Lastly, I don't know whether you use spinnakers, but with only a 95% jib, some kind of downwind sail would greatly extend the sailing ability of the boat off the wind. The sheer size of a masthead chute will make it much harder to handle and there is less of lee of the mainsail to help drop a chute. An assym that large is harder to fly short-handed and the forestay makes jibing a pole harder. The smaller mainsail also hurts a lot downwind and reaching. Anyway that is the mid-length version. I need to get back to work..... Jeff  

Jeff_H said: Gail, I am a little pressed for time this morning, but it sounds like some good things were done to make the boat a better single-hander, but things like the conversion to a cutter rig and shortening the boom may actually be heading the wrong direction. Here is the mid-length version (if not exactly short). (I can give you the longer more detailed version if we happen to meet at one of the CHESSS Challenges. Also I don't know how familiar you are with terminology so I will define terms in parenthesis at times to make sure you, I and anyone reading thus understand the terms the same way. I apologize in advance if this is unnecessary.) When you talk about a boat that is a good platform for single-handing there are a variety of aspects that are important. From my perspective, if there was single way to describe the collection of attributes that make a good platform for short handed sailing, it is a boat that is easily adaptable to changing conditions and which sail well across a broad range of windspeeds, points of sail, and sea states with a minimum of number of sail changes and reefs and which can change tacks easily. (This last is not as important for a long range cruiser than it is for a coastal cruiser.) This general 'mission statement' can be broken into a number of components as follows: Easily Driven Hull form: The P-39 actually has a pretty easily driven hull form. Its comparatively cylindrical cross sections mean a minimum of wetted surface for its displacement. It also has comparatively straight 'buttock lines' (This refers to the shape of vertical cuts made through the hull parallel to the centerline of the boat. Hull form drawings show 'waterlines' which are horizontal cuts, Sections, which are vertical cuts made through the hull perpendicular to the centerline.) This helps at the light air of the wind range. But the P-39 has a large displacement relative to its water line length which means that it will quickly and disproportionately build drag as the wind speeds increase. That early increase in drag with wind speed increases means that the P-39 will need to be able to carry more sail area than a boat will less drag in this same wind speed, but to do that the boat needs a lot of stability. Stability: In order to stand up to a large enough sail area to sail well across a broad range of wind speeds, points of sail, and sea states, the boat needs to have a lot of stability across a range of heel angles. This is one of the main shortcomings of the P-39. The rounded sections, and narrow hull form, combined with the height at which its ballast is carried due to the comparatively shallow draft of the keel means that these boats do not have much stability relative to their drag. More than anything else it is the P-39's lack of stability relative to its drag that makes this a tough platform for a single-hander. On the other hand, by using the centerboard to balance the rig, this is somewhat mitigated by the fact that these boats will tolerate higher heel angles than a lot of designs which have greater stability relative to their drag. SA/D: Here is where it gets tough. In order to have decent performance in lighter conditions a boat needs to have an actual SA/D (sail area to displacement ratio) somewhere in the SA/D in the mid-20's range or more. The SA/D that I am referring to here is different than the accepted way of measuring SA/D. Normally SA/D is measured and published with the full mainsail and the 100% Foretriangle. The P-39 like most masthead rigged boats of that era has an SA/D around 16.35. (Yours with the shortened mainsail has something less than that). In order to achieve adequate sail area for light to moderate winds, these boats were designed to be sasiled with very large overlapping genoas. In the case of the P-39, the sail plan shows a 170% genoa. But as the overlap of the sail increases the efficiency drops considerably. But there are also some other major downsides to large overlap headsails in that they are much harder to trim, need more frequent adjustment, are harder to tack, and do not adapt well to changing conditions. So, while it may seem counter-intuitive, because of the disadvantages of an ideal single-hander actually should have a standing sailplan (main and 100% foretriangle) somewhere in the low 20's. Of course that is a lot of sail area. In order to effectively use that much sail area, the boat requires a lot of stability and requires a sail plan that can be easily and quickly be depowered (depowered=reducing heel force relative to the required drive force. I am not using that term to mean reefing or furling since furling actually powers up the sails). So even if the SA/D of the standing sail plan of the P-39 could be increased to a number closer to 20-or more, the boat lacks the stability to stand up that much sail in a building breeze and the P-39 rig configuration makes it harder depower. Wind range and Ease of Depowering and tacking: It is the rig configuration that is one of the most critical elements of the P-39 that makes it a less than ideal platform for a single-hander. When we talk about depowering a sailplan, it is all about controlling the draft (depth of the camber), twist, and angle of attack to minimize heeling and leeway. There are a lot of components to this but the quickest way to depower the whole sail plan is to be able to induce mast bend (flattening the mainsail and twisting off its upper leech) and tensioning the headstay, (flattening the jib and twisting off its upper leech). That can be coupled with dropping the traveler and tensioning the mainsheet (reducing twist at the same time that the angle of attack is diminished). That works well in quickly adapting to a gust and for short increases in wind speed. But when coupled with increased halyard, mainsheet, vang, and outhaul tensions, this can greatly extend the upper wind range of the boat (especially when used on a boat with lots of stability). To discuss your specific P-39, set up as a cutter with minimally overlapping headsails, the lower end of the wind range is greatly diminished. Cutter do not do well at the lighter end of the wind range. While the staysail adds luff length and sail area, it diminishes the efficiency of the headsail (I am using that to refer to the sail on the headstay which is your forward most jib) by congesting the slot and reducing air flow which is very critical in lighter winds. While the headsail needs to be properly shaped a little fuller for the upper end of light air and lower end of moderate air, It needs to be flatter for heavier winds. That change in fullness can be obtained by tensioning or allowing the headstay to sag a little But it is still a very difficult battle to control draft. But this is where your options become limited. In order for that to work, the sail cloth needs to be light enough to allow the sail to hold a proper flying shape in light air while being low enough stretch to remain flat in heavy air. This is especially critical on a boat with a sail plan like the P-39 where the jib is the primary source of drive and so needs the proper shape. In your case this is made more critical by the fact that your jib is only 95% and your mainsail foot has been shortened, meaning two very high aspect ratio sails, and high aspect ratio sails, while theoretically more efficient, are also wildly less forgiving, i.e. requiring more attention to trim and course. Ease of tacking and sail trim: Lastly, one of the shortcomings of a cutter rig is the need to drag the headsail over the forestay. This makes tacking more difficult since you need to wait for the sail to blow through, or drag it through and that usually means a lot more grinding (even on a small sail). But the cockpit layout on the P-39 makes it harder to sail as well. With the wheel as far forward as it is in the cockpit and the traveler on the cabintop, making quick and precise traveler adjustments are not easy. With the high aspect ratio jib, frequent sheet adjustments are very beneficial, but with the winch behind the wheel it means having to step away from the wheel to make adjustments or face aft. Anything that makes adjustments hard makes sailing shorthanded harder so in that regard, the deck layout of the P-39 also makes it less than ideal. Lastly, I don't know whether you use spinnakers, but with only a 95% jib, some kind of downwind sail would greatly extend the sailing ability of the boat off the wind. The sheer size of a masthead chute will make it much harder to handle and there is less of lee of the mainsail to help drop a chute. An assym that large is harder to fly short-handed and the forestay makes jibing a pole much harder. The smaller mainsail also hurts a lot downwind and reaching. Anyway that is the mid-length version. I need to get back to work..... Jeff Click to expand...

The CHESSS schedule is in the upper right corner of the web page and is updated fairly frequently: www.chbaysss.org . Right now, only races are shown. We are planning another non-racing, experience builder for the July 23rd weekend, I believe.  

I had a 1968 Pearson 35 from 1978 to 1991. I single handed it in and out of harbor and in San Francisco bay many times. Was especially easy after installation of a monitor wind vane. Great boat; solid, and faster than mot 35' at the time.  

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Aside from the original thread post being from years ago, I have to challege the statement these are fast boats. Their PHRF ratings of 177 make them on the slower side. We have a number P 35 in our racing fleet. They are rarely in front. For example our boat Haleakula a C&C 35 MKIII.conservative PHRF RATED AT 117 - 127. PHRF New England - Handicapping - Base Handicaps  

Pearson35.com back up. I know it's been a long time.  

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30-05-2012, 10:38  
. But is this sailboat easy to handle? as an early '80 IOR design, over powered? downwind? etc. etc.

Regards, CeesH  
02-09-2012, 15:08  
Boat: Pearson 40
40 and done a bunch of sailing on her as well as cuising all sorts of .

It is a great but not very popular because of the flush mostly - not appealing to most cruisers looking for a .

The boat very well and is easy to singlehand especially if your is forward - access to line controls is easy

Let me know if you have any other questions or you can pm me also

Regards
Ovi
02-09-2012, 15:18  
Boat: 1976 Sabre 28-2
. Something that can be a problem if gets in. Any complaints with yours and is the coring below the line?? Sure are some listed at pretty low prices. Look like a bargain especially if you need .
02-09-2012, 15:18  
Boat: Finnsailer 38
makes for some odd handling downwind. According to one friend you couldn't leave the for a second when downwind as it was unpredictable. However, on the they were swift sailors. They tended to be raced and with a full crew would be good. Not sure how a or would considering the squirreliness downwind. A friend did very well in the Marblehead to Halifx . I personally love the flush configuration. There are lots of good sea berths and I find the feels very open and spacious. Makes working on deck very easy too. Pearsons tend to be solidly built production , but I'm pretty sure there is lots of balsa to look into on an older boat.
"Go small, Go simple, Go now"
02-09-2012, 16:16  
Boat: Pearson 40
to my knowledge have had any issues with the coring, ours included. , now TPI, have a good reputation for good glasswork - they pioneered a lot of techniques over the years and not just in boats.

Regarding the squireliness, the original was swept aft much, hence more feel but also more needed to steer the boat on a deep angle in medium to heavy air.This is especially true with large headsails and spinnakers.

A Mark2 addresses this problem and the boat is much tamer ( I have a picture of the new rudder in my gallery) - I believe faster also. Deep angles well with the Cb up as there is less wetted area - the boat fast, much like the P35 with the CB up, although the P35 does have a little stub (to the best of my remembrance).

Upwind, the boat steers itself when the sails are balanced - no real need for an . We do use our , hence upwind when conditions are a bit bouncy though.

Deck coring is typical of many other boats (including the P35) and there are potential problems if is not properly bedded/sealed down.

Prices for the boats are Really reasonable, especially if one is quite handy to perform repair/upgrades him/herself.

Any other comments/questions I would be happy to answer to the best of my knowledge.

Cheers
Ovi
02-09-2012, 21:18  
from , RI and almost a year in the we've done a lot of sailing on her.
It is as well built as any plastic boat I've ever sailed and a whole lot faster than I'd expected. An exceptional cruising boat.
The board is a godsend in a rolly anchorage, not to mention making her so much more comfortable when sailing.
Good luck & good sailing.
21-07-2020, 12:14  
Boat: Pearson 40
, the shaft starts vibrating after a while. Switching to neutral then back to forward (or reverse) fixes the problem for the next 10 to 30 min.
I dove and the prop shaft can move 1/8 in left and right where the cutless bearings are.

I changed them about 7 years ago and was not expecting them to be worn already.

Is anyone has an idea how long they last?

I am going to pull out of the water next week and replace them. I don't have much time to do it and with Covid-19 situation I am afraid to not found a spare cutless bearing easily.
But I can't find the invoice of the one I bought 7 years ago. It would be nice if I could buy one online and ship it quickly before. But I don't the size.

Is anyone who have an experience replacing them can tell me what size I should buy? I would appreciate.
Thanks.
21-07-2020, 12:39  
- Elmore Leonard








21-07-2020, 13:34  
Boat: Morgan Moorings 50
04-12-2020, 08:03  
Boat: S-2 9.2cc
66 I believe. Really like it, had it hauled again this week. Had to replace prop boot. There has to be a better way than what was performed on this, but is working for now, so we will see. Other mark against our boat is that I need to look at the mark 11 rudder. This one is unbalanced and always needs to be watched. Auto pilot is fine, but , I don’t know about that. Really hoping someone has better ideas on prop boot(before packing gland) as I ain’t real happy.
20-07-2022, 07:31  
handle? as an early '80 IOR design, over powered? downwind? etc. etc.

Regards, CeesH
20-07-2022, 15:14  
Boat: Pearson 40
, even in large waves, the boat handles excellent . Since there is no , there is much less friction, enhanced speed without the out-of-control surfing.
21-07-2022, 06:26  
15-02-2023, 07:12  
, even in large waves, the boat handles excellent . Since there is no keel, there is much less friction, enhanced speed without the out-of-control surfing.
15-02-2023, 07:23  
Boat: Pearson 40
 
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looking for info on Pearson 39-2 centerboard

  • Thread starter lzemlin
  • Start date Aug 9, 2009
  • Brand-Specific Forums

Hello. I am looking for any and all info, pros, cons, etc. on the Pearson 39-2 centerboard. We are contemplating purchasing a 1986 model- the first year they were made. We would like a boat that we could live aboard and cruise the Bahamas and Carribean. Thanks!  

NYSail

Great boat! I have a 36-2 which is a similar model, but 3 feet shorter. Friend of mine has a 1987 39-2 and he loves it...sails great and has good room.  

Ariel

Here is more data on the P39-2: http://www.pearsoninfo.net/39-2/39-2.htm Note the review by Bob Perry. Dave s/v ARIEL  

P39-2 Info Any more owners with P39-2 details for a potential buyer? How does the K/CB version handle in heavy air? How much air before you reef? Any typical problems with hull delaminations, bubbles on the hull, or tank problems. What is the typical fuel usage per hour for the Westerbeke's? Are they comfortable for cruising, 2 weeks, 2 months, a year?? Thanks  

Re: P39-2 Info There is a 1987 P39-2 for sale in my harbor in Mt. Sinai New York on Long Island. Great boat! If you want to sail on it and are local I am sure he would take you out....  

ablegen

Re: P39-2 Info Thanks NYSail. I'm in Maine, and a bit far to NY at this point, but I'll keep it in mind as I learn more about the boat.  

lzemlin said: Hello. I am looking for any and all info, pros, cons, etc. on the Pearson 39-2 centerboard. We are contemplating purchasing a 1986 model- the first year they were made. We would like a boat that we could live aboard and cruise the Bahamas and Carribean. Thanks! Click to expand

Steve, Being a new owner, you may be interested in some of the things we have done to our P36-2. The boats are very much alike so what works on one, works on the other. http://www.chesapeakesailing.org/project1/project1.html If you have any questions just ask. Where are you berthed in Solomans? We stop at Zanhiesers every time we sail through. If you ever sail north to Rock Hall, give us a shout. We are at The Sailing Emporum when we are not out cruising. Dave s/v ARIEL  

I've owned my 39-2 for 12 years, changed out most systems, solid boat. Ariel - have you done any off shore sailing in yours?  

Kflannery, If by off shore you mean coastal then yes. We have sailed Ariel from Annapolis to Galveston, Tx and back via the Keys and the Bahamas, to Maine and back twice and visited Newport four times. Sorry we did not meet up. We live on Ariel for about six months each year, winter her in Rock Hall, MD and return home to Houston each winter. This has been going on for the past twelve years. This summer we will stay in Chesapeake Bay and sail (motor) to Washington, DC for awhile. If you, or any other Pearson owners, are in the area give a shout. We always have ample red and white wine on board. Dave  

Kflannery said: I've owned my 39-2 for 12 years, changed out most systems, solid boat. Ariel - have you done any off shore sailing in yours? Click to expand
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Fireball, 16', 1973

Originally designed by Peter Milne in 1962, the Fireball is a one-design high-performance sailing dinghy.

The Fireball is sailed by a crew of two, and sports a single trapeze, symmetric spinnaker, centerboard and chined hull.

The boat planes in as little as eight knots of wind and is easily controlled past 35 knots.

Since the trapeze and sails require skillful adjustment rather than plain strength and can be tuned for different sailor weights, the boat lends itself to sailing and racing that is very inclusive with respect to age and gender.

It's an exciting boat to sail.

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  4. 10-GALLEY

  5. 12-SALON- Restoration of a Pearson 323 Classic Sailboat

  6. New Boat: Precision 16 sailing dinghy!

COMMENTS

  1. Pearson 35

    In 1964 another relatively beamy centerboard yawl, a Pearson Invicta, won again. It was the beginnings of an era of shallow wide boats that not only sailed through a gaping loophole in the popular rating rule of their day but also offered interior space unavailable in the typically narrower, deeper boats that preceeded them. Pearson 35 Specs

  2. PEARSON 35

    From 1968-1982 the PEARSON 35 remained relatively unchanged and had the longest production run of any other Pearson model. Diesel power available as an option as was a yawl rig. Boats were delivered with a number of different engines including those from Farymann, Westerbeke, and Yanmar. Not the same as a much later PEARSON 35 […]

  3. Pearson 35

    Blue Water Boats (March 2014 Update) Shaw's Pearson 35 has 7′ 6″ centerboard and 3′ 9″ full keel arrangement with connected rudder. She draws inspiration from the CCA rules of the day with her long overhangs, graceful sheer, and modest freeboard, and narrow beam by today's standards.

  4. Pearson boats for sale

    Pearson. Pearson is a yacht manufacturer that currently has 82 yachts for sale on YachtWorld, including 3 new vessels and 79 used yachts, listed by experienced boat and yacht brokers mainly in the following countries: United States, Canada, Spain, Mexico and Malaysia. The selection of models featured on YachtWorld spans a spectrum of sizes and ...

  5. Restoring a classic Pearson 35 sailboat

    Designed by Bill Shaw, the Pearson 35 is a 35-foot (10.7 meter) mast-head sloop with a water-length of 25 feet. A full keel and displacement of 13000 lbs (6 metric tons) means the Pearson 35 was designed conservatively by today's standards, making for a safe and easy-to-handle boat. Based on the CCA design rules of the day, the Pearson 35 has ...

  6. Pearson 34 Center Board boats for sale

    Pearson 34 Center Board boats for sale. Save Search. Clear Filter Make / Model: Pearson - 34 Center Board. Location. By Radius. By Country. country-all. All Countries. Country-US. United States. All. All 25 miles 50 miles 100 miles 200 miles 300 miles 500 miles 1000 miles 2000 miles 5000 miles. from your location. Condition. All. New. Used ...

  7. 1987 Pearson 39 Centerboard Sloop

    The Pearson 39 is Bill Shaw's finest cruiser/racer design from the bow water entry profile and wide beam, that carries back to the stern, to the clean decks not seen on other yachts of this era. There is plenty of interior space in this two private cabin, two head version. Eagle Wings is comfortable cruising Florid's West Coast waters and the ...

  8. Pearson 35 Used Boat Review

    In all, slightly more than 500 Pearson 35s were produced. Pearson's in-house designer Bill Shaw designed the P35 as a cruiser/racer to replace the company's somewhat dated Alberg 35 model. When introduced in 1968, company literature promoted "a sleek keel/centerboard hull gives this new design excellent racing potential".

  9. Pearson 35

    Pearson 35 is a 35′ 0″ / 10.7 m monohull sailboat designed by William Shaw and built by Pearson Yachts between 1968 and 1982. Great choice! Your favorites are temporarily saved for this session. ... Shaw's Pearson 35 has 7′ 6″ centerboard and 3′ 9″ full keel arrangement with connected rudder. She draws inspiration from the CCA ...

  10. 35' Pearson 35 Centerboard Sloop-1981-Sodus Point-100659498

    Brokers' Comments: The Pearson 35 is a classic Bill Shaw design with attractive lines and a long shoal keel with attached protected rudder. The keel/centerboard hull design with a draft of only 3'9" with board up provides for go anywhere capability, while the 7'6" board-down draft allows the boat to go upwind properly where other fixed-keel ...

  11. 34' PEARSON CENTERBOARD/SHOAL DRAFT

    11'5'. 3'10'. Maryland. $16,000. Description: Spacious interior W/plenty of floor space to move around. The PEARSON 34 has retained its value as a result of superior building, solid reputation, & devoted owner base. LINDA GAYLE is a great value for the sailor who wants a great boat & can put her back into proper commission.

  12. Pearson 35 Centerboard Boats for sale

    1975 Pearson 35 While Bill Shaw designed many popular and successful boats, the Pearson 35 was his best. In production from 1968 untill 1982, with over 500 built says volumes about the boats appeal. Still popular today, the 35 is one of the best values on the market. The 35's centerboard allows for more harbors and gunk-holes.

  13. 1985 Pearson 34 Center Board, Norfolk Virginia

    SV Brittney, Pearson 34. SV Brittany is a turnkey sail boat ready for to help you make your sailing dreams a reality. This boat has been well maintained and is ready to leave the dock. She is the perfect cruiser for the Chesapeake Bay and is a great club racer with a nice race record! With the center board up she draws 3 feet 10 inches and when ...

  14. Singlehanding Pearson 35 Centerboard

    12526 posts · Joined 2000. #2 · Jul 27, 2009. The Pearson 35's were an older CCA era design. They sail pretty will for a boat of that era, but would be a mixed bag for cruising the Chesapeake Bay. Their shallow draft with the board up would allow them to get into many of the shallower anchorages, creeks and rivers.

  15. Pearson 34 boats for sale

    Find Pearson 34 boats for sale in your area & across the world on YachtWorld. Offering the best selection of Pearson boats to choose from.

  16. Pearson P-40 Centerboard

    Images: 7. Re: Pearson P-40 Centerboard. Hi We have a Pearson 40 and done a bunch of sailing on her as well as cuising all sorts of weather. It is a great boat but not very popular because of the flush deck mostly - not appealing to most cruisers looking for a boat. The boat sails very well and is easy to singlehand especially if your wheel is ...

  17. looking for info on Pearson 39-2 centerboard

    Pearson 1987 39-2 Solomons, MD. Apr 20, 2010. #7. lzemlin said: Hello. I am looking for any and all info, pros, cons, etc. on the Pearson 39-2 centerboard. We are contemplating purchasing a 1986 model- the first year they were made. We would like a boat that we could live aboard and cruise the Bahamas and Carribean. Thanks!

  18. Used 1985 Pearson 34 Center Board, 23518 Norfolk

    Check out this Used 1985 Pearson 34 Center Board for sale in Norfolk, VA 23518. View this Sloop and other Sail boats on boattrader.com

  19. Venture 24, 1969, Redwood City, California, sailboat for sale from

    Go to Sailing Texas classifieds for current sailboats for sale . Venture 24, 1969 Boat located in Redwood City, CA Owners located in Denver, CO Boat and motor for $1,250. Updated loose-footed, fully battened mainsail Two jibs Sails are in good to very good shape Some recent rigging updates including oversized CB winch and cable and some running ...

  20. Fireball, 16', 1973, Los Altos, California sailboat for sale

    Go to Sailing Texas classifieds for current sailboats for sale . Fireball, 16', 1973 Originally designed by Peter Milne in 1962, the Fireball is a one-design high-performance sailing dinghy. The Fireball is sailed by a crew of two, and sports a single trapeze, symmetric spinnaker, centerboard and chined hull.

  21. Downloads

    Pearson Electronics 4009 Transport Street Palo Alto, CA 94303 (650) 494-6444 [email protected]. HOME. THE COMPANY - About Us - Career Opportunities. PRODUCTS - Wide-Band Current Monitors - Clamp On Current Monitors - Custom Current Monitors - Capacitive Voltage Dividers - High Voltage Pulse Transformers

  22. Scrap Happy Sailboats , , Hoffman California Fabrics

    HOFFMAN CALIFORNIA FABRICS 25792 Obrero Drive Mission Viejo, CA 92691 RETAIL & SPECIALTY MANUFACTURERS (800) 547-0100 Fax: (949) 770-4022